BennyGGG

Great find. A previous owner may have replaced it with a previous version. It functions perfectly.

It’s a 241 DLD

I noticed the 4wd shifter label was incorrect a few months ago and forgot to ask. Anyone have any insight into why this is? All the way forward is definitely 2H but it’s labeled 4L. The order from front to back is 2H 4H N 4L.

Finally got around to checking everything. MAP to ECM rings good and no shorts. Cleaned all the connections with some isopropyl and added some silicone to the rubber gaskets. Took apart the edge EZ. Nearly the entire unit is potted with only a few components visible. Nothing out of the ordinary. I cleaned and siliconed the connections. The problem still has not come back but if it does I’ll update the post. Is there a particular brand of MAP I should consider?

I’ll check all this tomorrow. I appreciate the info.

no codes. Truck is acting normal. I commute to work 2 days a week so I’ll keep the OBD reader running and see if it comes back.

I have the preface this post with: great community here with an insane wealth of knowledge and skill. This forum has been a time and money saver numerous times. All contributors are much appreciated. I encountered an interesting problem on the way home from work today. I had very little “guts” at highway speeds. I normally set cruise control around 70 and have plenty of power to accelerate up to 80+ without hesitation. Today I basically had to floor it and it felt like someone sapped the power right out of her. When I got home I poked around the engine bay a bit. Made sure I had good vacuum connections. Nothing out of the ordinary. I took her back out with my wifi ODB monitor hooked up. The truck was right back to Normal. No issues at all. Plenty of power. Screenshots attached. what do you guys think? What should I be looking for if this issue comes back? Thoughts? I have a full suite of gauges coming in this week. Fuel pressure, EGT, trans temp and boost. Hopefully if it happens again I can have more info to pass along. 2001 2500 4x4 47re leveled on 34s. Engine/drivetrain is stock except for an edge EZ.

After a couple weeks now I’m pretty sure I solved the issue. I replaced the brake light switch that actuates with the brake pedal. No more intermittent issues. As always, Thanks for all the help!

Here’s some data on tested diesel additives. Schaeffer’s “technically”ranked slightly better than 2 cycle when used at 200:1. I guess at 128:1 2 cycle is better. Schaeffers still seems to be a decent additive.

Ive been using Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 for awhile now. I acquired a gallon of the stuff and have read good things. Hopefully that sufficient for anti gel and lubrication of the VP44. I don’t expect anything colder than the teens. At that temp is the block heater necessary?

Taking my first road trip in ‘Betty White’. She’s lived a long life here in SoCal. Is there anything I should worry about or prep for when traveling up to the Utah/Colorado cold weather?

Quick update. Last week I found that several of the wires that connect to the brake light switch had gotten hot at some point. This is still a very new truck to me. There is also a trailer brake controller wired in. Unfortunately it appears to have been installed by a poorly trained ape haha. I left the brake controller installed but will definitely have to take care of that mess soon. As for the wires to the brake light switch, I repaired and heat shrunk them. So far the light hasn’t come back on. I’ll keep you posted.

Doesn’t the parking brake cause the light on the dash to flash?

I saw the switch has “do not reinstall” printed on it. I didn’t want to mess with it. I’ll look into this being an issue. Thanks for the reply.

Nothing out of the ordinary with the rear connector. It was secure. No water, dirt or corrosion inside the connector. The parking brake engages and disengages property. I took the switch out and gave it a quick cleaning. There doesn’t seem to be any excessive slack in the system.