hex0rz

Nice! I had an idea to build one along the lines like yours. I will probably add some tabs in the front for some clevices though. I cannot fathom why in the ever-cotton-pickin world, dodge did not add tow hooks in the front! :banghead:So, did you use a 220 welder or 110?

I've got DAP 75hp sticks. I bought the injectors first, paid for the core and then sent them in after I was done replacing them. Cost more money initially, but I did not have much down time. But you get your core deposit back anyways.Their the cheapest people to go through and they and also other people convinced me they were good enough to go through.They gave me an extra 2+ mpg increase as was stated and she gets up and goes when I need her to! A little smoke on startup and sometimes a little finnicky in the cold, but other then that, they perform like they should!Its whatever route you wanna take with them.. Your probably gonna be on the right side in the end anyways!

Alright, been a looooong time since I have had to diagnose a fan clutch. Can't remember how to tell if its operating properly...

What is included in this hinge pin kit?

It is one of the FEW holidays I consider to be an important part of my life. Although, I do not get to thank many people, I do so when I can. I take my moment and meditate on the fact of how so much was sacrificed, for me. So, to take a moment here and compose this thread, for my fellow men, who give and gave so much, heres to you! Thank you men/women for serving this great country and defending what is so fragile now. Giving me the ability to live life another day in less fear than what the world lives in. I will always continue and be sure to carry on the most important thing that you fought for: Our Constitution and Bill of Rights! John 15:13 "Greater love has no one than this, that he lay down his life for his friends." So, thank you!

Thanks for the heads up, bro! I heard of them before on other threads but did not realize there really is not anyone else out there.I called O'reilly's and they do not even carry a reseal kit. Just teh pump, at $400!!!!! :ahhh:I ordered one, hopefully, I will see it this week and not next week, considering its a holiday.

Alright, so me being an ex-GMC/Chevy owner, I was all too wary of how Dodge went about doing their door hinges and pins. So far, they seem to be a pretty stout setup. Although, I have one qualm about their system. You can;t service them! Their pins are pressed on the ends. I have no idea how I could ever seperate the door from the hinges unless I were to destroy the pins. How I could ever get pins to work again is an idea I can't wrap my head around.My reason for getting on the soap box is because the bushing for the door limiter arm is shot to the point that my door creaks upon opening and closing. Does anyone know how to remedy this and/or has someone come out with an "invention" to fix this problem?

Think about it. Really, some poor joe shmo spends hours on trying to fix a simple problem that occurs often. Everyone goes for the band-aid route because no one can or is either willing to spend the time to diagnose the problem.Company's take advantage of you and try and sell you a noise isolator for $25 to fix a TC hunting problem. But in all reality, it is something that lies in the alt. Then not very long later, lo and behold, the problem comes back. $25 down the drain... :banghead:

I will be sure to take pictures of the area when I start working on the truck, for more feedback. I did check the rear brakes and the rear slave cylinders need replaced or rebuilt. One side was leaking. I know that can contribute to a spongy pedal.On the other hand, I noticed that when cold and when I apply the brakes the first time driving of the day, the brake can be reeeal touchy. Barely have to apply any pressure and she will wanna stop in a hurry.

Well, I got a 5" exhaust tip. Maybe I already have a fart can. Does not sound real gassy though.

Well, thats interesting. You would think that they would have used the vacuum pump with a brake booster instead of power steering fluid with a hydroboost.Okay, so I believe I got a leak somewhere on this unit. Does a "rebuild" just entail new seals or is there other parts with it?How do I diagnose if its functioning properly? I read a little that if my brake pedal is spongy and/or takes more foot pressure to stop than usual, the unit can be going bad.I just need to know what is entailed in a seal kit compared to a rebuild and/or if I need to by a new unit?...i know, asking alot of questions!Okay, two more questions!1. Is it easy to remove from the bay without having to remove much or do I really have to open it up to get it out?2. Would I be better off going through cummins for a seal kit than through an o'reilly's or napa? Just wondering if there tolerances are not on par like they ought to be.

Mike, these are just the sort of things that have made you a legendary man. One with high reputation and well known for shining light into the obscure!

Okay, since diesel engines do not create vacuum unlike the gasoline engine, I need to gain a full understanding of how this works.I believe my system needs a lookin' at. I got a leak going on at the vacuum pump, PS area. It looks like one of the pieces on the unit uses crankcase oil to lubricate as well?Does the powersteering fluid get used in the hydroboost?....does not compute. I need to know what seal or rebuild kits to get fix this mumbo jumbo.

...with all that money you coulda got yourself a good fuel preperation system instead.

Well, I would not necessarily say its a gremlin. If your turbo is funtioning and fully operational, I do not see a problem. It might the same thing I try and describe to the wife. She gets all skittish when riding in the truck cause she still is not used to hearing all the different noises it makes. The only thing I can narrow it down to is harmonics. There is a sweet spot so to speak with everything. Spooling the turbo up and keeping it in that sweet spot can cause a paculiar noise. Its either that, or you may have some play in the shaft and/or you need to check the bearings.

If it gets rock chips, then you would have to peel it and redo it, right? Just seems like a waste of time to me... Spray it with a bedliner and be done with it!

Thats pretty sweet! I dunno if mine will be that cheap. Material cost has gone up alot.... I would like to get some 1/4" plate cut on a CNC then do some 2" tube and diamond plate. Then hit it all with a bedliner of some sort.

Thanks for the heads up, Mike!Just getting a new tranny and converter in recently and then having to deal with a lockup like this would cause me to flail around on the ground crying like a little schoolgirl thinking I got shafted.If the day ever comes, it will be the first thing I check!

Something along these lines: http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff300/lwe772002/PDR_0564-1.jpg But I want to still be able to access the engine bay and climb up on it and can sit. Also have accomodations for a winch. Probably put in some tow hooks or do some tabs that will take clevices. OR maybe just get a winch setup that is on a hitch so I could put the winch on front or back and just put a receiver in the front. ..... oooooOOOhhh the possibilities!

... I thought bedliner spray would be a better alternative?

Why? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7uT4dTMUEA What purpose does it serve?

Yea, I know what you mean. I'm usually a sucker though. If I see a good handful of people like that on CF who are sold on the product and especially had first hand experience with it, I usually take it as a good judge of the product.I rarely have ever talked to anyone about the line-x and how durable it was. I just went in to a line-x place and took a looky loo at it.

I pretty much have a stock truck as well. I make maybe around 300hp. What I recommended you was not something that was overkill. I personally own a AD2 165. I did not recommend a 165 to you. I recommended a 100gph series. Like I told you, the fuel is the life of the truck. I recommended the AD2 100 because it has the filters that are needed to make the fuel like it should be for the vp. Go ahead and do your raptor pump. There is no harm in discussing this. I feel that the raptor pump is inadequate for the fuel system though. Dodge really screwed the pooch when it came to this. If you are going to continue to run the raptor pump, invest in a filter block so you can run an Air/water seperator and an extra filter. If you think about it, running just the raptor is going to take a toll on your vp over time. It may not fail in a year, or a decade, but I guarantee it will someday. The raptor itself allows the air, water and debris to run through the vp. I would much rather run a setup that needs an occassional filter change than run without and spend a $1k a pop on a vp. Cutting corners costs money. If you have to spend the money on a new vp, you'll be in the hole. The AD2 100 at most would cost $600. You could have saved yourself $400 right there. When my pump went out, I noticed that the pump did not prime. The fuse blew, and I tried to replace the fuse. Worked for about 10 seconds than blew again. Had it towed home, and it turns out the seals to the motor went out. Diesel fuel got into the pump and ruined it. Came out of nowhere...

This is what I recommend: http://www.pureflowairdog.com/airdogII.php The model that flows atleast 100gph. This is what I assume you have: http://www.pureflowairdog.com/raptor.php