diesel4life

My question is how can you tell at what point an oil filter quits filtering efficiently and becomes detrimental? Once a filter plugs off will it not go into bypass? I obviously am not the guy to answer your questions but it just seems risky to me. Fleetgaurd (Cummins) would be a good filter choice, but I would be surprised if you got any manufacture to promote those kind of miles between changes.

BD Diesel has a good reputation, you would be "safe" taking it there. You may be a lot poorer in the end.... I'm not sure of your mechanical abilities but everything you need to do can be done with a basic set of tools and some spare time. The best part is it isn't a daily driver so you can walk away from it and come back whenever it is conveniant for you provided you have the place to work on it. Just wanted to throw that out there, as I think my first post was taken the wrong way...I was "offering" to come up and take it off your hands, just kidding of course! Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Howr much did they charge you for the cores? I have been thinking of doing the same thing, keep one for the winch on my tilt trailer and one for the tractor,

Your water seperator is a catch all and will collect anything thats large enough to hurt the pump.

My advice is don't touch a thing, I will be up promptly with a tilt trailer to load it up and get it out of your hair....free of charge of course. In all seriousness youve got a real gem there from the sounds of it. If the truck has not been started in 5 years I'm afraid your going to have to drop the tank and get that old nasty fuel out of there. It could very well be crawling with algae, I would want to be able to physically look inside the tank once the fuel is drained to be sure it is clean. Your leak at the fuel tank could be from the sending unit on top of the tank which would require dropping anyway. Going to have to blow the fuel lines clear and install a new fuel filter as well..Would also be wise to do an oil/filter change. Where is the transfer case leaking oil? Could be as simple as a seal, which is very likely given the truck has been sitting so long. Sounds like a beautiful truck, post up some more pics when you get a chance.

That's interesting, I've never seen the guides actually get chewed up so to speak. So you actually had chunks or shavings of plastic in the pick up screen? The new oil pump could have also been a small contributor to the increased oil pressure, although they will generally last several hundred thousand miles being they are a mechanical driven pump. Anyhow, Usually the Guides just break at the bolt hole where they mount to the front of the block, and fall down to the bottom in 1or 2 big pieces and are totally harmless. There used to be a company in California that built custom long and short blocks capable of 400+ horsepower, I always wanted to get my hands on one of them. I actually had an 89 that I straight axled and had a fuel injected 2.8 Out of a Supra with some mild head work. That was a fun little truck.

The #2 your friend is using has to be a winterized #2, or it would gel at around 17 to 20 degrees. Even southern states have a blended #2 during the winter months. Maybe I missed it, but the test appears to be a fuel efficiency/lubricity test only with no mention of any antigel properties. According to the report, the HFRR was improved from 10-60 micron. According to the HFRR scoring standards, a + or - 20 micron change is considered insignificant due to testing variables.

Living in the rust belt I don't even mess with trying to press a bad u joint out. 6" grinder with a cut off wheel, whack the cross out, and the caps will almost fall right out. Torch works good too.

http://www.genosgarage.com/faq.asp Click on the link and scroll down to "change the automatictransmission fluid" It is more thorough than simply dropping the pan, where you will only get about 25% of the total fluid.

I have rebuilt a few 22re's, they are simple and reliable little engines. You did good on going with HD guides, however if the plastic guides didnt trash anything on the way down they would have sat in the oil pan for the life of the engine without doing any harm. Did you check the timing cover while it was off for excess wear marks? I've seen those chains literally rub holes through the cover, once the chain gets stretched enough the oil pressure driven tensioner can't compensate enough and the chain eventually breaks the plastic guides then goes to lunch on the cover. Post some pics up of this beast!

Glad everything turned out OK for you Dennhop, sounds like a scary few moments. Although it likely wasn't your Tom Tom throwing you off course so much as the terrain down there, at least in my experiences. We were in the southern part of W Virginia on A wheeling trip a few years back when my Tom Tom decided to veer us off the main road and up a switch back one lane road. We realized we were headed in the wrong direction a mile into it but with a 24 foot trailer in tow all we could do was press on. We finallymade it to the top of the mountain where the road dead ended into someone's driveway. There was a slew of old abandoned cars and one or two that actually look like they ran. About Then 4 good ol boys caAME pouring out of the little shack and all the sudden we felt like we were in that movie wrong turn. One of the guys came up to the truck and said "I bet Tom Tom brought ya up here didn't he" We all looked at each other and busted up laughing. They told us GPS brought people up there all the time, helped us get turned around and we were on our way. We now use GPS to get us into W Virginia then we use a map to get us the rest of the way.

It seems like the big problem is in the seal of the pump, or maybe the design of the pump, that fails and allows fuel to leak into the mormortar and either kills the motor or causes loss of prime and hard starts when the truck sits for a while. The motors on the Raptors are identical to the AD100 and you don't hear of many issues with them or the 150. My Raptor motor mounted to AD100 pump

Not without seperating them, which is not recomended.

What is the difference between 98-99 and later cross over tubes? This is the first I've heard of this, I installed all new o rings when I did my injectors but used my OEM tubes.

I have heard of a few vehicles in Europe with similar version of the VP44, but is it the same? Being their target emissions have always been different from the US...I guess my original question pertained more to the US anyhow, would be interesting to find it in another vehicle. As far as tractors/equipment, that would be highly unlikely (but I'll never say impossible) as the sole reason of the replacement of the P7100 with the VP was to meet highway emissions. Construction/Ag equipment has always been several years behind highway emissions until recently. I have seen 12 valve engines with the P7100 stuffed in equipment as new as 03- 04, and from there they went right into the common rail fuel systems. Again, this is just what I have seen and am not saying I know the VP44 doesn't exist in anything else here in the states except Dodge and the big brown trucks, I have been curious what else they are in, if any.

I believe the only part that can be damaged by too much fuel pressure is the shaft seal. Push it out and your dumping fuel right down the front of the gear case. Jeeper Jimy, which other vehicles have had the VP44? I was only aware of Dodge trucks and the UPS vans. The VP was introduced to meet the new emissions requirements and as I understood Bosch had little time to do a whole lot of R&D as Dodge was under the gun.

Northern Colorado has its fair share of cold weather, I'm not familiar with where you live but if you get alot of sub zero weather the fuel should be conditioned pretty well for -15. Especially if you shocked it with 911. I have heard horror stories from a guy that drives a tanker for a large company as to some of the short cuts fuel station owners will take to save a buck. Getting a bad tank of fuel is entirely possible. I stick to the same station for all my fuel, I know the owner and he is very particular with the deliveries he takes as well as maintaining his tanks as he owns a large construction company and supplies his own fuel for his equipment and trucks. I recently ran a tank of fuel by accident without adding any antigel and ran through a few consecutive days of below zero weather down to -12 and never had any gelling issues at all. -12 is pretty cold for here so it tells me that he carries a pretty good blend.

How cold is it out your way? Were you able to get the 911 in there and get it mixed in the tank and run through the lines? I've never had to deal with it in my truck, but did have it happen in a CAT 906 on a pipeline I was working on, 2 miles from the nearest road/form of civilization. That was a tough day.

Power Service is a pretty good antigel... I know my brother in law in Wyoming uses it in his truck when he goes to the mountains and has never had any gelling issues in -30 to -35 degree weather. It also lowers the HFRR score so it is better than adding nothing but there are other additives out there that do a little better in that department.

Is two stroke oil?

Any quality anti gel will also have a lubricant in it. What people fail to realize is this is what they have been designed to do...Power Service is readily available at most auto parts stores. Amsoil and Schaeffer's are also quality anti gels. I personally keep Schaeffer's stocked in the garage, it protects against gelling, is a good lubricant and is Cummins L10 approved, and costs as much per gallon to treat as running 2. Stroke oil. Best of both worlds.

But at what percent by volume? Xylene is also found in treated diesel fuel (in very small quantities), and most all fuel treatments.

There is no shortage of gas anywhere period. Fracking has exploded all over the country and we are sending tankers over seas daily. We need it, and we will pay for it.

I've Went Through A Handful Of AftermarkeT Stats And They Have All Had TempSwings Of Several Degrees. Cummins Is the Only StaT That Has Been Consistent For Me. I Tried Several BeforeResorting To The Expensive OEM