afgunn

Thanks to all! I pulled the bezel today and disconnected the wires and put it all back! All without any new cracks. Now that I have done it, I know how to do it. Isn't that always the way it is!?

http://www.oilcrusher.5u.com/ I replied on a previous thread and was not sure I could find the link but I did, above. This farmer has done his homework AND has empirical data to back it up! After reading this guy's info I would never recommend WVO or SVO to anyone. And I understand the problems with Biodiesel as well. The problem with almost ALL Biodiesel is that they also use WVO - what % - who knows!? Yes, I know they process it but this guy has tested Biodiesel and has found SALT in ALL of it! Salt + heat + close tolerance = big, expensive trouble! Salt can come from fried foods AND animal fat. Yes, you may be OK if you do not tow or haul taxing and heating up your engine... but if you do?! Look out! He has some case examples. I highly recommend reading this guys research!

I have 4" MBRP resonator and muffler on a straight system and happy with it. It will start to drone at about 2100 rpm! I think it would be too loud without the resonator.

I rebuilt some ONE time and then discovered that I could buy the rebuilt ones for only a little more than the kit and save myself a lot of time and frustration. I like to do my own work but I also like to save a lot of time... I already have a full time job.

Yep, I have 3 or 4 cracks in the dash already. If I crack the bezel I guess I will replace it and the dash at the same time!

I have read on several forum of guys doing this for years with WVO or Virgin Oil at a rate of 20 to 30%. I am using an additive of 1:4 gasoline to Virgin Oil at a rate of 128:1 to the diesel fuel. Have seen no problems and no increase in mpg either. I have a lot of info on a farmer in the Mid West pressing his own oil and mixing with gasoline to get the same specific weight of diesel at a given temperature. Has been doing it for years in his trucks and equipment. Says this is the big secret in getting the Virgin Oil to run well. He has done a lot of research and has a lot of empirical data. Esp. data AGAINST using WVO. Here is the farmer's link. I HIGHLY recommend reading his research! http://www.oilcrusher.5u.com/

Anyone tried this in their truck, added to the fuel that is? I had an extra quart the other day so I dumped it in when I filled up so it would be right at 128:1. I got .5 to .8 mpg more than I ever have before! Anyone got any thoughts or explanations? There was no 2-cycle in the tank at all, not even a trace! As I understand it, ATF+4 is fully synthetic.

Straight through MBRP Resonator and Muffler - not sure of the length of the muffler. Quiet enough but will start to drone at about 2100 RPM. Nice and quiet at 1500 - 1600 RPM.

I have the manual but it is "woefully inadequate" in its description of how to remove the Cluster Bezel.Where do you pry, which way and what "tool" do you use to "gently pry" around the perimeter?Does the "band" that joins the cluster bezel to the dash come off or stay?Do you pry between the cluster bezel and the "band"?

I have just install a QuadZilla Scout and am monitoring the CAI temp. I have noticed a 40* to 45*F difference between the overhead temp to the CAI. I agree with all that has been said here. I am planning on removing my "snorkel" to the fender and possibly blocking the hole in the fender well - all while comparing the temps.

Took a 3 hour drive Saturday (mostly at 70 mph) and checked the temps.Transmission pan - 115*FTransfer Case - 138*FBoth are well below the 200*F point where the change interval starts to get shortened.

Draw Straw V is the way to go!

Thanks for your reply and the info! I should have said "shortened life" or "drain interval". I read that the replacement interveral is shorteded when the oil gets above 175*F but it is not shortened by much at 200*F. And... I was not thinking of synthetic or partial synthetics. I got the chart here: http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm

Again, went for a drive of about 50 min. - 50% at 60mph and the rest stop and go at 45mph. Checked the temperature of the Transfer Case and it was 130*F which is well below the 175*F point at which ATF-4 starts to break down. So, I think I am OK. Just surprised it gets that hot but some heat may be coming from the trans.

Anyone know where I can get a 2002 Dodge Ram Truck Repair Manual for the vehicle in the sig? I need the original Dodge manual since I am looking at wiring. The CHEAPER the better!I have the 2001 manual from our "Sister Site" but the wiring and other things ARE different. e.g., I do not have a CAD, 4WD wiring is different, etc.Thanks!