flagmanruss

I didn't get the deck boards screwed down... the last step... It's snowing & wife decided she might have to plow with ATV. So she moved the trailer. You know the new LED lights... with the soldered wires & shrink tube sealed wires... rammed into a rock & broke. I might be able to finish some things (takes twice as long working with one good hand) if my efforts were not sabotaged. *&^%$#! I bought the lights as a kit. IIT make off Amazon. Not finding single lights listed. Oh, well. Not going to match. I'm not going to try to work out in the cold. disgusted

I rarely use 4WD. When I do, I have to figure out which way to turn to relieve the pressure so it'll unlock again. Probably means I didn't really need 4WD as there wasn't enough slip to the ground but I'm trying to save the lawn, pulling a trailer out or such. I try to use 4WD occasionally, just to exercise the mechanism.

Yes, Tom, that's the stuff on the stick... I think it went from green to red or vise versa. Surprisingly we never had a problem with water in our tanks. We were so small we had to get fuel from a middle man... Agway, supplied many farms in our area but it was straight out of the Mobil Terminal in Providence. We were promised that if we ever had enough to measure that Agway would pump it out our tank fill with a long pipe.I wonder if a shield or insulation on the AD would break the wind OR trap engine heat to stop the wind chill?? My initial thought was like a skid plate of plastic from the front to bring engine heat down & break the wind. What about a flexible insulation (like package shipping) in sheets wrapped around the canisters? For a really wacked out idea... flex duct from the radiator to such a flexible insulation container to bring heat down to the filter & pump?

I do not buy his story. I never had bulk diesel tanks but had a 1000 gal high test gas & 3000 gal regular gas (leaded fuels) in ground at the boat marina. We could put a chemical that reacted with water on our tank stick & see the water level in the bottom of the fuel tank. We had a customer with water in his fuel... swore he only bought from us (and not the fuel docks closer to the harbor entrance) We did stick the tanks in front of him... and there was barely enough to react the bottom of the stick. We did eventually find a missing clam shell over his side tank vent so spray "might" have entered. Or he might have got bad fuel elsewhere. I just find it so hard to believe that water would not settle out. I might be tempted to get a pint jar with a screw lid... get it fullof fuel & let it settle over night. I routinely did this... with drained separator contents... before going to work on a balky engine. The screw lid kept all the fumes in, prevented evaporation. If I found water... I'd start a routine of separator service & not waste a lot of time on the motors. If I didn't find water, then I eliminated a lot of wasted effort of filters & went on to other possibilities. In cold weather like you have, I'd put the sample someplace with reasonable safe warmth. I might even take it to the fuel seller to complain! I've had my old JD410 froze up... I covered the front fright over the loader & all with a bunch of canvas & stuck a salamander heater under the transmission blasting away. I did thaw it out enough to run but took a lot of time in the snow. I was afraid of setting fire to the machine but it didn't happen so my clearances turned out to be adequate.

I've heard a lot of times... after the pressure equalizes... the power windows will still work for a few minutes. Door might open too, if not collision damaged (try least damaged side of vehicle first. As a former scuba instructor, I know a lot about pressure. Very good point about staying very calm... once the violent action stops, get seat belt off. I carry a of bunch of razor knives scattered about vehicles & home so I don't have to hunt for them. I wonder how to secure a razor knife or tool so it isn't lost in a violent collision like a roll over. You are almost weightless in water & the ability to swing a hammer is about nil... unless you brace against something. A lot of phones are lost in collisions too... end up on the floor & out of reach if pinned in a vehicle... we've all heard of people pinned for days until a passer by finds the vehicle & hope the trapped individual is still alive. By the way... it is Federal Law, that even retired & no longer activated phones can call 911. I keep an old spare phone in my console with the car charger. I do charge it while driving occasionally. This is a good one, keeps a charge pretty well. It might be better stored in a zip-lock.

I am in the habit of pushing the key fob twice... my Cirrus the first click only unlocks the driver's door... the second unlocks the rest. I prefer to have them all unlocked so I can put things away.

This kind of problem does occur with failure of the engine mounted vacuum pump... for some reason it puts pressure into the crank case. I believe Genos sells a rebuild kit. I found these threads: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8065-Vacuum-pump-Rebuild-time! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7614-Vacuum-and-power-steering-pump-recommendations

Mike, this is a good thought. The Cirrus airbox & filter is up against the radiator support with a fairly small snorkel aimed forward. Outside of a screen to keep the mice out, stock air box. I've never run winter front on this one... something to consider. Or adding rear facing holes to suck warmer air from the engine side??? Actually increasing the intake air temp would certainly aid fuel mixing. Maybe something as simple as a flap to cover the hole through the radiator support. I'm going to pop the hood for a look see. If your data carries over from Diesel to Gas we could use the same 143* resistor to fool the IAT sensor...

I've come across "chips" supposed to get better "MPG & Power". Built for your specific make & model of vehicle. The ads make clear they are only altering the sensor readings to 'fool' the OEM software. When looking into the installation instructions it becomes apparent that these 'chips' are IAT foolers... I rejected buying one for my daily driver... because it is 'only' an IAT fooler... and WAY over priced. Their MPG & power claims are pure horse pucky at least as far as my experience with the IAT fooler on my CTD. On the other hand, my experience with my home built IAT fooler is a gain of about 1mpg in cool to cold weather... with 410 gears. I'm certainly not interested in paying over 100$ for a resistor in a little plastic box & a couple of plugs. I'm now thinking of a DIY IAT fooler for my Cirrus. I'd propose to install a toggle switch to turn it off for cold starts just like the Cummins. I wonder what the resistance range would need to be to make it work?Any ideas?

Even knowing nothing... everyone can see the spewing vapors. It smells too. Are they heavier than air? Even if you decided to enter the danger zone... First recognize it is a DANGER ZONE. Come up with a plan... It generally makes sense to be carrying a first aid kit, as the officer did. But not under these circumstances... walking in there with an unnecessary item in his hands is a bad plan or no plan. Trying to rouse the victim while still in the danger zone is a bad plan. A better plan might be 'Hold your breath, run in grab the guy & drag him out... real quick like.' When the officer was first affected by the fumes, he didn't get himself out of the danger zone... This is like pulling someone out of a car fire... get in, get out... I used to keep a small scuba tank (called a bail out bottle) & regulator & mask in my car. I could get 10 minutes out of the air in the water. It might not be as good as a full mask but it'll work.

Thanks for the link. The officer in that clip didn't hesitate... when he should have. Good lessons for us all. I recall reading about a large fishing vessel. A crewman was in a big refrigerated fish hold... apparently an ammonia leak over came him. Another guy went in to try to save him, didn't make it out & think a third went in too!!

This Video is doubly tragic. In the jurisdiction I worked & the one we live in now, dispatch will take the call... say an auto accident or a house fire... Police, Fire, EMS will all be dispatched. Police Patrol will often arrive first because they are already in the car & cars can maneuver faster than trucks. The Cruiser overhead lights can help guide other responding units. Depending on the situation, Police or off duty fire fighters will often try to get people to evacuate or help get them out. But dip-fork!! I can see the billowing gas. Fumes! Victim on the ground! DANGER! DANGER! If you want to risk running through it, get as far away from the source. Grab the victim & drag them out... don't freaking stay there! The tanker should have been labeled... shouldn't the officer have called in "We have a leaking ammonia tanker, I see one victim on the ground" So the fire fighters would know what they are dealing with. A few seconds to prepare can save lives. (Unit commander pre arrival: Joe & Bill are going in, Dave & I will help them gear up.)

Jim, the Shock Wave treatment is the ESWL I posted about earlier. They've found the no longer need a water tub... they just use a gel. I've had it 3 or 4 times.

But the absolutely necessary assessment must be rapid... and training helps. Wife had one such case. My wife was first ski patrol on scene... a young teen skier had gone off the trail, struck a tree & had an apparent head injury. She accessed his responses immediately... was conscious & could answer questions... & after checking for broken bones repeated seconds later... slightly less... Called for the EMS (FD Rescue) before beginning transport down off the hill. Ordinarily, a patient would have been treated in their room while waiting for the EMS. In this case the EMS had already arrived on scene. Patient was continuing to deteriorate. Patient arrested 10 minutes in transport to Pediatric Trauma Center 30 minutes away. Diverted to closer Hospital, (where my wife worked at the time) stabilized, left for Trauma Center with 2 additional ER nurses on life support on board. The Pediatric Trauma Center was ready for him & had successful surgery. Kid has a steel plate now but not only survived but returned to school in a very few weeks with no signs of permanent damage. In the video, there may have been enough people in the water... too many can be as bad as too few... but who was getting them tools, a knife, blankets, a rope to pull people out? The cop might not have been most useful in the water... Surely he could have organized a shore party to get needed items. (I keep a blanket in the back seat of all my vehicles year around.) Not long ago an officer in a neighboring town had to go in after someone. Before he did, he dropped his gunbelt & vest so he wasn't weighted down. I thought about that very situation when I was a p-t officer... apparently his equipment was right where he left it when the next units fished him & the driver out.

My 01.5 has it. Sure it was an extra cost option.

Police Officers are protected. I was a part-time officer for 9+ years (now 25 years ago). Their "shield" is not just their badge but also a legal shield for acts done under their public authority. At that time, all part-timers were required to have First Aid... full time officers were being upgraded to First Responders. My wife was on Ski Patrol and was certified as a First Responder... they had all the training an EMT would have without the advanced equipment in the Rescue truck. Though now off the ski patrol, she still carries her first aid belt. (She is credited with saving a life by her rapid & correct assessment on hill.) Many PDs were equipping Police cars with AEDs because they are on Patrol & often first to arrive on scene. There is no excuse for that Police Officer to be standing around, not doing anything useful to the victim's rescue. None. He should have calling it in, getting more help there, getting out the first aid gear from his cruiser. In the ocean front community I served, Police cars had life rings with lines attached. I carry a tow strap in my truck... a couple of knives including a folding razor knife in my door pocket tools...

I don't know the interchange but all 4 of my doors are sure rust buckets.

Wife just wears ear buds... wouldn't talk to me anyway. I rely on the 'girl in the box' (also known as "The New Girl" as opposed to "Blondie" my original GPS)... wife is not a good navigator doesn't anticipate information the driver needs towing heavy.

After the Morphine Treatment... my stone moved & was no longer blocking. It didn't pass immediately. More than a week later, it did. In the middle of peeing. Suddenly, pee stopped, pressure built... & the strangest sensation of firing a rock out! Hopefully a once in a lifetime experience. Mine seem to be perfectly happy to stay in the kidney these days.I don't know if there's something IN beer or just the sheer volume keeping things flushed out.

I am prone to them despite my constant fluid flushing... being dehydrated lets the sediment stick instead of being flushed out. My medications leave me parched no matter how much fluid I take in.

Had numerous rounds over 30 years. There are things which you can take which prevent them... (potassium citrate) if you can tolerate the stuff. I couldn't get away from the bathroom when I took it & it does no good sitting on your dresser. There's also an herbal but I don't know if it works. My first one tried to pass on it's own but got stuck... that's where the pain comes in as the pressure builds behind it. With a few doses of Morphine I was able to pass it. I expressed concern over the Morphine & the MD explained "This is why God invented the stuff" I did not take much convincing & went to sleep... it still hurt when I woke up so I got another shot of M which did the trick. The point is that it allows internal relaxation so to hopefully allow the stone to become unstuck. Since then, I've had the ESWL http://www.webmd.com/kidney-stones/extracorporeal-shock-wave-lithotripsy-eswl-for-kidney-stones several times. Intended to break up the stone & allow the chips to pass. The sharp edges are irritating as they go. The last one was only partially successful, broke it but not small enough. We are watching & waiting until it gets big enough to qualify for treating again. The alternative is to have the Urologist go in with a scope & instrument... he zaps it with a laser to break it up & tries to vacuum out all he can. I think my weight makes the ESWL more difficult (& we've established that it has failed on me) so I'm thinking of the scope next time. Meanwhile I'm trying to keep my citreous up... drinking lots of lemonade. Yes, it damn well does hurt. People who have had both say it hurts worse than childbirth. You have my sympathy. Recommend a heating pad.

After what I paid for the roof, I'm not letting him off the hook on that. And the biggest problem area seems to have been fixed. This second needs to fixed as well so that it does not become a major problem. He didn't work on the windows themselves, just tried an experimental rain gutter on the side which seems to be working. I didn't ask him to work on the windows themselves. Recalling that this is a salvaged unit... the windows may have been tampered with previously. Might not even be original to this unit. They do appear correct fit in the openings.I think there might well be a nylon or plastic "wear strip" under the glass or supposed to be which is missing in my unit. I'd expect to see a honey comb of water channels to allow water to run out. Lacking this wear strip, allows the frame of the moveable pane to drop which might force the interior lip on the OEM drain slots closed or otherwise block them. I will stop by the RV place & see if I can examine some windows & talk to their window guy.

Yes, I'm going to have to go back to my repair guy. The worse leak in the front appears fixed. He'll have to investigate possible sources of leakage. I hope it does not have to go back into his shop as that's a PITA... but if it must, it must. With what we paid, it ought not to leak.

Wife went out to check the camper. Despite the new roof covering, there is water leaking from the skylight and the wall near that window. It could be leaking from either place or both? Once the water gets inside the ceiling... it could run anywhere. I dug out the guy's number but am not going to ruin his Thanksgiving... I'll ruin his Friday instead. *&^%$#!

I want to thank everyone for their useful thoughts on this... has helped me to think more clearly. You'll note I mentioned a gap at the end of the rubber track filler in my post above. Recall also that my trailer has been salvaged once before I got it according to the title. So it's not a virgin & all systems are suspected of being f*cked with until proven otherwise.As we've noted, the window frames, like the rest of the rig, had incorrect caulk used... seems like electrical dumdum to me. My guy did a lot of work on the caulk. But to return to the windows for a moment. Where the gap is in the rubber filler piece in the gutter. I am suspecting there should be a verticle rubber wiper on the edge of the fixed pane, extending into the 1/2" gap I noted. I don't know what effect this would have on the flooding but it might have restricted water flow forward in the gutter. I can't see in my pictures. When the rain stops... If someone could get pictures of the gutter & window overlap on a rig with virgin windows I'd appreciate it.