Deafautotech

it is very rare to find a 12 valves and manual transmission around here in Indiana.... I am prefer 24V 5.9 not 6.7 since 5.9 are non-emissions while 6.7 are EPA and more costly to deleted it.

that is why I had to bought a 2002 dodge ram 3500 cummins with NV5600 that I love manual transmission! I tried to find but mostly are excessive rusts, too much prices, and half millions miles on it... so I found mine near by my home that seller quit driving it for RV haulers. he said I am first buyer to look at it while he got many buyers who want buy it now.. so I decided to bought it... I prefer four wheel not dually but not matter to me. it is much harder to find it as it is texas truck and I had not see any rusts at common spots around before I had bought it. I kept it in my garage during winter time as avoid the rusts and stupid drivers on snow roads.

2wd heavy duty wheel bearings nuts are torque specific at 280 ft lbs. good thing I has 3/4dr snap on torque wrench to do that. also the spindle nuts are not re-use!!!!! get new one nut....

I like apple pie moonshine.... I did taste few of legal moonshines...

I am trying to keep low weight as possible for ease towing like hauling two Harley tourings in 7x12 enclosed trailer but my parents decided to buy many stuffs as cheaper prices in Indiana than Alabama... so they has basic stuffed up my trailer... but that is other reason to have a own trailer and truck that can do much more than what we needed. I don't like to drive f-150 with closer to max weight limited to towing. I am rather has large truck and little big trailer to do than small truck and small trailer for whole much of stuffs in and hit the weight limited for 12 hours trip from Indiana to Alabama...

as for Ram 3500- it is not a re-pack the bearings. it is big wheel bearing assembly that put on... I think it is 41mm socket and need big torque wrench to set it up. Ram 2500 are different as use common wheel bearings that do re-pack or replace it it is not look good or rough.

update: I got it fixed and bled the air out of coolant system, it got heat quicker than before and driving around, it work pretty good but I am take it easy as need to do drive cycles to see what is going on... it was work normal so I returned to customer after it has been parked for month because fought around with Chrysler, century warranty (aftermarket warranty) and used car dept... it had ended up my work's used car dept ate the bills and had me to do it since nobody will do it at my work except me (former Chrysler tech/ cummins diesel tech)... I could get it done soon as I can but my work had stop me few times to do other works and had to stopped and wait for machine shop to return few items that it supposed to be came with cylinder head... oh well customer was glad to get it back and put that truck to working!!! I told customer take it easy as not gun it down the hill!

are you sure it is head gasket?? maybe oil cooler behind of oil filter??

is it a legal to drive over 20 hours?? I was told from US DOT and truckers can drive up to 16 hours then stop for relax or sleep for 8 hours. if not, US DOT or polices can stop them to look at records and figures it out??? I did drove 12 hours straight from Indianapolis to Gulf Shore Alabama but had to stopped for re-fuel my cummins...

what year on ford F550? what is engine inside?? hope you and fire chief a safety round trip to California and Idaho..

I keep my cummins at between 20 to 22 psi depend on weather as it do varies but I kept it above 14 psi during highway...

Update: I did discuss (use video phone) with Schied Diesel shop in Terre Haute, Indiana. they had recommended me to just do studs and cummins head gaskets since they has been do that to newer cummins (2010 to 2013 6.7L) they said many of those came in as some of bolts had scretched or little loose than other bolts... they said customers of cummins had decided to go for ARPs studs and cummins head gaskets, they had reported back as no problems. some of customers decided to do either O-rings or fire-rings when they went for much more works like bigger turbo, injectors, and etc... I told them it is customer that do towing a horse trailer a lot and it is stock as no high performance chips or anything except EGR deleted. they said just studs it and put it back together to ship out...

thank you for a advises. the block tester to see if it has exhaust gas in coolant- it had failed, so it has to pull the cylinder head out which I will do it at my work since Chrysler dealership had refused to do it as warranty because of all emission stuff had removed... the aftermarket warranty company refused to do since said the truck has powertrain warranty but both had denied the warranty claims.. so my work's used car dept has to pay for the works that I will do... I did research around and find more newer cummins has similar issues as I has, some of them has to put a O-rings on cylinder head, and ARP studs... my work had approvaled the ARP and will send the head to machine shop to test it to see if it is ok or not. if it is good, will do grooves on head for O-rings to fit in... I am just want to do that to try not get it blow it again in future like other cummins forums members had did two or three times... it has no chips or smarty. just EGR deleted, emission stuff removed.. it was happened before traded it in.. I am think that as drive pressure may take too much for head gasket since new owner of truck use it as horse trailer and tow hard... so I just want to make it better for this engine to don't have that happen... I had part dept ordered the parts from schied diesel at Terre Haute, Indiana... is the fuel injector tubes as one time use?? I knew the ford powerstrokes has used ONCE then dischard it if it get come off) what do I miss something on parts??

I don't think I has correct compression adapter for. 6.7L since I own a 2002 5.9l and I has adapter for that older cummins diesel.... I would tell aftermarket company to have cylinder head check out by machine shop to make sure it is good or not. But need proof foray before tear it down .

I was told that it is aftermarket warranty company to figure out what to do after I has find out and report back what it will need to do. But I has not make estimate yet because need do few more tests before say it.

hi i am working at largest ford dealership in indiana, customer had bought a used 2012 dodge ram dually with 6.7L cummins as it already had EGR deleted and no catalyic convertor as it had straight pipe. it was traded in like that and new buyer had bought this truck. but the buyer had bought a century service contract. the problem is he are ride it hard and towing hard... now he came in for no heat issue and found out coolant was push out of radiator to fill up the coolant reservior. i did bled the coolant system and filled up to re-test, it would make heat but i has monitor the coolant funnel that it has keep bubbles out and coolant temperature gauge would go increase then decrease as varies. then bam there is cool blowing not heating blow.. i has research around the internet, there is many 6.7L cummins reports of failed head gaskets issues... i am plan to do block tester to see if it has exhaust fume come out of radiator. i would like to see if anyone has suggest or advise so i can have proof what is problem and have independent warranty company inspecter to look at since the Buyer has bought extended service plan... Chrysler dealership across the street from me said it is void the warranty for all emission related missing and said it has cracked cylinder head and need head gasket... i can do that works since i am former chrysler technician and cummins expert at closed chrysler dealership.

That is exact thing happen to me as it had tried to creep forward or reverse also it won't let me get shifter out of the gear when clutch pedal don't feel same. Ii Thanks. I will try do master/ salves assembly

I am plan to ask both Chrysler and napa to see what is difference of price.

Should I go for oem as Chrysler part dept ( I work for ford shop but Chrysler is next door) I worked for Chrysler 5 years before laid off in 2009. I has friend who work in Chrysler part dept that I can ask and see how much for it. I know south bend company but I don't know if they would get a part come to me quicker as next day?? I am not feel comfort to try fix it and drive 410 miles north then it is cause a problem??? I am plan to do road test if I get a part ASAP.

It is feeling like common clutch pedal that I could feel like press the pressure plate to release the clutch. When it was happen, it felt like there is not enough to press the pressure plate complete. I am plan to take my snap on videoscope to look in flywheel housing to see what is look like. Right now it is feeling like it is work fine then bam there is not enough on clutch pedal. Once I tried it again, it is work fine. It just started today but this time it get worse. I could smell the little clutch burn while I had hold the brake or drive through my garage door... Which I had to shut it down. Then tried the clutch pedal again, it was work ok. It seem like it is intermittent??? - - - Updated - - - I am feeling like it has been good pedal then act like missed pedal but I felt like it only had half way. So should I go for complete master/slave assembly that I don't need bleed since I live alone at my home/garage.

I am not worry about money but big problem is I was plan to take my cummins as towing a trailer for my vacation to Wisconsin. But now I has no time to do it as I am work full time and has prepare for vacation time this Friday morning. I has look at master slave cylinder and it seem like new fluid in and clean. It was work fine but very little time it made me felt like something wrong with clutch pedal as feel like it was not full to floor.

It was just happen to me when I got to my garage from my work. It was work fine until I got to my garage then it act like clutch are stuck. I am go check the salve cylinder to see if fluid are low or leak. I am not know if clutch had replaced before??

I am want see if that is correct way of clutch go bad on my nv5600 as I had press in clutch and shift work fine for while but when I got to my garage, clutch act little funny and shifter would not let me shift out of gear since it keep move so I had to stop it and there is a small clutch burn smelling so I had turn it off( I did cool down before enter my garage) is slave cylinder go bad or clutch system go worn out? It has 208k and I don't know of it had replaced before?? If it is clutch then I will jack up the truck in garage and leave it as is while I am go drive jeep liberty as I don't have a time to do that now. I am supposed to go on Friday morning at 5am to go Wisconsin.

Thanks again. I just concern and don't want ruin it. I am just get ready to make a vacation trip to Wisconsin dells, Wisconsin for a week.

My garage are not heated so it will go to zero temperature inside if outside are below zero temperature...