flagmanruss

I first learned about Amsoil... I had a bunch of 2 cycle yard equipment. all with different fuel mix requirements. I ran one container at 100/1 & ran everything fine... Years later, the tools were handed down when I was no longer able to hold the tools.

This is 2007 truck? Am I wrong that this is CR (common rail) engine? I found the following on CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/911-urgent-situations/12469-05-cummins-hard-start-when-warm.html

The machinist stated they checked the head when they did the valves. The 04 / 2.5 is in the years when they had bored the cylinders to larger displacement without enlarging the block giving less gasket sealing area. They are known for head gasket failures. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:97_-_99_Subaru_Head_Gasket_Failure.jpg

The work included a valve job, timing belt, water pump... we tried hard to do it right. The previous leak was a coolant leak to the outside. The horrizontal opposed engine puts the head gasket in a bitchy place low in the body. I can not help but wonder if the loose clamp let it lose coolant resulting in heat spikes. Or maybe the cussed aluminum block wasn't flat. Long story short, we're stuck, taking the hit (was not a cheap job). Spending more money on it just seems like a bad idea.

Subaru's are prone to head gasket failures. First time was in Warentee.We paid to have it done again last August. She pulled in the yard & the coolant blew all over... wasn't running hot until then! When she let it cool & we filled it with water... thought the radiator had failed. Took it to the cheaper garage, who said the top hose had a loose clamp... refilled it again and when it warms up, can see stream of bubbles in the coolant. Moved it to the garage across town who did the head gasket. The garage is saying "it must be a cracked head" because admitting their job failed would be bad for business. Either Head gasket again or cracked cylinder head... no way to know until it comes apart. We're not paying to take it apart again. We have no faith in it now. She drives all over late at night, plays gituar in a folk band, practices, picks up Granddaughters after school... must have a reliable car. Her sister & fiance' live in Maine (Fiance' & bros run a automotive machine shop.) Think she's going to give it to her sister. They better come with a tow truck or trailer.End of an era... Wifee bought Hyundi Accent in the last hours of April... She twisted them pretty tight on the car.

Consider POR15 coating.

Rhode Island is in New England... use huge piles of road salt. Oh, yes, truck was supposed to be rustproofed but wasn't. Park on gravel. Actually the front suspension seems to have the most rust, the frame & body (except the doors) seem to have realitively little.PS Did yas not believe me when I said it was rusted out?!

Wallet is quite a bit lighter. This is the only guy in the state who was willing to do the job... and he knew it! The big Palmer Spring shop (does all the state DOT trucks) I called said they would "if I found the parts" which they already knew to be unavailable. The guy I used, says he does welding / fabricating work from the spring shop. It is fixed, truck has state inspection. Wifee's Subaru did not do as well. Appears her head gasket done only a few months ago, has gone again. We have to get it back to the shop that did the work. I don't know if they'll stand behind it (they did stand behind the trans line repair that failed on my Cirrus). Sheila drives alone at night a lot, picks up grandkids... must have a reliable car. We have decided, that the Subaru will be leaving us one way or another. (Repaired or not repaired). Bye Bye, Subaru! --- Update to the previous post... Sorry, I should have got before pictures. The cup the spring sits in/on was all but rusted away. The mount for the sway bar link was rusted off. The nuts to remove the shock tower were just blobs of rust.

I got the truck back. The shop fabricated the front spring cups... my buddy & his Dad has a couple of sec gens with the same issue so he crawled under to scope it out. He said it looked like they cut out a donut from 3/8" plate with a rim of thinner pipe/tubing that they welded on top of the OEM cup, Fabricated tabs for the sway bar links & undercoated the whole business. Looks very sold. The guy says this "will not rust out again".

I have a simlar truck. First thing you must know, the VP44 IP has proven to be a bit fragile. It has it's own computer & tends to run hot. It is cooled by fuel. Attempts to cool it otherwise have failed. Increasing fuel flow & pressure (enough to open the return valve) are very helpful. The OEM lift pump was inadequate from day 1. Dodge's fix is an in tank pump that continues to be expensive, still failure prone, difficult to service, and does not increase fuel pressure enough. The VP44 was designed for LSD & ULSD has less lubricty. Many of us find the engine runs quieter & usually slightly better mpg & better life from VP44 IP when running TCW3 (2 cycle oil) 1 oz per gallon of fuel. FIRST, I would upgrade the fuel pump to an after market pump like FASS, AirDog, Raptor, mounted on the frame in front of the tank, & a fuelP guage.I put on a SS exhaust... happened to be 4" full length. Stock is 3" to the muffler & smaller out. Full length 3" is an upgrade.OEM air filter is ok for stock. A BHAF has more capacity & lasts longer. Cold Air intakes really aren't improvement on an intercooled diesel, IMHO. (Cold Air originated in gasoline race cars... a different critter.)The rest of your guages set...A mild chip/tuner. I like my Quadzilla XZT+. +35 hp or can program +65-70hp. Good for stock automatics. Can not fuel above stock parameters (though amount & timing are adjusted). Others like other units. Depends on your needs.

I rolled into a toll booth, had the horse trailer on, had to pay cash. With my weak left hand, I got as close as I could to reach... The post before the toll takers window, folded my mirror in against the window. Dang! Good thing I was going dead slow! Nothing broke, just a few light scratches. (Scratches are least glaring when you wash the paint out of them.) Love my EZ Pass.

Couple have been friends of ours for years. He had a second gen, 12V... found a 2011 Dodge 4 door, 4X4, dually, Cummins, every option... PROGRAM VEHICLE 9000 miles. Found it on the internet, Georgia or somewhere. Son took the train down to pick it up. Claimed to have saved 20k off "new". I still couldn't have afforded it but Nice Truck!My wife is expert at driving carriage horses... went with them first trip of the season. They are at the Management area horse camp up the street... Going with them again tomorrow.

Well, I own a lower mileage 01.5. I had a wiring fault shut down the stock lift pump which I converted with an AD150 & big line kit. But my VP44 seems to have survived it. My suggestion is to get the trouble prone stock lift pump out of it, before it costs you a VP44. Your IP might be just fine.

The ones pictured appear to be for the top of the coils. The ones that are rusted out are the bottoms, welded to to axle... part of the axle assembly according to Dodge. Sorry, I should have got a picture before the truck left this morning.

Nice install. Yer right. I muffed the part about it being a gasser.

Anybody with power mirrors have a pict of the control? How would one buy one? Part numbers or ??

NO, NO axle. They tried to find a bent axle to torch the parts off of with no success. I think they are going to be fabricated from steel stock & welded to my axle, at least that is the plan.

As I've posted before, the spring cups where the front springs sit on my front axle are badly rusted out. Dodge only sells them with the axle housing. (yeah, right!) It's not going to pass inspection without it. (It shouldn't have passed last year but after I spent a grand at the diesel shop they put a sticker on it so I'd pay them & take the truck away... They refused the job.) I called all over to find someone who would do it. The price they want to have the parts fabricated & installed is pretty steep but I'm out of options. I didn't tell them I couldn't find anyone else. So they are going to do that & install 4 new HD shocks. Yes, the shock mounts are lumps of rust too. I'm looking forward to new shocks... when I hit RIs notorious pot holes / frost heaves, it'd be nice to know I'm going to come down in my own lane! LOL. (Not as bad a New Hampshire frost heaves... I recall cruising down a NH back road with a buddy. We go by a sign says "Frost heaves next 7 miles". My buddy says better slow down. I slow down a little. A little bit down the road, I spy the first one... had to be 2 FEET high. I jam on the brakes before we crash into it. The freakin road is like a mine field... like driving an obstacal course. No way you could drive over them... ) See if I have any money left after this to mess with mirrors. Some things have to be prioritized...

I see the round plug in the door. Forgot it was there. I'll have to see if I have any money left when I get my truck back!

I have the manual tow mirrors... I don't like their blind spot in the tow mode & readjusting is a PITA (since I can barely get myself into the truck because of my legs impairment). Can someone tell me if the trucks were prewired in 01.5? Where does the control mount? I read through this thread & can't see the exact answers... sorry if I'm missing something here...Thanks guys,Russ

My inlaws have a island on wheels with a fold out top in their kitchen. I don't know any brand... I think the wheels lock or just remove them. http://www.jcpenney.com/jcp/XGN.aspx?N=4294933135&CatSel=4294933135--carts+++islands&DeptID=70752&PCatID=70752&CatID=70840&CatTyp=RLE&Dep=FURNITURE&Pcat=FURNITURE&Cat=Dining+%2b+Kitchen&SO=0&PSO=0&sa=1&cmAMS_T=XGN3&cmAMS_C=SUBCAT&cmAMS_Z=XGN3ABOVEPAGINATION&CmCatId=EXTERNAL|70840

I'm shocked... I honestly didn't think lamps would possibly fit behind the grill. I'll have to do some measuring. I had the grill cut out in my 68 Roadrunner for a pair of Carrello halogen Fogs. The OEM sealed beams were replaced with off road Hella halogens as well. I was smokin some amperage will all of them lit up... considering the vintage... The reason the lights look different in the photos was the different optics in the different units. They were separate H1 (the only halogen available then & not DOT approved) and shaped reflector with ground lens. The quality of the German optics was astounding. The headlight trim is missing in the photo because it was restricting the beam patterns. I had the power to light a miles & a quarter of straight flat highway at 2AM... & the power to burn through it!

The area over the wheel wells OEM had 2 pull out couches & a folding table and up high (over the 4 ATV tie downs) was a double bed that pulled down. These items were long gone before we aquired the trailer. Only the front queen bed remains. Except for having all the coolers in the camper where they don't belong... the rest of the things fold up & strap to tie downs on the walls for transport. There are some things out of the bedroom too because we've got the mattress on edge on blocks for the winter.I opened up all the window drains... even drilled some extras... under some conditions, the tracks could overflow. Still I found water on the floor after heavy rain yester-day & night. I don't know enough about fixing / maintaining RV rain tight. I'm seeing a drip from the rear vent / escape hatch (for the rear double which is long gone). My years dealing with boats where every inch of space is utilized inspired me with possibilities. Over the winter, I've had the power with it's auto charger (3 RV battery bank) on a timer... runs a couple of hours a day...

The previous owners used it for a warehouse & office while doing fairs. Here's the overhead Ikea cabinettes... the oversized rear one is a real head knocker. Bin storage is pretty useful. Pardon the mess... The previous had an Ikea folding table mounted on the right... under the head knocking cabinettes... I moved it to the left, next to the stove. We eat at the folding table. Will use the folding table for serving. Here's the bamboo blinds... on the left behind the kitchen... it was a very tight fit under the OEM cabinette but I was able to screw it to the wall The right side there was no room to screw the blinds to the wall so I screwed straight up into the cabinette bottom. The shaker coat peg installs are some of my work.

There was a single shelf & useless bin behind the toilet. My saber saw opened it up, I ordered a pair of doors & added 4 shelves. I noticed some wasted space beside the OEM drawers... After study & measuring... my saber saw opened it up & I framed a back through the drawer. I cut a door out of maple & did some basic router work. Installed TP holder. The closet had 2 doors & a 3" strip right down the middle... I cut the strip out & replaced the doors. We lifted a Ikea dresser that came with the trailer & put it inside after repairs. After closing up around the plumbing, I just reinstalled the front panel. Screws along the bottom will be covered by quarter round as soon as I get some finish on it. There were just 2 screws though the tub flange. I had to add another screw on the left to draw it up. I had cut out a piece of rounded wood which I screwed to the door as a stop. Mounted a magnetic catch to the bottom at the correct angle. The mating steel square will be reinstalled on the tub just above the quarter round.