stevens cummins

BeRings are correct and 2nd is the only one having the issue all others engage perfect i have had this main shaft apart 3 times and followed the nv4500 service manual to a tee i even stacked the oem shaft to make sure it wasnt the after market shaft which is why im so confused ive checked all parts 3 times and cant find a issue which is why im asking i even compared the oem snap rings to the after market and the oem syncros so im starting to think im over thinking it . The struts on the 1 2 hub are odd to me but its my first 4500 they seem to let the collar still move alot even after they engage but its the same even with all oem parts or aftermarket if i had a video and could up load it i would

When i pull it it clicks in to 2nd but at this point it barely enguages the teeth i even tried the orginal parts and the same result so what could cause this

So does the shift fork actually keep it there, its not the bearings heres a little back story its a full rebuild hasnt been finished yet it has new input shaft new main shaft new counter shaft all new bearings including needle bearings new syncros new 1,2 syncro hub all new syncro sliders new syncro struts and springs new thrust washers new reverse gear both main and counter shaft shimmed as close to .002 as possible and a complete new top cover it looks to engage 2nd good with the top on but i was refering to with out the top on by just putting it in 2nd by hand the syncro sleve just barely engagues the gear teeth unless i hold it and wasnt forsure if the fork was suppost to hold it up there or not. I maby over thinking it but really dont want to have to pull it out again

Ok guys messin with the nv4500 some more and noticed that when the 2nd gear shift collar is slid in to 2nd gear it has alot of movement meaning it is easy to move back to the edge of the teeth on the 2nd gear is this normal ive serched for answers or videos and cant find the answer and would like to know before i put the top cover on

Thatkinda whta i was thinking but wasnt sure

In case it helps the nv4500 is 5 1/4 in shorter than the 5600 front had to be shortend 5 1/4 and rear lengthed 5 1/4

By 2000 2500 decided to start leaking fron the hydroboost return line at the short rubber line between the hydroboost and metal line is there a hose i can use to patch it temporarily till my new hose gets here

Ive got a 2000 dodge 2500 regular cab long bed nv4500 and a np241 dld im needing a measurement on the front drive line fully collapsed fron the transfercase flang to center of u joint and on the rear fron center of ujoint to center of ujoint im going to be measureing them this weekend to have them made where i swaped the 4500 in and want to make sure im close on the measurements

Ok Ill try to contact them i picked this trans up from a guy it was a 2wd and input bearing failed breaking teeth on the counter shaft im swaping it in my truck after im done it now has been changed to 4wd new larger input shaft and retainer nee counter shaft new updated mainshaft ne bearing including needle bearings new syncros new 5th gear and all going in a truck rarly tows more than a bass boat and is stock as far as power just want reliable

Ok just seems to me it would wear that outer ring haha just making sure i didnt need some thing different

Ok guys im building my nv4500 and the updated mainshaft uses the split 3 piece washer on the fifth gear but when i put the nut on the outer ring of the washer stays loose is this normal or is there a spacific nut i need

Yes. I need the measurements so I can biuld my own

Its the plate that bolts to the trans tail housing then the mount bolts to that. I mainly need to know what the thickness of space it has

Can any one give me the demisions for the trans mount plate on a nv4500 in a 2000 dodge 2500 4x4 mainly the thickness so I can build one but keep every thing at the proper height

Ok thanks dont wana be pullin it back out for a leak any time soon

So I'm building my nv4500 finely but am courious what sealer works best for the tail housing and the top cover and input shaft housing

Ok guys as some know im doing what some think is crazy but im changing from a nv5600 to a nv4500 does any one know how much shorter the 4500 is ive serched it and found 2 answers 5 3/4 and 6 in and does any one have drive shaft lengts for a 2000 2500 4x4 regular cab with the dld tc im trying to get a quote from drive line shop but need to know mesurments i aint got the trans in yet to mesure

Ok thanks ill hve to try and find some info on it the reason for wondering is the retainer is the same size to fit inr the trans case just didnt know if bearing size was diff or not

Im building my nv4500 and found a deal on a big input shaft because the bearing got lost, does it use a diffrent size bearing or the stock size. I know the retainer has a slightly larger opening for the larger shaft but dont know about the bearing

Ive also been seeing alot of people using supposed brass syncros are they real and if so is there any justice to using them or stick to orginal style

Patterns are the same gust didnt know if i could get the stubb whats the thread on the 5600 lever

Well trans is on the stand right now i have the first pic

Well i can buy a top for it from a couple trans parts plaves however it over $300 the newer style will fit the older no issue was hoping to to save myself $400 for the top and the tower on top of what i will have in the build its self

Well where mine is from a 97 model it dont have the tower thats held on with 4 bolts it uses the style with the shifter stubb that just locks in and currently acceps a square lever and i would have to change the stubb to a angled and thredded style and dont know if that will work or not

No id like to use the rod i have found stubbs for the early style top that changes it ti threaded but dont know if my rod will screw on it