hex0rz

Torque converter?????

Yeah, thats copper anti-seize. I use the same stuff, but I don't think copper is required. You could use regular anti-seize and be fine, I'm sure. Its just what the store I was at had at the time.Its been about 6 months since I have done my front-end work like you ae doing. But now that I seen your picture, the reason why you cant remove the rotor from the hub, is cause its sammiched between the studs and hub.If you can't be 100% certain that the seals are clean, there is not much else you can do except opening up the CAD and diff. to see the seals. Your just gonna have to gamble here when you put the shafts back in...I would not replace your u-joints unless you have been getting any binding, clunking while driving or putting into gear. If the joint does not have side to side play, then they are fine.As far as the shield/shim, I cannot say. I do not think it would be critical to have the shim, but like I said, I dunno. It may be there for taking up play when tightening everything down, or its just whats needed to have the bare minimum for clearance with the spindle and brake shield. Its OEM, so I would think its important.MAN! You got a lot of rust!Flagmanruss, I have not heard of any upgrades or mods, that can be done for these trucks to make it easier. Then again, I'm not worried about it. Just a little extra manual labor...Other then that jamman, your on your way to finishing this project! Your doing just fine, and I'm confident it will go together... Remember to heed my forewarnings about things. Also, make sure to put axle grease on the splines of the axle shaft and axle grease on the splines that go into the hub.

Is yout vp44 going out? How about your injectors? What about valve lash clearances? Are you adding 2-stroke oil to your fuel? Are you purchasing fuel from places that continually deliver quality fuel? What about the fuel composition? Is it no. 1 or no. 2? TONS of variables that you have to take into account...

You need to double check the links to your pics... some were working and others were not.Suggestion... ANYTIME you replace something on one side, you always replace it on the other side.I'll give further advice once the pics work...

YIKES! You need a young whipper snapper to boss around...

There is more to MPG's than just some add-ons. Reducing your weight if possible and keeping out of the pedal is a big factor, yes. But you have alot of other things to think of as well. What is the overall condition of the truck in? Are your moving parts worn down and what about the condition of your lubricants? Tire size and wear? Truck profile size? Condition of the engine performance? Anything that can drag you down in the wind, anything that can slow you down through friction, anything that can cause poor engine performance, anything that is unnecessary like extra fuel burned that gives no gains. The less fuel you can use and the further you can travel, the better mpgs. Coast to stop lights, time them just right so you can hit each one as they turn green. Take advantage of hills, slowly go up, and coast down. All this should be real easy to do with a manual. ...I wish I had a manual... :banghead:

Well, keep us posted on your progress! I wanna know how it pans out for you.. ^This is a dana 44, but its similar to the dana 60 in this respect. This ought to help when installing, as it is visual instead of my words. I have used POR15 on my mazda lowrider truck when I was younger. It does fade fairly quickly if you do not topcoat it. Although, when you pre-treat the metal and coat it with the POR15, it works great. Stuff coats really well, and a quart can can go a long ways! I totally forgot about the POR15. Its some spendy stuff. You could always go with rubberized undercoating, too. That comes in a spray can, and I can vouch its effective. This would offer the most resistance to the elements, like rocks, etc. As for the diff. in between the years of the truck, I have no clue. You would think that you could separate the rotor from the hub without problem. But, it appears that the studs hold the hub and rotor together? I know when I had my studs put back in by a local shop, they put them in with the hub and rotor together and the rotor did not want to separate from the hub after.

What controls the engine? Vp44 trucks have what computers? Just asking out of curiousity, cause I do not know how many things there are for them that control the truck...

Dripley, I hope I did not give you the impression I was wanting to push you out of the thread. That was not my intention at all. On another note, my methods to doing this are NOT the only way to approach it. There are tons of ways to go about doing this same repair. I only did what I found worked. I'm only sharing that information about what worked, because I experienced it. I will post up some visual aids, etc. so I can help give you a bigger picture of your repair. As far as the diff seals go, when you put this all back together and you start having diff fluid leaking from the tubes, then you will need to replace them. But you will have to give it some time first before you consider them for replacement. As some of the fluid can be pooled in the tubes for a while giving you the impression the need replacing. If it turns out you need to replace them, I can help you then... For now, just stick to seeing if you have dirt and debris on them. Inserting the axles back in very gently... --- Update to the previous post... Here is a little advice I gave a guy about the front diff. seals: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5387-Front-hub-replacement-axle-housing-seal?p=49571#post49571 Here is a couple videos of what dis-assembly of the front hubs and rotors are like. Most of it will apply to you. Some of it is a little different... ***Remember! DO NOT put anti-seize on the lug studs! ALSO, put loctite on the brake caliper bolts. Make sure to TORQUE ALL BOLTS to spec!*** I can give you torque numbers if needed...

Yes, the axle nut, cotter pin, washer need to come off the axle shaft in order to remove the axle from the assembly. Check out this link: http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=12081.0

I dunno if a gear puller or jaw tool is applicable here... I know I did atleast not have to use one.If you do paint it, I would go with Rustoleum. They have all sorts of diff. applications. Its been a while since I have had to use them. So take a gander and see what product they offer that will match you best. They have some acid etch rust preventative paint as well. May help you, as the acid etch reacts with the rust and turns to zinc, I believe...If you already have the cotter pin and axle nut off, the only thing thats holding it together is the corrosion. Penetrating oil may do SOME good, but I do not feel its going to be nearly enough to do the job. Its a beast to free up. Reading here, in my Chiltons manual, it says WORD FOR WORD:Step 6. Back the hub/bearing mounting bolts off 1/4 in. each.Step 7. Tap the bolts with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle.Step 8. Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts and then the hub/bearing.ALTHOUGH, this may not be good enough for you as yours seems so corroded.Dripley, its HEX0RZ! Also, its Acetylene! :thumbup2:When I removed the hub assembly, I had to remove the lug studs to seperate the hubs and rotor. You are gonna have to remove the lug studs to seperate the rotor from the hub bearing. This is not necessary to remove the axle from the assembly.Because you already have the whole thing out, I would put the end of the axle shaft on a piece of wood and take a sledge to the rotor. Have someone balance the axle on the wood and you give 'er hell with the BFH! Your gonna have to make the piece of wood small enough to fit inside the area where the axle end is as it is recessed in the hole. Put it on a soft area like grass or something. If anything moves when you do it, you won't risk damaging anything else. Its gonna take a little more force if its on soft ground though.Once its all freed up, take emery cloth to all the contact areas to smooth things back out and then hit it with anti-seize.

Hey, your doing just fine. You did not screw anything up. My truck is set up exactly like yours. Although, where the heck are you? Your setup is so rusty! I would clean all that up with a wire wheel on a drill or grinder then hit it with some paint. I take it your trying to put new pads on and put new rotors on... You already have the assembly out. This is normal for the axle to follow with the hub assembly. Because you were not aware of it coming out, you MAY have to replace your seals. Depending on whether or not they have been changed recently and/or the rubber on the seal has been compromised. You need to take a look down the axle tube and look at the seal and see if you have any dirt/debris on the seal. If you put the axle back in with the seal dirty, you will compromise the seal. As for getting the axle seperated from the hub assembly, you need to take off the grease cap on the front, and remove the cotter pin and axle nut. Then you need to somehow mechanically seperate the axle from the hub assembly. Reason I say this is because if you have never had it serviced nor have ever had ANTI-SEIZE applied, the two are going to be rusted and seized together. What I have done is put the hub assembly back on to the spindle. But the bolts in to secure it. But only have the bolts loose a little. Hit the end of the axle spindle to free it from the hub. IF you are replacing the rotor, hit the rotor with a sledge hammer. ANYTHING that you are not replacing, treat as if it were GOLD. You do not want to hit parts that your are not willing to replace or damage. IF you cannot free the assembly, you are gonna need to take it to a shop and have them put it on an arbor press. When you go to re-install all the new stuff, APPLY ANTI-SIEZE! Lemme know if you need help...

Isaiah 64:6 "All of us have become like one who is unclean, and all our righteous acts are like filthy rags; we all shrivel up like a leaf, and like the wind our sins sweep us away." Romans 3:10-18 10 As it is written: “There is no one righteous, not even one; 11 there is no one who understands; there is no one who seeks God. 12 All have turned away, they have together become worthless; there is no one who does good, not even one.”[b] 13 “Their throats are open graves; their tongues practice deceit.”[c] “The poison of vipers is on their lips.”[d] 14 “Their mouths are full of cursing and bitterness.”[e] 15 “Their feet are swift to shed blood; 16 ruin and misery mark their ways, 17 and the way of peace they do not know.”[f] 18 “There is no fear of God before their eyes.”[g] http://youtu.be/Fs7i_ckEHVA You see, NONE of us are better than anyone else. We are all the same. It is not based on whoever lives the most "right" in mans eyes life.

I was talking to a coworker from my last employer, about 9/11. I alluded to the idea that it was somewhat of an inside job. He has anger issues, and he almost popped a vein on me on the work floor. Then he proceeded to as me if I was one of those prison planet nutcases. I told him that I had never heard of them. At the time I never did. He basically aroused my curiousity about the site. Ever since then, I occassionally visit their site. Flagmanruss, I sometimes feel the US needs to intervene on some issues. I do not like to think of us as a global police force, but I do think that we as a nation are obligated to do something based on our founding principles. We give aide to countries after we bomb them, we give aide to countries because they are in need of help. I also think that because Africa lacks any govt. structure, we should be giving aide to the oppressed. Militarily, IMO. If a people cannot defend themselves, and are being massacred by tyrants, I think we ought to fight and defend the innocent. ...but that has more of my christian background speaking than our national policies.

Alot of people look at prisonplanet and then say your a nutcase! They will look at you like a conspiracy theorist type of person. Can't be taken seriously type of thing....

Yea buddy! Thats a successful rescue!One thing I have noticed. People start panicing when they become lost and isolated. Reasoning and logic go straight out the window.The man should have never taken an alternative trail back to camp and also lose his partner. Always travel in pairs! Once you realize your lost, you stay put! Start thinking about the time and weather. Then start making shelter and fire. Go low for water. Look for ways to make it potable... etc, etc.The guy broke all the rules in the book of survival. Especially the ways to increase your chances of being found by a rescue team......I know, preaching to the choir.

Uh oh, prison planet videos, eh?My rearend would have been paddled for doing that...

Ugh.. that why I try and do all the work myself! I avoid taking my truck to the shops as much as possible!

Godspeed, Mike! I pray the situation will come out for better than worse! Nasty time to be getting lost in the mountains!

Thank you, for all the effort your family has put in sacrificing so much in the name of others. I totally agree with you on all of whats said....I was kinda of merely annoyed by the fact that the media is portraying this as an incident that has recently occured and that it has not gone on very long. Its amazing these guys have gotten away with what they have for so long!Its a real shame that the US has not stepped in a long time ago. Then again, any other nation as well. I agree that all the nations need to help out with this. But they view it as SSDD...

So, have you guys been one of the few aware of the recent showing of an organization shedding light on the LRA in Africa? Joseph Kony, the warlord of the LRA. The MSM has been covering the topic on it, and exposing an organization call, "Invisible Children". Check out this link of a topic I posted on another person, fighting the good fight against KONY and the LRA! http://fnforum.net/forums/freestyle-room/26781-something-you-may-appreciate.html#post279643

..what the two small dogs in your avatar? ALL hardwood is going to take time to season. Denser wood does not allow the water to escape the wood quickly. But when its dry, its worth the wait! GOOD JOB! Way to go on not getting a catalytic stove! Some would beg to differ, and argue with me about it being better. Honestly though, when you have to spend upwards of $400 for a new catalytic converter for your stove every 4 or so years, it just is NOT worth it! Sure, it may be more inefficient, but you don't have to worry about your stove "breaking down" on you when you NEED it! There is nothing simpler and more warming to my spirit than the security of a nice, roaring fire! Now, from some other forums I have joined, I will show you a picture of how I think you ought to be stacking your wood! You should stack all your wood on pallets. Then, stack them in a criss-crossing manner for strength and keep it from falling over. Stacking the pieces in like a puzzle to make a good tight fit. After, cover the top with a tarp so the weather stays out. The sides will see air circulation and the suns heat to allow the wood to dry. The science behind it is that the shorter you cut your firewood the quicker it dries, if you do it naturally. The cells within the wood harbor the water. The shorter the distance they have to travel out of the wood the quicker it dries. Exposed ends to the wood is the key. Don't be fooled into thinking anything else. It does not matter if the bark is on it or not. Fortunately for me, when I was selling firewood, I could sell a cord of Fir/Birch/Tamarack in less than 6 months. Its all in the method of stacking for drying. No, I never did rip anyone off. I have a moisture meter to prove its seasoned at 12% MC.

Yes, the supplied fitting from AD for their quick connect will thread into the same hole the hardline uses to feed fuel to the filter housing. Dripley, thanks for the link to vulcans kit. I was gonna make my own, but this looks good too. Is the side on the fitting provided able to accept a needle-valve?

I personally have kept my OEM housing. I gain a little extra filtration and the use of the pre-heater. Running the line is perfectly fine and thats how we are told to do it. If you live in the colder climated areas, keeping the housinf for the pre-heat might not be a bad idea... You would need to get a line kit made up for the distance between the vp44 and housing though. I have not done that yet, myself.