Andyba20

So you’re saying you cleared the code after you reconnected the quad and the code came back? you won’t get boost fooling without the quad connected. I’d return everything to the way it was (quad) and try it on level 3. I don’t know what custom tunes you have made for 7, but 3 will at least get you a little more fuel and boost fooling. If that doesn’t work I’d be checking for leaks. Hopefully you didn’t get a bad turbo.

Get your quad connected and clear the code see if it comes back. What time are you running? Same tune as always or new tune since the turbo swap?

That probably from having the quad module disconnected. Did you clear the code? What size injectors?

What kind of turbo, and what was in it before you changed turbos?

Gotta be better than the factory fog lights, if they’re plug and play why not just use the factory switch? Draw should be less on the LED’s.

Alright I’ll get it finished tomorrow. Then on to the Tappet cover.

Haha! I have to weigh the benefits of a mod vs my ability to find new ways to screw things up. My rule with electronic mods is to wait for a nice sunny day when I can take my time and dedicate my complete undivided attention

Busted. Not yet, it’s been on my list and it keeps getting pushed back with other repairs.

Good point, I was doing the 30/30 more for the winch motor, and then waiting for the charging voltage to return to the normal 14.2 I see on mine, but yea I’m not really sure what the amp hours are on my 810 Everstart batteries. Or if that even is a factor in this scenario.

I’ll try to replicate the conditions the next time I have a heavy pull, and run your testing procedures. It sure seemed like the alternator stopped charging for a few minutes, but again, I don’t understand the system well enough to say one way or another.

10-4, I wasn’t so much using it for accuracy but as a consistent reference as I was doing the pull. The needle would slowly dip during the pull and then slow rise during recovery. This happened for about 6 on/off 30 second cycles before the check gauge light came on and the needle went all the way to 8, then there was no slow rise which made made assume it wasn’t charging. I did go ahead and start monitoring voltage via the adrenaline monitor (iPhone) after that. So am I hearing you and @Mopar1973Man say the pcm cannot or does not command the alternator to stop charging under certain conditions?

Thanks for the good ideas @Tractorman To answer your questions, this is an old Ramsey worm gear winch that has been well taken care of and is pretty much unstoppable. The max current rating is 370 amps. I was at idle, but the Nations 180 at idle has an output of 120 amps, it maxes at 180 amps at 1,800 rpm. The voltage is always steady at 14.2, after a 30 second pull the voltage gauge would dip to 10-11 volts, I would stop and after the 30 second recovery it would climb back to 14.2. Everything worked fine except for this 3-4 min pause where it appeared the alternator wasn’t giving any output. It kicked back in and went to 14.2 and the rest of the pull went fine.

I’ll admit I don’t think I really understand the relationship between the batteries, alternator, battery temp sensor, pcm and the check gauges light. Yesterday I was doing a heavy pull with my winch, on 30 seconds off 30 seconds, and my check gauges light came on. The volt gauge was below 8, and I waited a min and it ever came back up. I assumed I’d blown my 200 amp fuse between the alternator and battery. I checked the fuse and it was fine, looked at the gauge again and it was back to charging (so 3-4 mins between check gauge warning and normal charging again). Every component in the charging system is in new/better than stock condition. All positive/ground cables are new, all terminals new, @W-T mod with parallel grounds, 4 gauge b+ cable, 200 amp fuse, 2 new batteries 3 months old and tested. Nations 180 alternator. Grid heaters were not cycling. Ambient temps around 45*. So was the pcm giving a command not the alternator not to charge for a minute, or was the heavy pull getting the batteries so low it just didn’t register? I was watching the gauge closely and when it dropped below 8 it seems to do it instantly which is why I thought I’d blown the fuse. Again, it was a heavy pull but with my ****** blocks I had a 4:1 mechanical advantage that put me well within the specs of the winches rating.

Bummer.

I appreciate it Jag, but I have to admit, the Ambien must’ve hit me hard last night as I was typing that. Wish I could have that one back.

There’s no question EV when adjusted for KhW to gasoline consumption can go further…I Tesla get like 112 miles to the gallon when KWH are converted to fuel. The issue is how the batteries are being manufactured. It’s an extreme environmental looting. 10,000s of gallons of fresh water used just to make one battery. By the time the forced child labor gets the battery buildt and a Tesla lands on the dealer lot, just the manufacturing involved in producing that car has created the carbon equivalent of a modern gas engine that’s has driven 22,500 worth of co2 emmisioms. Not to mention all the cobalt and silver need in these batteries…China holds the world largest strategic reserves of those precious metals , so we are now emboldening out greatest modern threats by giving them even more money. The whole thing is an abomination.’ None of it makes sense until they’re a real a few elites who are wanting to take more and more freedom and more and more control,. Fight back in this guys.

Again, these things happen when partisan politics combined with gutless politicians get in bed with money driven “scientists”. The result is often a mandated solution that either does nothing or makes things worse…the market will work Itself out, we don’t need the push. I can point to dozens of examples, and the mandates will just keep piling on, it’ll never be enough for the wacko activist crowd. Like I pointed out a few weeks back, some states are requiring EPA approved wood burning stoves…you will never be green enough until you’re pushing up daisies. Every day you live, every breath you take leaves a carbon footprint.

That’s a fair point. My goal would be to never have to replace it again, that would defeat the purpose of paying a premium for the billet cover, but I suppose I could ask for an extra oring when/if I buy it. I guess the prudent thing to do is see what kind of shape my stock cover is in when I remove it, if it’s compromised I can do the billet, if it looks good I can keep it and just do a gasket. If I’m just going by reading threads on the forums, this job seems to have a failure rate higher than 50%. That stinks.

I totally agree in principle with that, it’s just that I’ve read many threads of guys that had to redo the job even after being careful. It seems even the slightest dent or imperfection can result in a leak. If the billet cover increases my chances of a successful install then the $200 is worth it to me. I’m also guessing the oring on the billet cover is easier to line up than the gasket?

I’ve had a small slow leak from the Tappet cover for a long time. My plan was to wait until my VP bit the dust and do everything at once, but my VP keeps humming along and the leak has gotten much worse over the past 2 months. I’m thinking about getting the billet Tappet cover from Keating (they are local to me). The reason why is because folks seem to have a higher success rate with the billet covers, and I really don’t want to have to do this twice, especially in the winter. Mike’s write up on replacing the gasket is great, but I’m not a professional mechanic like Mike is. Am I being too paranoid, or is the extra $200 worth getting the billet cover and increasing my chances of a successful replacement?

I need to do some research on this. I’m curious as to how much energy efficient appliances and tech advances like LED lighting have offset electricity consumption (with population growth factored in). I can tell you this though, my electric bill goes wayyy down in the winter because I use natural gas to heat my home. With the grid as vulnerable as it is you’d think it would be all the more reason to NOT pick a fight with fossil fuels, at least until you have the infrastructure in place to meet the countries needs without it.

IPv6:2600:1700:eff0:8130:95fc:5229:cfb6:f98e IPv4: 45.21.135.67

Is the bendix something I can grease?

Quick question: I’ve had this issue once before last year and chalked it up to a fluke, but it’s happened the past 2 days. On cold start in sub 5* temps the starter free spins, it stops, then I try again and it engages and fires right up. Starter is strong, batteries are new and charged and good (tested). The first day of extreme cold (by Tennessee standards) I had plugged the block heater in and the starter worked as usual. Any ideas how to resolve this? Only happens after sitting in single digit temps over night with no block heater.

Where’s the filter housing? Where’s the pump? If your filter housing is in stock location maybe there was enough heat from the block to keep it from gelling, and the fuel lines to the tank are gelled? Could you have gotten air in the line when you were checking the filter? Just theories.