hex0rz

Alright, so I'm gonna get my A/C evacuated so I can pull the dash and replace the heater core. The problem is, how do I disconnect the A/C lines that go to the evaporator? I thought there was a simple trick to do them and could avoid buying the line disconnect tools, but I do not remember what the trick was. Or is there a trick?

Thats mainly the 2 very reasons why I moved away from Spokane! Growing up there, I knew what kind of thuggery went on. Then, the traffic. Everytime I go down there now, I'm always shocked at by the change in the city and attitude of people. I'm the type of person that likes to see all four seasons in a year! It feels more natural to me to see that transition in time and weather. As it should be.. The times of the year though, around early spring mainly, but late fall too, it will rain up here for weeks straight. If I lived over on the west coast, I would definitely become a statistic. The cold can be overcome. A good hot fire or sitting next to the woodstove is always a good remedy with some hot chocolate. The snow, well, it gives me reasons to do something else. I don't mind getting out everday and shoveling snow. Especially now. When we got our heavy snows, people were making money, and working! They were up on roofs shoveling. Bad for the homeowner, cause it was not cheap, but good for people who were desperate for work and money. Don't like being out in the white stuff all the time? Stay inside, sit by the fire, spend time with the family! I just like it out here, cause it sometimes can force you to get back to traditional things. Not sitting at the puter or tv all the time. If you have kids, they can actually get out in the woods and see nature or go camping instead of being a drone with their gadgets. ...I think you answered it pretty good! You were on the res! Its indians driving! Couple that with some whiskey... I'm part engine and so is my wife. I'm not racist.

Dang! Talk about being schooled! I'm gonna have to read this a couple times to digest all of what you said. Where I plan on moving, its gonna go in the shop. Hopefully shop has 220 outlets. I will know tomorrow, as I'm going to see the place. If not, I will have to see what I can do, or just go 110. It should just run the same on either voltage, right? It just draws more amperage on the 110? Once I can get an idea of how its wired, I'll take more pics and post up the findings.

I never knew it was wired that way. I figured 110 and 220 so to speak meant that your hot and neutral was like the positive and negative. So in a 220 format, had 2 positives and a negative. So what it sounds like your saying is that even on a 110 circuit, there is 2 hots? Electrical has never been my strongpoint. Although, I still would say I've got a basic understanding. I'll take some pictures so you guys can get a better idea.. - - - Updated - - -

I'm not an advocate for the, "If you cant beat 'em, join 'em" saying. Its the bigger city lifestyle. Too busy for everyone or thing but themselves. Everything revolves around themselves.Solution:- Move to a smaller town. May not be able to run from it forever, but can atleast delay it by a few decades.

Alright, so in the midst of this soon to be move I will be conducting, being that the in-laws are on the same property, I get an opportunity to inherit some rare treasures. One of them, a commercial grade meat bandsaw! Its a hobart 5212. I have done a little bit of research on the saw and have found that in refurbished condition can sell at around $2000! They gave it to me for FREE! Its been in the backyard covered in plastic for quit some time. It has handled the elements alot better than I thought it would. I pulled it out yesterday, looking at it and all the parts to it. Was fortunate enough to get it all properly assembled. I found an manual to it, but it is definitely not the best in description: http://hobart.co.kr/install_pdf/003.pdf Now, I'm a bit confused on the electrical portion of this. I can supply pictures if need be. On the saw, it appears to me that the ON/OFF switch just actuates a breaker inside the saw. The breaker actuates and supplies power or does not to the motor. Like a BIG relay... On the motor itself, it shows it being dual voltage: 115/230. On the power cord attached, there are only 2 wires. In my little experience that I have, this would seem to tell me that it is wired in a 110v fashion. Both wires are insulated in a black sheathing though. I looked on the end of the cord, and I cannot think how there is anyway a third wire is somehow cut back in the cord. So I have one hot, one neutral it appears. What about a third wire for ground even? I do not see that even... If this indeed is correct and it is wired for a 110 setup, how do I determine which wire is hot and the other neutral? Should I be concerned about the lack of a ground wire? It does not appear the motor has a voltage switch to go between 110 and 220, does it just "auto-sense"? Yep, if I can get this beast working, it will prove to be VERY useful in cutting anything up that comes my way! Its just me and the wife. It would make for some VERY LONG days cutting and wrapping up elk or cow if I did not have this!

Alright, so doing a little more researching, it seems I understand why pacbrakes is "better". It is actually really simple in how they achieve the better performance they advertise. http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=mechanics I kinda of have accepted that it is gonna be a pricey one. Although, I know what I will have. On top of that, looking at their website, it does not show them offering any other exhaust brakes but this model. So I guess they dropped the others. As far as clutter goes, I think I can manage it. I don't necessarily like the idea, but it justifies me adding in other things such as bags, etc. Now, what Mike said IS TRUE about the kind of load applied. Their chart shows an average of about 60psi of backpressure. They also advertise that any retarding power is doubled. One instance shows a vehicle having retarding power of up to 300hp. Now, I may call them again about this and see if they can comprehend it a little more about what I'm asking. Cause my truck just barely gets to 30psi boost and about 300hp. But for it to go in reverse, how DOES it affect the tranny? - - - Updated - - - Alright, so I DID call them again. Got a more knowledgable guy on the phone and pretty much helped me answer my question. What he was saying is that they designed the brake for stock trucks. He said your always going to be better off with better stronger parts in the transmission, but specifically made it compatible with stock trucks. He said that the controller is supposed to watch the RPM's, speed and I guess also monitors slippage of the TC. It sounds like it is able to determine slippage by rpm and speed in lockup. If it senses slippage, the brake will de-activate to prevent damage. He said that it would be better to have a better TC and VB than it would be to worry over an input shaft and flexplate. I told him I have a triple-disk and tow/haul VB. He said that I'm pretty much golden then. Installing their EB's really don't look like a whole lot of fun. On my truck, the maxflow elbow has the EB components on it and bolts up to the turbo. But on the back side, the downpipe is cut down a bit and then an adapter is welded on. I'm not terribly fond of welding exhaust, lol.

I don't think you mentioned whether or not you had turned off the Edge Chip and tested to see what results came from that. Its hard to say whats going on unless you turn the chip off.I say this because, if you look at my signature, I have 70hp DAP injectors. On a WOT pull, I may get a haze. So, being that you have stock injectors, it makes no sense that your smoking that much.Another good way to tell if your injectors are going out is to check your oil. I know when my injectors were going out, my oil was constantly venting. Diesel was being added to the crankcase and washing it all out. At the time I was also just around 200k miles.When I replaced my injectors, the oil vented out for a while then stopped quit a bit. I checked the dipstick, and the level was from way over the top of the full mark, to at the half-way point between the marks.Also, take the dipstick, get a good amount of oil on it, and take a papertowl and let the oil off of the dipstick drip onto the papertowel to create about a dime size blob. Watch to see how big it grows and if the growth is a pale color. You will see what is oil and what is diesel. I think from a dime size to a quarter size, you have leaking injectors.Hope that helps...

I was looking at pac-brake's newest system. Its $1600 to the door for an auto. It seems a little involved for what it should be. Uses a compressor, tank system. Perk of it is you could use it in conjunction for a load-leveling system and an extra port for accessory stuff, like inflate your tires. Is installed in-line to exhaust as well and requires a little fab work. Although, its alot more junk to throw onto the truck. Their older model is more simple and is actuated by the vacuum system. Other then that, I have not looked at many other brands too much. I know bd and banks have one and stuff, but pac brake is advertising about how they have this huge improvement in stopping power with their new model.

Check:NAPAO'Reilly'sAutozoneRockAutoLocal salvage yardAftermarket storesCustom fab shopIF mine ever goes out, I will pay someone to fab me up a stainless steel or aluminum exchanger. Would be fairly easy, I would think.ORJust eliminate it from the system...

Such a small forum, but such a large cache of wisdom.

I'm right there with Mike. In my area, diesel is $4.12/gal. Down south a little in CDA, ID, I'm finally seeing it under $4/gal! Its funny though, for us to say these kinds of things... "wooo! Under $4/gal!" Right, cause thats something to scream about! :banghead: Less than $3/gal and I'll start making a face... Also, I was looking on a fuel map recently, guess where the CHEAPEST fuel prices are?! SOUTH CAROLINA! The prices get worse as you start moving towards the west coast, too. South Carolina was under $3/gal!

If a solution to the problem is found and we can find the "cause and origin", this will prove to be monumental! Think about the kind of repor this site would gain! There will be alot of people flocking and/or talking about this!

I suppose I'm in business then! I got me a triple-disk.

So you think anything ABOVE 1 VOLT A/C is where your problem is going to arise from? I just bought my DMM last year and its an auto ranging type..

Okay, I have a bit of a dilemma... maybe. I cheked my voltage on my truck with the truck running and showed 14.44V DC at both batteries. Switched to A/C voltage and it showed .16v. In your video on your DMM, it shows .016v A/C. Thats a big difference! With my truck off, I tested the A/C voltage and it was .016 or so. I DO NOT have any TC hunting problems. 'Am I looking at this wrong?

Yep... so if one of the a/c controls is recirculate, then how does that work? Cause, what if I wanted recirulate on but want heat? Unless the heater core vent is not setup for that?

No, I was not talking about throwing you under the bus. I meant when I was quoting moparman and pepsi. ...now we just need to get them to chime in on it...

Alright, so I'm gonna go out on a limb here and quote the statement. I hope the person does not think I'm throwing them under the bus!

You know, I actually never understood the HVAC controls.. Obviosuly the picture fits the desired action, but the A/C portion and how to get recirculation confuses me.

Mike, are you going to make this a techie, or is it already?

good deal!One of the things I always try and do is whenever I perform work on my truck. A victory drive is always done after!

http://www.genosgarage.com/CAB-FRESH-INTERIOR-AIR-FILTER-KIT-94-02/productinfo/CFF-DG-0610K/ Anyone have one? I'm thinking this will be a great asset for my truck. Say goodbye to clogged cores!

It has been news to me too. I hope that others could chime in on this subject. Especially ones who own an e-brake with an auto.