keydl

They used to make engines with both a carb and an injection pump, IIRC the CR was around 10:1. Running gas on a cool engine warmed the engine at about 1/2 power then you changed to #2 or #1 fuel and ran normal.Currently the seem to price by BTU content and they say that 1/2 gallon of natural gas and 1 gallon of diesel makes 1 1/2 gallon but then there is the heel. It ought to be price neutral, cost of production covered by the cost of natural gas.I have run gas diesel mix in gas engines, up to 50% in a Jeep OHC 230, that is where it showed signs ..... run on and hard start in the 30's F. When they had trouble with vapor pressure on the gas adding 10% diesel netted a mile per gallon and no vapor lock.

I would drain the oil and replace the filter, cut the filter open if it has been a day or more. If he filter has 'stuff' in it do another filter only in 50 miles or so.If the engine has roller lifters on the cam should be no problem other than deposits knocked loose, for flat lifters remain alert for signs of cam/lifter wear.

Degreasing with Simple Green ( and most degreasers ) mixed with 1/2 water and a wash brush takes off the oil ( and the wax ), no problem with getting into the recesses.They make plastic scrapers for removing tape mounted stuff, I prefer not to advertise. There are also rubber wheels for erasing the residue. Adding a coat of UV inhibiter will make the paint last longer.

The sector lash adjustment is the screw with a locknut opposite the pitman arm. Generally takes 70-100k to show wear. If it is adjusted to tight steering will get much worse, there is a high spot at the center of travel. On used cars I bottom the screw with fingers (no ratchet) feeling for point of contact and back off 1/8 th turn. Stuff that wanders usually has over 1/2 turn of slack. If it is to tight it will 'hitch' crossing center, you will have to drive it with the adjustment backed off to try agin.Book says to disconnect the steering from the box to make the adjustment so as to make the finding the center point and feeling when it is to tight easier.

He has spent over $1.7 million dollars to keep his records sealed. The probable is that the school records include subsidies for foreign students and poor grades.Anyplace but Chicago he probably could not file to run for ANY office on the documents presented.

My take on the smell is that the old diesel smelled, the LSD smelled less and there is little smell to ULSD. Also I have seen NO cloud in the tank on ULSD like the old diesel when the temps dropped below 20F on summer fuel - might be running 400:1 2cycle on a Detroit.

The TPS (throttle position sensor $250 ) is a good possible for part of this,The PCM grounds the lead from the OD shift connector at the top rear drivers side of the transmission. Turn the ign on engine off and see which has 12v and add a switch to ground on the other to prove the transmission is working right. I stopped there but a 5k ohm pot will fool the PCM and let it work near original - it replaces the TPS and is inside the cab.

One of the odd things was a bulb with a short inside, replace the bulb and the fuse quit blowing. Found it with a bit of wire held in place of the fuse for a short time and then felt the wires to see which was much warmer. Took the bulb out for a visual on the socket and could not see filament, so replaced it. Much smaller spark, so I put a fuse back in.

Last week an aquaintance dropped his Mustang on the street with a broken lower ball joint. Some wood blocking to hold it up and a 2# hammer to knock the stud off the spindle, then drive the stud back into the socket and drive the joint out with a jack under the a-arm. Set the new ball joint on the jack and raised the a-arm an inch or so, then drove the a-arm down onto the ball joint. Set the spindle on the ball joint and tightened the nut and put the wheel back on so he could get out of traffic. Next day he did the other side in the driveway.They used press in and thread in ball joints for '93 with the 4k front axle according to the parts book. The parts weight about twice as much as a Mustang

Rockauto has some of the parts on closeout for about 1/2 off.

I got an upper from rockauto.com - about $40 and welded it in. That is what the last repair was but the weld was to only one side. With the remainder of the threads and about 2 1/2 in of weld where a cutoff tool can reach, it could be repaired agin.

My '93 has an 8 sided shape and threads on the upper, a single jack hammer and a cold chisel should knock it loose so you can crank it out with a pair of channellocks.Going back in you can bend a socket out of 1x1/8 th strap, weld the shape closed and a 1/2 in drive onto it. The old one is ugly and makes a good form to bend with.For press in type a short section of pipe for support of the control arm, and disconnect the tierod so the spindle can be tied back out of the way of swinging the hammer to drive the ball joint into the pipe. Going back in the ball joint is supported and the control arm driven onto the joint with a piece of pipe to protect the stud. A bottle jack is an easy way to set the parts aligned. A 2 # hammer makes it possible but a 6 # with a short handle works well.

Cheap food has been a government program from at least the '30s, and it has been raided for momey by insiders repeatedly. The Russian wheat deal - the news that Russia would be permited to buy wheat was surpresed until Cargill had locked up purchase of most of the crop in the mid $3 and the bread cos then bid the remainder past $8. But the farms got almost nothing.

It has to suck air into the pump to generate foam, it could have been low on fluid. A leaky front seal can cause that but it usually shows leak on the ground and the level is low.It will probably need blead to get the air out, moving very slow dial the steering wheel lock to lock 3-4 times starting with the resivore full, stop the engine and refill. Repeat until the fluid level stays full.Sucking the current fluid out is good if you have the stuff to do it, and filling with new. A partial change like a filter change on the transmission.

Remove the oil cooler, cap the oil passages so you can apply air pressure to the oil and dip it in a bucket of water to look for air bubbles.If you are working in freezing weather a couple of gallons of windshield washer fluid is a lot cheaper for washing the oil out of the cooling system without the hard water problem from cold weather. Dishwashing detergent and lemon juice work well for getting the oil, oxolic acid will get all the rust.Check all the hoses inside at least one end for oil damage.I think yours has 2 square o-rings for a thermostate gasket, mine has 1, the RTV may have gotten where it should not be.I have been running a Stant thermostate, below 40F it will give a couple of swings on the temp guage. One of my friends had continual swing that was cured with a $50 Cummins part that has a plastic sleeve in the middle.If you do not know the age of the hoses, it may be well to replace them with the antifreeze.

Stick has a good chance of pulling the drill end, shield the threads with copper to keep the threads clear so the stub will thread out, some No-sieze on the end of the tube helps also.High temp RTV will glue it on, takes a day or 2 to cure above freezing as glue, the cure is water vapor asorbtion.

Over 21 ..........for over 40 years

Lefthand drill bit and a close drill or adapter?Slip a bit off copper tube in to protect the threads that are there and build up weld to weld a nut onmake a guide to center the drill and drill through the broken piece, add penetrating oil at both ends and try the ezout aginWith a guide the bolt can sometimes be drilled and tapped, hard to hit that close freehandWhen all else fails a helicoil or a larger boltA carbide masonary bit can be sharpened to cut a drill or elrctro discharge machine will eat it out

Converting clearance lights to running and clearance.the dim is set with diodes - each drops the voltage .7v to dim the lights, 2 or 3 generally work but some are not designed at 12v.

Check the front wheel bearings - The sensor is in the way of one that is loose.keydl

For a standard truck flasher 1 standard light bulb will flash - the rest can be LED's and will work well. An old 4 terminal ignition ballast resistor will work also, and then there is also the electronic flashers. If you know the wiring well any ignition ballast resistor will work. The 4 terminal is connected front the front turn signal wires to ground.Mounted at the top front of the bed it will be in your mirror, if that makes difference.Mounting small clearance lights under the mirror with foam tape is also a thought, red or amber to the rear and amber to the front.Another one is mounting 'chicken lights' the full length of the truck and trailer that work with the turns. You have seen the chicken haulers on the road with 300 lights on the truck and trailer. Put a voltage regulator on to dim them for running if you want.Truck stops start at $15 for plug in bulbs for the stock lights in LED, cheaper at the parts house. E-trailer had a sale and has the small clear tail/turn stickons - 1 in x 9 in and about 1/2 in high IIRCkeydl may have chicken hauling tendencies

The fluid starts dark, when the tube clears up - the color of new fluid - you should not have air. If the lines have drained - more work.Damaged chevrons can often be proved to R&R a MC by hitting the pedal fast so the damaged chevron inflates to seal.Pumping from the wheels with 20# or so of pressure is very effective for those systems that are resistant. Use a new, clean bleeder screw to pump in with - you do not want the dirt and oil from the underside inside the brake system, They are hard to keep clean when your hands are dirty with oil/grease. If the MC is not level or front down the will be very difficult but will be easy if set front down to reverse pressure bleed. Same with ABS, make it level, by the way it is parked or unbolt it and bend the lines a little to get level.Air bubbles in upward loops of tube will not gravity bleed and can be hard to vacuum bleed but will pressure bleed well at over 40# and reverse pressure at 20#.That is for a shop - if you are out and need an alternative - do the gravity bleed and then bump the pedal 1/2 the way down (fast as possible) and then let the caliper/cylinder gravity the air sucked back out of the system. It may take 3 times or more to clean up but most times 2 tries will get enought pedal to drive it back to the shop. And if you are in the woods water will work to get it back and if the water is removed same day it is no problem. If it is coldenough to cause a hard water problem coolant will also work - just harder to clean out. keydl

I started in my dad's shop, he usually had 10-15 mechanics around - most rented the stalls. Summers were split with grampa who often had as many as 30 cowboys around and my uncle who did dryland wheat.A couple of years of college - thought that I might be an engineer. Earth first, we can mine the other planets laterThe Navy thought that I should repair radars.Pulled wrenches for Coors Cont setting up the 16 oz mech can line that the rest of the industry said could not be done, it is normal now.Built instructional jigs for a tech schoolRan the shop for an AC/Gleaner dealer.I drove truck for awhile and did locksmith work on the side and the locksmith took over.Things are so slow now that I am back to taking mechanic work and an occasional trip - mostly recovery or relocation. Move 5-10 trailers for loading, tire repair- whatever so the OTR drivers don't lose time waiting.keydl

We found the little bug in the JP-1 tanks in Vietnam, caused a few unsked landings. That is where the concept of excellent tank maint practices originated. Boats have the same problem. The same bugs did the cleanup from the Exxon Valdese, just ate the oil. They live at the part line and the dead bods are the problem, plugging filters. They also prove the presence of water that should be removed from the tank. Clean dry tanks do not have biologic growth - yet :)keydl

Adding LED lights to a turn signal is no problem (within your probable budget), running all LED's means compensating for much less amps with -1 an electronic flasher or -2 a resistor or light to draw current.The rubber worklights have acrylic covers to chance the color, red blue green or amber - pointed at the space that is to often occupied by an ignorant person is an economic possibility.Best looking is still the mid trailer turn light in a grommet at the front of the bed, it won't point back at 45 deg like the lights are mounted on the trailer and either type will work.For those that plug in either grease it for corrosion or cut the plug off and do the connection rightkeydl