Andyba20

I chased a very slow leak I couldn’t find for a long time. First replaced the condenser, which was part of the problem, but ultimately it was replacing the line with orifice tube that fixed mine. Been leak free for 5 years.

Taking to a guy tomorrow, I’m sure he’ll wanna take the headliner out, if he does I’ll get pics of everything. I’ve had a headliner job on my list for a while but it wasn’t really a priority. I know I keep saying it, but I’ve gotta pick my battles….fixing stuff has become a part time job lately. Track keeps coming off my Toro Dingo, so I’ve basically gained a PhD in mini skidsteers trying to solve that. Gonna have to start selling some stuff just to avoid the distractions.

Quick update. I got down to Greeneville last Friday to grab the door from the yard that @IBMobile found. The salvage yard doesn’t have a direct phone number so I wasn’t able to confirm any details about the door, I just had to go by the pictures posted. So I get there, see the truck, colors are perfect, walk around to the passenger side and….wrecked. So my heart sank, 3 hour drive…then I spot another 2nd gen…not 2 tone, but patriot blue…door was in great shape. Still trying to figure out the best way to straighten out the top of the door frame or jamb whatever’s it’s called. At this point I’m not worried about the paint, or the dent on the roof, I just want to get the door functional and dry.

I researched them a ton a while back for one of my trucks and basically it’s a master vision with no execution. I haven’t found anyone that can successfully get the exhaust brake function to work on the Turbonator, and they quietly changed some of the language around that feature a few months ago. Without the exhaust brake, for me, the turbo loses 1/2 its value. There is a guy down the road that runs a Turbonator on his 2nd gen and really likes how soon it spools, but he doesn’t tow so didn’t care about the EB. Sorry DPS, your marketing is better than your engineering.

I’m wanting the fan to turn on when I tap the shifter button and lock out OD. Trying to avoid having to install another dedicated switch in the cab, I’ve got too many as it is. Also, this way I’m running the fan by default when I’m towing, or when I’m in stop/go I can just tap the shifter to turn the fan on. I’ll probably have a thermostatic switch as well, but have heard mixed reviews on their reliability so the OD off trigger option essentially gives me manual control. This was responding to @Tractorman question. This would be more what I’m looking for, but don’t go out of your way to draw anything up, I just thought there might be a simple way to tap a trigger somewhere between the shifter button and the PCM command to lock out OD.

I’ll be finishing up installing my remote trans cooler over the weekend and I’d like to trigger the fan relay with the OD switch on the shifter. Is this possible, and if so where is the best place to tap my trigger wire? @IBMobile posted a diagram a while ago showing the circuitry, wiring, and fuses between the PCM and the shifter button (switch) that command OD on/off but I don’t understand it well enough to start cutting wires yet. His diagram shows fuse #14 powers the OD on/off light, so can I tap it there? And where is fuse #14 actually located? I’d tap into the wiring from the on/off button on the shifter, but it’s a momentary switch so I don’t think I can do that without using a special relay.

That’s interesting, I suspected my mega got hot during a long heavy winch pull a few months ago. Also makes me want to go back and crimp my lugs instead of soldering them.

I ended up using a big fuse and carry a spare with me just in case. I think some folks were having issues with the breakers being too sensitive and tripping early. See links below. (I used a 200 amp fuse bc I have an aftermarket alternator). If you have the oem alternator you’d be fine with a 140-150 amp fuse. I installed my fuse holder just along the passenger side battery tray. Geez I didn’t answer your question at all haha. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/littelfuse/lighting---electrical/fuses/fuses/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-200-amp-mega-fuse/lit0/meg200bp https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-hmeg?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIveCPzdi0_gIVttDjBx1ZcgF5EAQYFyABEgIlZPD_BwE

Thank you @IBMobile that one is indeed a match. Hopefully I can find time to get to Greenville before it’s sold.

I’m finally getting around to installing a Derale 15870 I’ve had in the garage for a while. I’m not stressing the trans as is, and honestly I’ve noticed temps staying lower (or more consistent) with just the addition of the Mag Hytec deep pan, so I’m a believer. Couple of questions to run by the group. 1.) I’m considering routing the hot oil to the remote cooler first, then to the factory cooler up front. My logic being that’ll mean less hot air being dumped over the intercooler, radiator, and engine. Would the heat transfer mitigation be enough to justify doing it that way and are there any plumbing considerations that would make this a bad idea? 2.) In an effort to reduce the number of auxiliary switches in the cab and on the knee bolster I was thinking of triggering the Derale fan off of the tow/haul switch. My thinking is I’d always want myself or anyone towing with my truck to have the fan running, and if I wanted to manually engage the fan in stop/go or low airflow driving situations I could just tap the tow/haul button instead of having another switch ran into the cab. Does anyone see a problem with this? 3.) I’m going to replace all the trans lines with soft 1/2” ID hose. Do these lines need to be anything special i.e. steel braided, or will off the shelf Napa hose work? 4.) Are barbed push lock fittings ok for this application, and what size should I get to avoid restrictions? I never really understood why I see so many upgrades use 1/2” line (for example), and then a fitting with a 3/8” orifice. Seems counterintuitive, but I’m no thermodynamics expert.

Will you guys do me a favor and keep your eyes peeled for a passenger (right) side rear door for sale with the paint code PB7 and lower paint code QFK. I attached a pic below. I’m trying to find a matching door, but if I can’t find one in the next few weeks I’m going to just grab one locally from a parts truck and paint it myself as best I can. Not that this truck is ever going to be a show truck, but it’s pretty much mechanically perfect and I might as well make some effort to keep it looking respectable. I found one matching door on eBay, but I can’t get the seller to respond to any questions or requests for more pictures. Any leads are appreciated.

Should I remove the headliner to pop the dent back up into place or leave it there and push against it?

Got the rear door unstuck today and got a better look. With the 2 options of replacing cab or pro body shop being very involved and or expensive I’m thinking it’s worth at least a try to straighten it out with a jack and a 2x4. Found a matching rear door for $100. Roof still won’t look pretty, but if I can get it weather sealed and functional I can figure out what to do longterm.

Excellent post, thank you for the detailed guidance. Is there an option #3? If I can get a rear door from a parts truck, will it be possible to straighten out/hammer out the door frame/jamb just to get it functional and dry?

So the estimate I got today from my local shop was $8,600.34. Not doing that, so what all is involved with a cab swap? I know this won’t be cheap, but figuring out how not to pay 8K would be awesome.

Pic of the replacement cushion/cover

The seats are factory, but the bottom seat cushion on the drivers side was replaced. Got the cushion from Geno’s and the cover from https://leather-auto-seats.com the owner of that site has specific knowledge of our trucks and was really helpful.

Not sure what to expect really, not much of a body work guy. I’m picking my battles with this truck these days and this is a battle I didn’t want.

I’ll get some pictures when I move the tree. From what I can tell the suicide door is bent at the top and the glass shattered and popped out, and the roof is dented in pretty good. Hard to tell, even up close, with all the branches and pine needles in the way. Didn’t even hear the tree fall, but that glass busting sounded like a shotgun blast.

I was 2 minutes from heading to town, brushing my teeth before I left and heard the crash.

Has anyone tried this? I’ve gotten spoiled by the heated steering wheel in my other vehicles, thought it might be worth trying this. I can see this seemingly simple install turning into a days long mess with an airbag exploding in my face. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385302567206?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WFiKetqqRxu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Ipl8lieISy-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Check ABS sensor wires, does your 99’ have front ABS? Likely the speed sensor at the rear diff, but look for cuts/nic in the wiring from the sensor to the abs module.

I’d just check the map sensor/harness connection, make sure it’s solid and clean. Of course swapping in a new map sensor would at least confirm or eliminate that issue. Or start testing the wiring harness and looking for bad grounds. Also, what year is your truck?

Is the trans temp showing correctly?

Is your oil pressure sensor connected to anything?