diesel4life

Bilstein 5100 part number BIL-24-185776. Designed for trucks with leveling kits. Excellent shocks.

p1698- No bus message from TCM (transmission control modual) Is this the code you got, or was it a 1693? It's odd you got 2 codes totally unrelated to each other at the same time... Do you have any drivability issues associated with this code? (Irregular shifts, no OD, etc) This says to me there has to be a poor connection or ground somewhere. How many miles on your VP? 0216 shouldn't be showing up on a low mileage unit.

I was referring to the PSG (computer) on the VP. It is imperative to buy a pump with a new PSG, many manufactures use reman and a few offer new PSG. And then there are still a few shops out there that bench test the PSG that comes in on the core VP and if they pass they get used. At least this was still the case as of a year ago with one of the bigger diesel performance parts vendors. I meant nothing toward you in general when i made the remark about people buying cheap pumps, sorry if it came off that way. The pumps themselves are mostly similar as they have to be reman according to Bosch specs but where some places skip corners is the PSG. Since that is the main cause of VP failures it is important to be sure you are getting a new PSG. I am not sure what DAP sells but I'm sure they are good pumps, I'm sorry your having the string of failures you are. That's a tough pill to swallow. At that time frame and being so close to the warranty it's too bad they won't work with you. One of the reasons I went with Blue Chip. Yes his pumps are the most expensive on the market but at less than 3% failure rate you never hear of a failure from them. In most cases it is the last pump you will ever buy.

Also another thing to consider is are you going to be able to source a good standard transmission...just because it's a gear rower doesn't mean it isn't gonna have wear and tear especially if somebody incompetent was behind the wheel. If I were going that far I would be inclined to freshen it up to avoid any problems down the road and the hassle of having to drop it out again. I also would be looking for a NV5600 or a G56 if I were going to do the swap. If your gonna do it you might as well do it right...nothing against the 4500 it is a reliable trans but the 3-4 shift is similar to the tall gearing of the 47re, only you don't have the torque convertor to help keep the rpm's where they need to be. It's hard to compare what your comparing, because in one sense you are getting a fresh transmission, while in the other sense you are getting a used transmission with unknown use and maintenance and in some instances mileage. It can be a bit of a crap shoot what you end up with.

I'm generally not an advocate of automatics but I have a question for you...if your going in for hip surgery are you going to be able to handle the stiff clutch pedal of a standard trans? How about say 5 years from now? (assuming your planning on keeping the truck) Before you go making a big decision like this I would get a good competent trans shop to check it out. Depending on the mileage and use and abuse it may or may not need a full rebuild. You can do a good single disc convertor and valve body for around 1500- 1800 (parts only, and could have the truck back in a day or two.

The engine would probably be able to push it but I'm not sure about down low like you would need. One thing about gassers is they run a lot higher RPM so they will push a turbo under the right circumstances. Turbo cars have become a lot more popular at the drag strip than they ever used to be. The HE351cw is fairly popular with the small block guys but that's a whole nother application being they are looking for top end power and running high RPM. they are a lot harder to launch with, its all about timing along with a high stall trans to be able to get the turbo lit Right before the light turns.

Looking at the other thread you started on the VP, I'd wager your turbo is probably just fine. Take care of the trouble codes first and see how it runs before you tear into the turbo.

The problem is people either don't educate themselves on what their buying or they want to go the cheapest route and buy the cheapest injection pump they can find and wonder why their in the same boat a year or two down the road. The VP44s have actually proven to be very reliable once the initial glitches were worked out but a reman pump is only going to be as good as the builder. Mine has been all over the country east of the Mississippi (and a few places west of it too) and of the 2 VP trucks I've owned and accumulated 250+k miles I've never been stranded.

Also, did you reset the codes to see if they come back? Check for any leaks in the intake and CAC piping? What's your oil look like? Any sign of fuel contamination?

Who did you buy your pump from? The problem is there are still shops bench testing the PSG on the VP44 and if it passes your getting someone eelse's used PSG with unknown mileage and it's a driving time bomb. There are only a handful of shops I would trust to buy a VP where they are sourcing their pumps from a reputable reman shop.

I was referring to tow rating as well. Correct me if I am wrong here, but isn't the 30k GCWR only available with the regular cab 4x2? In no way was I trying to nit pick your site (I sense it is) It is always better to er on the side of safety. I can't tell you how many 1/2 ton trucks I see here during camping season hauling big 5th wheels and TT's.

Mike that is how I understood the calculator, was to plug in the truck GVWR. It didn't specify so I assumed they were asking for the trucks GVWR.

You are correct, they dictate the RAWR.

In my trucks case the tires dictate the GVWR. I haven't followed the new (4th gen) trucks enough to know if that's still the limiting case but I bet it is. I'm pretty sure the highest payload truck is a regular cab 2x4, not a crewcab 4x4.

I understand how they get the ratings, I guess what I'm saying is it's overly conservative IMO. My lower GCWR compared to other trucks of my year are due mainly to the auto trans and gearing but I don't consider the trans a factor since mine has been built to tow. In my case my tires are my crutch. My rear GAWR is 6084 which is based on OEM 245/75/16. My 285/75/17 are rated for 6400 combined, which is still under the 7500 that Dana rates the D70 at. My biggest concern when towing is that I don't exceed my tires, the rest of the truck is more than capable.

I posted the correct numbers. 16k GCWR, 8800 GVW, 7500 scale weight, 190 driver, 300 for extra cargo (tool box with misc tools, chains, shovel, fluids) and 25 gallon aux fuel tank under my tool box. Now playing with numbers I can add/subtract 100 lbs to either the scale weight or cargo and it changes the tow ratings significantly. Strange.

Something is a little off with that calculator. It states I can only tow 6600 lbs. PFFTTT!!!

I bought a set of Nitto Tera Grapplers last year about this time. I was very impressed with the traction in snow and ice. worst winter here since late 70's so it was a good test. The Adventure AT would also be a good choice. I ran the Pro Grade which was replaced by the Adventure and got many years of service out of them and they also have the mountain snow flake rating.

Or you can go here http://m.ramtrucks.com/en/mobile/webselfservice/index.html?ref=/webselfservice/ram/index.html Click on "Your vehicle" and then "equipment listing" and then punch in your VIN and it will tell you exactly how your truck was spec'd from the factory.

Best altenator on the market hands down. These are big in the wheelin and rock crawlin scene. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com//p-6964-mean-green-high-output-alternator-220-amp-dodge-59l-cummins.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw-o6hBRDOmsPSjqakuzYSJADR2V3SApKHfU75-hqL_3BUpFw8Y-pbXHUTLgI3vhVOqqic9RoC6Rnw_wcB

Crawl underneath the axle and look up at I believe the driverside where the axle tube comes into the axle housing there will be a reinforcement webbing and it shoild be stamped D70. If not there look at passenger side but I think it is on the driverside.

Can't tell ya how many times the same has happened with our Beetle, not everyday you see a TDI Beetle in these parts. I found a license plate bracket that says "Yes it's a DIESEL" The wife thought it was cute anyway!

I would be much more comfortable with the way your shop did it than using JB weld.

Are you running any kind of a timing box? (Edge, Smarty, Quad, etc)

Is your fuel pressure gauge new as well? Does the truck start right up after it's been sitting? If not you've still got an air leak somewhere, if it does start right up I would call Air Dog and inform them.