flagmanruss

We live in the most rural area of "The Ocean State" as it says on the license plate. The things they call "Mountains" here are bumps by anyone else's standards. It's 10 miles to the nearest town... most of our driving would be classed as suburban. I95, I295, I195 are part of most commutes. The Stealership makes their pronouncement with no attempt to determine your driving, it's based solely on location. The Service Manager came right out & said "all driving in Rhode Island is Severe Service". It's her car & she can do as she chooses but I call B*ll Sh*t.

Exerpt from OM Off Hyundai site: SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONSA - Repeatedly driving short distance of less than 5miles (8km) in normal temperature or less than 10miles (16km) in freezing temperatureB - Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distancesC - Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or saltspread roadsD - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weatherE - Driving in sandy areasF - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)G- Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain roadH - Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rackI - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towingJ - Driving over 100 MPH (170 Km/h)K - Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditionsThe dealership is defining all of our state to be severe service. I think it's horse pucky. I'm suggesting she stay just under the 7500 mile interval.

Somebody is sure making money... only holds 3 quarts of oil yet "oil change service" is pretty much the same. The list of things that qualify for "Severe Service" includes "up or down hills", "cold weather", "snow or salt on the roads", "living near the coast". Southern Calif is considered "Severe Service". I've heard that all US states are considered SS. I feel like we were taken in. 40 mpg but the frequent oil changes run up the cost of ownership. It's the wife's & not mine but I'd be inclined to run 7000, under the ordinary service. Keep all the freakin reciepts. I have a sense the makers are weasels. Her driving is not severe service for any US maker!

I have the OEM fog lights & in my opinion, they are worthless. Just decoration. They're too low power, not practically aimable, garbage optically. The bulbs aren't cheap... since I don't have DRL I ran them instead until the bulbs burned out & had to replace them. If I was unsatisified with my lights, I'd add a relay on the headlights first which gives better power. You could upgrade to the Sport headlights which add a second bulb to the houseing. I'd run Aux lights either on or under the bumper with some quality optics & higher rated bulbs.

When Sheila bought the car... the salesman told her 3500 miles initial changes & later severe service. 7500 miles "normal service". Now the Stealership service manager is recommending 3500 intervals. On the surface, I'm thinking that this is just another case of self promoting, revenue enhansement.Then, I recall that this is just a 1.4 motor. I questioned the tiny motor when she bought it but it has a great warrentee. Anybody had any real work experience? What say you?Russ

Don't forget the the power comes off the driver's side, the ground off the passenger's side.

Well, we dropped the Cirrus off Sunday & they claim they "looked at it" but I bet it hasn't been touched. I had good luck with the first shop but a year or so ago, the guy had a new baby then & was expected to be up all night & wasn't able to work a full day... after a week with no work, I picked up my vehicle. His father was out sick as well. This year, no excuses. I don't mind waiting my turn in line... I waited several days to bring it in for this Monday (when they said)... but I'll not be pushed aside. But they've not done the first job... first part was to determine if the transmission rubber line repairs had collapsed as this is the determining factor in going ahead with going through it or quitting... but I've not gotten a call back. I can't wait on them to get the truck running. I'm going to take the truck to a local Wheel & Brake shop... They are closed until Monday but they said they'd work it in. I guess I need to scout some other shops that can actually get things done.I'm stuck with wifee chauffeuring me in a Hundai! HELP!! I can't bear the humiliation!edit:Really glad I didn't run out into the heavy traffic, would have wrecked the truck for sure & it would not have been pretty. Somebody could have gotten hurt bad.

I have seen bad solinoids a number of times... not on Cummins but my employment was mainly on Gas Marine engines. Have someone else turn the key to confirm your trigger voltage. Then test for output voltage. Might want to check the neutral start switch... stick? Has clutch switch under the clutch pedal. Probably not any of them but easier to check than pull a starter. I used to test for bad key switch with a mechanic's starter button. I haven't looked at the access but I used to test solinoids with a big arse screw driver with a plast handle... you know the one with the arc burns on the blade!

I finally put my car in the shop... the transmission is making noises that it shouldn't. IF the transmission proves to be something minor, then I keep the car & have a bunch of small jobs done. No sweat, I just have to drive my big 4X4 Dodge.I drove to town to get my Thanksgiving haircut... good thing I drive like a granny! I'm pulling up to the main road & the brake pedal kisses the floor & (as if I needed to be told) the red warning light BRAKES and the yellow warning light ABS come on. Brakes are out. Truck didn't stop until I was accross the sidewalk with the bumper into the travel lane. When I push the pedal & can hear it sucking air in & out. Scratch everything on my list for today. I carefuly drove it home, downshifting to slow it down... "Non-Stop". (LOL). I got nothing left to drive... except my mobility scooter (10 miles from town... not happening!)Russ

I'm sure there's a diagram here somewhere. My OEM lift pump stopped... truck stopped. My mechanic found a dirty connection I think on the passenger's side a connector a few inches from the battery. Clean all the terminals & grounds.

I've heard of direct wiring for testing but VP44 likes a few seconds prime then not fuel pump running until it starts. My AD150 is wired through a relay with the OEM power acting as the relay trigger.

Technically grid heaters in the intake are not the same as glow plugs in the cylinders. Yes, the heater relay can normally be heard.

We are all guessing as to your configuration as you've not added your truck to your signature.First question... Do you still have the grid heaters & are they working? Does the "Wait to start" light come on?

I'm looking at a new mobility scooter. All scooters are electric powered usually 24V... 2 SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) or Gel true deep-cycle batteries in series. RV wet cells are not spill proof & are really a hybrid battery just as a FYI. So this scooter I'm looking at is really extreem light weight & the maker offers a Li-Ion battery pack which would be a great option if the price wasn't rediculious. I am considering buying the scooter without batteries or with the SLA & sourcing my own LiFePO4 cells or battery pack. I don't have any experience with these. I'm told they require a balancing system (BCS: Battery Control System) charger but the sources are a very short on information. I'd be happy dirrect sourcing battery packs w/ charger if I could find the right physical dimensions. A lot of what's out there is clouded by mumbo-jumbo to discourage people who might otherwise save some bucks by DIY.Does anybody here have Li-Ion expertise?Russ

Since this is your first diesel... these grid heaters in the intake make it unwise to use any starting fluid. They could ignite in the intake... potentially catastrophic results. Once the engine starts, you'll notice the ammeter showing discharge for a few minutes... that's the draw of the grid heaters doing that. Once the heaters shut off, the alternator will recharge the batteries.My old John Deere does not have grid heaters & it's common to cold start with ether/starting fluid.

I whole heartedly agree with everything posted.What makes you think this truck never had a chip? At the very least, check the steering column & knee plastic for a hole from an Quadzilla XZT. Look under the hood for velcro or double sided mounting tape. Codes?? Run scan tool on it!!

You could keep the intake hose but the heat sheilds / boxes that AFE offers are all much too small for the BHAF. I think if you just took at the pictures in the thread I linked earlier, you'll easily see the differences. There are plenty of dry medium filters which would fit in your truck but the beauty of the BHAF is it's massive size.

You don't need a different hose. Maybe a few inches of sewer pipe to stiffen the clamp area. I tried some nifty tubes & such but they didn't work out. What you'll need is something to cover the stock mounting studs through the fender or a platform to sit it on, some require chafe protection against the AC line. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

Presume you are refering to Electro Magnetic Pulse. Just about any modern vehicle with vulnerable electronics... poor choice as a 'bail out vehicle'.

My AD 150 is mounted to the inside of the frame rail with the supplied brackets... easiest hose runs & good access for filter changes. If you deal with Vulcan, they'll send you the right stuff.

I have done this on my reenacting mocassins & boots. Yes, the old school is tallow, grease of several variations, wax. It "helps" but there's nothing what I've found that will go for weeks. Modern leathers are much more waterproof as manufactured. I generally use a commercial grease/wax mix which must be applied warm, rubbed in & allowed to dry. It also makes good patch lube. When I was a greenhorn, I made friends with a Cherokee couple. I was frustrated by my wet feet & I asked the gentleman how to keep my mocassins dry. He said sure. He would show me how to keep my mocassins dry. In one fluid motion he bent over, grabbed a mocassin off his foor & stuffed it under his war shirt, where it would certainly stay dry. Period writing describe mocassins as a decent way of going barefoot.

I don't have one in my truck. I used to install electronics not only in boats but also emergency vehicles, (Police, Fire, Rescue), school busses, fleet vehicles. There are antenna mounts available that screw under the hood through the edge so there are no holes visible. They are probably the best. I've seen antennas bed mounted & headache rack mounted which work. Cables can be run under the cab or through the back window. I don't like overhead radio mounting though we often installed add on speakers overhead or in the back of our service trucks. I just don't like swinging mike cords & it was hard to run concealed wiring.My service van/mobile work shop, was a GMC & I had my land mobile mounted to the driver's bucket seat base with mic beside it. That won't work with our trucks though. I'd look to see if I could mount in front of the drivers seat to the right, or in the cup holder cut out or the drivers knee panel (I have my trailer brake mounted on the left knee panel... I'd mount a CB on the right.) We often us hand helds when traveling... I use my cup holder or the rubber boot around the 4WD stick. Another idea would be the add on cup holders &'ve seen at Genos that slip under the front seat back when folded forward.

Well, yes, it does take fuel to do work! I can baby the truck running empty... but I know when I hookup the horse trailer or toy hauler & head out, it's gonna burn some serious fuel. But that's the only reason for owning a heavy hauler instead of a toy truck.

Good conductive connections... batteries, cables, grounds? Need a flow chart & systematically eliminate possible causes.

If you are referancing my comments... I wasn't refering to the parking brake, but the service brakes. I had an experience with my truck... It about drove me crazy. I wrote about it at the time, where the front calipers rusted/siezed. The truck drove normally, stopped normally (though I don't customarily use the brakes heavily), dealer stated no codes. Except the mpg was off. {Sorry, I wince when some puts up "gas mileage" in a diesel truck. I bet it gets few miles on gasoline.}Any rate a real mechanic subsequently went to check my ball joints, lifted the front & could barely turn the front wheels. I WAS THERE & saw it. The rust had expanded the edge of the disc so it dragged on the caliper frame. Sorry if I was unclear. My old mechanic texts list external friction as a possible source of poor mileage or loss of power, but I'd never seen it.