angus

I guess the next reasonable step would be to jack it back up, and start cracking lines loose until we find the source of the restriction:shrug:Its not like its frozen so to speak, but there is enough friction on it, I can see it getting hot, and the premature brake wear issue will continue:banghead:

To make a long story short.. We have replaced both front calipers & hoses on the 99. The pass side brakes, and releases normal. The drivers side is still sticky ?? It does have 4 wheel ABS... I`m not sure of the proper name, but the ABS "valve body"?? seems to be the next thing in line.I`m wondering if anyone else has seen a similar issue:think:

Yes.. but for some reason it seemed like our DDRP came with like a 5/16 filter:think: I pitched it on the shelf and bought a 3/8 Wix.. its been changed out every other oil change along with the cartridge filter.

Yeah I think the best place is back close to the tank.. My old Vacuum/ pressure gauge might not be real accurate, but it was so much better than the 5-6 idleing the original registered I was very pleased.I think the 1/2'' line might have been a little overkill for a stock engine, but it probably does`nt hurt anything either:2cents:

We bought the Vulcan 1/2" big line kit with our DDRP.. its stock 3/8 into the pump, and then all high flow push locks from there through the stock filter canister right to an elbo into the VP.. The elbow has a convenient 1/8 pipe tap in it for FP. My Son does`nt have a gauge on the 99, but I rigged one out of my tool box just to test, and it was running about 15-16@ idle and fluctuated between 10-12 just reving it in the shop?? never checked it on a road test though..I may be all wet on this??but I always prime my filter canister with a sqeeze bottle of fuel before ever trying to start. On the 99 I pull the brass plugs out and run it through a small funnel until it runs over.My 03 is a little more tricky because it has the spin on cap, but I have never had an issue with prime on either one.getting the air out of the VP is`nt all that hard either.. Just crack three of the lines @ the injector tubes that are easiest to reach, and then crank... I have found that it helps to hold the foot pedal to the floor until she starts to hit good.. then tighten your lines back up

yeah I`m going to err on the side of caution here.. Hay season is rolling around and we are typically in the 90-100 degree range.. So I`m mostly concerned about getting a clogged filter if their (de) corrosive claims are true.I have also read some good information about "optilube". Its a little pricey, but if their claims of 2-3 mpg increase are close to acurate the cost balances out, and you get the second best lubricity additive available.The only way to know for sure is to do your own study, and see what really works.

The guys from the Farm supply said they run the bean oil in all their equipment, and did`nt seem too concerned about temperature with 2% blended.. A cold winter here is in the single digits, and extremes are anything that dips below -0A guy told me he attended a seminar on bio products, and at the beginning of the presentation the speaker placed a handfull of rusty nails in a jar of bean oil.. at the end of the show he dumped the nails out and the rust was completely disolved.The big warning they give you around here is to change filters more frequent until the system cleans out.As for storage I plan on only mixing what I can burn in the summer then switch back to some two stroke for winter.. which is pretty slow around my place.

Mike, has anyone actually determined what the gel point of soy bean oil is? Here in Oklahoma we are surrounded with soy bean fields, and not a bio pump in sight.. from what I gather from other posters they are everywhere up north. I know they are trying to market bio as high as 20%, but as far as lubricity is concerned 2% is more than sufficient

R.W. I mixed up a batch of 2% soybean oil with off road ULSD diesel a few weeks ago, and so far my old Ford, and my 07 Kioti seam to like it just fine..According to the charts Mike has posted 2% soy bean far surpasses anything you can add to your fuel including two stroke oil.I bought it at the local county farm supply for $3.59 a gallon mixing it 50/1... I`m pretty sure you can buy it by the drum, or the truck load.. I think I would take a serious look at it:2cents:

Dang! RW.. 4gallons is good for 32 fill ups by my math LOL! I think I`m gonna look into buying some supertec stock to go with the two stroke!

What is the spec on the tranfer case.. ATF?

I had to spell it out as well at the Oreilly parts counter LOL! Evidently Zerex (Valvoline) are the only aftermarket that produce G05, or Hoat replacement.. It means Hybrid organic acid technology. Oreilly had to order it @ $17 something a gallon.. When I drained the old coolant it still checked good to - 30 degrees, and I was pleasantly shocked that there was absolutely no corrosion in the cylinder head or radiator after 151K:hyper: I have never seen a cast Iron engine look that clean.. So I`m glad I stuck with it:2cents: http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerex_g05.pdf

I`m thinking a worst case scenario either a collapsed lifter, or a cam lobe going flat.. I know at some point most engine manufacturers have swithched to roller cam & lifters for pushrod engines.. Which could be a good thing because a person could probably just replace the lifter set if the cam is still within spec. I`m not familiar at all with an 03 Dodge V6, and I`m just trying to get an idea before I go look at it this weekend.

I apologize for posting this in the wrong forum but I need to get some quick feedback from anyone who might know something on an 03 Ram 1500 with a V6??My youngest Son is looking at this truck with 187K and the Owner is willing to make a good deal, but it has some engine noise which a mechanic told him was likely a rocker arm.I was planning to go look at it Friday and see for myself.My question is does anybody know if an 03 V6 would be a Roller cam engine? or flat tappet?I realize a noise like that could be any number of things, but replacing a roller cam setup is considerable more than an ordinary flat tappet if that proves to be the case.

The VIN # on your truck can give you the ratio... any dealer should be able to run it.. or I bet Mike could even decode it

I googled D70 specs and they indicated the pinion has a shimmed preload.. No crush sleeve. Minimum torque spec was 220-330 lbs ft

My Son replaced the D70 in his 99 week before last with a limited slip unit he found at a local salvage.. He and his buddy were having trouble getting the Ujoint cap bolts tight so they opted to swap the yoke off his old axle:think:To make a long story short.. he now has a leaking pinion seal.Does the Dana have a crush sleeve on the pinion like a GM?? If so, any recomendations on how to torque the yoke back without changing the pinion depth??

YH, can you give some pics on your install? would be interesting..

My recomendation is to buy the G05 "HOAT" I changed mine a few weeks ago with 151K, and the inside of the head under the stat does`nt even look like its even had fluid in it:whistle: Damn! I gotta start taken pictures like Mike..

LMAO!! where did you find that emoticon??? - - - Updated - - - This is probably an ignorant question ... but do readings such as temp, oil press, voltage pass through the PCM before registering on the dash gauges ??

I`m thinking the manual gauge should tell the true story. The temp fluxuations seem to indicate the thermostate is working properly in cold climate conditions.. the is when you say it continues even on warmer days. The Cummins engine seems to be a very cold natured engine to begin with.. I did a coolant flush a couple weeks ago and I did`nt think the thermo was ever going to open, and it was 70 degrees that afternoon

Drip, Don`t want to derail your thread... but WTH could blow your radiator up like that???

Point taken.. I had`nt thought about the benefits of stall speed with relation to towing, but it makes perfect sense being able to get the turbo spooled quicker.. Thats something the stick shift guys don`t have to worry about.

Have to disagree just a little WF.. High HP Drag racers use converters that stall up to 6,000 rpm its the nature of the beast in gasoline/Alcohol high performance.. the torque curve goes higher in the rpm as you increase HP thus stall must increase proportionally. The big drawback to higher stall is higher trans temperatures kinda like driving a standard with your foot half on the clutch

Just curious.. Is your setup mounted to your transfer case ?