oldbeek

Leak test sniffer worked great. Leak at the low QD. That said, is there an after market cap with a good seal? My low side plastic cap has threads stripped off. Probably stripped by the many dealer mechanics. Going to see if a new tight fitting cap solves my problem. Mike keeps saying to reseal the couplers. That looks like a hell of a job. Sniffer says no leaks at couplers. Time will tell.

Under the UV light, that is what mine looked like also until I washed it out. Thanks for the answers. I went on e-bay and found a sniffer for $46.00 delivered. It had several good reviews. One was from an AC shop. I will let you know what I find.

2001 2500. Has a leak since new. Dodge had it in 12 times in the first 5 years. I finally gave in and got a charge kit. Back then it needed a chg every 6 mos. Now it is up to every 30 days. Tried some canned stop leak. Tried dye and black light. finding nothing. Is there a hi teck sniffer leak detector that could be rented? Can not see into the interior ac compartment. How likely the leak to be in there? Checked for dye around compressor and all connectors and every line except the wrapped lines. Any help?

ANd today it is gone again. I will hook up the OBD reader and erase codes just in case??

Exactly 30 days later, 6-19-15, I set a code o122 again. Truck runs great. ??? What would you do?

I put the same set up in my 1st generation 3500 with 4.10 gears. Fuel mileage did not change at all in any gear. I carried extreme loads over a 6% 3 mile grade and the gear splitting was the only benefit. Waste of money and more junk in my drive train.

Ordered an obd11 reader. Next morning, code was gone. Did I read somewhere that after 20 starts without the malfunction returning, the engine light and code will disappear? I really appreciate all your help. I retired from fleet maintenance in 1997 and all this drive by wire throws me. I am trying to keep up.

Come on guys. Do you pack your front 2wd bearings with grease? YES. Do they go out from no lube? NO.. As a hd truck mechanic for years axle bearings were grease packed. We always grease pack drive axles, even though diff oil will get into the bearings eventually. Those rigs would immediately go back to work with a 9,000 lb load on each axle. No time for break in. The newer trailer axles would not get packed because the hub cap has a fill plug to pump in the 90 wt oil. THe oil will eventually get into the greased hubs. Our bearing inspection interval was 200,000 miles.

Ok if it needs changed, get a Timbos. I am convinced. Why do I get a code but truck runs fine. How do I erase code to see if it comes back again? If I do need a Timbos, what vendor do you recommend or is it sold direct.

on e-bay there are TPS from 165.00 Timbos to 20.00. What is the difference?

what is an apps reset?

Have set a code 0122 but the truck is running fine. Researching the TPS and it is not very expensive. What is the difference between a TPS with a harness and one without a wiring harness? Both listed for a 2001 diesel. Now to replace it. I think it is behind the housing with the cables that control the throttle. What needs to be removed to get to it? Last question is should I dive in and replace it and how do I reset the trouble codes?

Should have said I have had a slow leak problem since new. Usually add a can twice a year before it gets to low. Jumpered the low press switch and clutch engaged. Added 2 cans. Cools great now. Dealer had it 12 times and couldn't find the leak. I have tried the leak ck Freon with dye. No help. Anyone try the R134 with stop leak? Are there leak detectors that I could rent? Thanks for your help

Thanks ! Gives me another place to start looking.

Did continuity with ohm meter through clutch and (I think hi limit switch ? near compressor on hi side tube) Applied 12v to clutch. It engaged. 10 amp fuse ok power on both sides. Where is low pressure switch? Have pressure on low side. Where is the AC relay found? where is low pressure sw found?/ is there a scematic?

My ac quite working. Clutch not engaging. Checked for a code. None found. Checked continuity through hi pressure switch and clutch circuit. OK Checked clutch physically with external 12 volts. Clutch engaged. Any suggestions?? Where can I find a schematic of the ac circuit?

I just pulled the factory temp sender, left it taped up in the chassis with factory wires attached and installed the ispro sender in that port on the trans to cooler line at left front od trans.

183K on mine and still going. At 125K before I found this site the lift pump press was so low the truck hardly ran. Guess I am lucky it didn't die back then.

As for the transmission, you need the trans lockup mod for 2nd gear climbing hills. Recently added it to mine and love it. I highly recommend Mojave Green torque converters.

the hub on the curb side will always run warmer. As does the tire and wheel. More load on the lower side. Use new self locking nut. Torque to 150# and back off 1/4 turn. Drive in the keyway lock.

my 2001 has a torque spec for a new self locking nut that the nut is to be tightened to.

Thanks, I will rewire it with a relay.

The little slice of tubing is expensive because they have to stock it for those that have not learned the lesson. Cut your own. Sorry, your day in the learning bucket. I have had many of those days in 73 years.

I use my boost pressure to drive with. (Example) When pulling and boost reaches 15 my 47re is going to shift. If nearing a crest in a hill I will back off slightly to avoid the shift. If I have a lot more hill out front, I will shift manual. Pyrometer is not needed unless you have fuel mods on your engine.