oldbeek

the pump at idle is 22psi. 6 psi drop and still 16 psi at the inlet banjo (WOT) with a direct connected hydraulic gauge.

The 5/16 line banjo bolt at the pump has an area of .023 sq in.,, A 3/8 is .069 sq in. which is a 66% improvement in flow restriction. All the 3/8 fittings and lines are larger yet. Just saying for a guy on a budget, with a stocker, 3/8 is big enough.

I put a 100 on mine 7 years ago. I put a 3/8 in line suction screen before it(Donaldson #P550974) and increased my lines to the pump to 3/8. It has down well ever since with a pressure drop of 6 lb at WOT pulling hard. I am stock with rv275 injectors. The suction screen is just an in line can, but I also use them on my 400 hp cat grader that sucks 9 gallons an hour. Going overboard on huge $100 dollar suction filters is nuts. Just my opinion. My typical load hauling my 5r is 19,700 gcw.

Problem righted its self this morning after a few starts and stops. I will ck the ohms on that ground wire while it is being correct. Thanks for the answers.

I went to rv-275s in my stock 2001 2500. I pull a combined weight of 19,400. They smell like it runs richer at idle but on long hauls it gets 13.5 mpg as versed stock I got 12.5 pulling my load. This milage is a average pulling out west. Everywhere I go there are mountain ranges to go over. One place I go every month there is a steep hill right from a dead stop. I used to just hold the truck in second to the top of the grade. Now I put it in drive and it has enough HP to go through the gears into high.

You answered this question previously and I found in on the cummins forum. You supplied a wiring diagram and said I probable had a code P- 0118. Very helpful to have a schematic. What should I find at pin 11 from the ecm? Full continuity? I have 3 years experience in auto elect but it was 1966-69. I will do some checking and get back to you with results. ALSO,, goes to 240 with sensor unplugged.

2001 2500 2wd auto cummins. Out of the blue while everything seems to be OK. Temp 180 checked by laser heat gun. The check gauges light comes on and temp gauge goes to 240 in about 10 seconds. Turn it off and back on temp slowly raises to 240. This happened as soon as I started it and engine is cold. Last week the ck engine emoji came on and water in fuel. I drained the filter and saw no water. ???? Bad ground?? anybody seen this happen?

My truck has a rattle near or in the steering column. I thought this will be easy. Removed most of the plastic on that side. Expected to find a wire bundle rattling on the plastic. Had it apart twice. Any ideas. I know this is a stretch.

USFS (forest circus) has miss managed the forest since 1936, just worse now. No grazing, no selective timber removal, nothing. When the do cut, they do extensive environmental studies that cost more than the tree cutting. Then they say it costs so much to do the study, they don't have the funds to authorize any future cutting. If they do authorize grazing, there are more rangers assigned to moniter the grazing than their are cattle.

Call Valco transmission in Littlerock CA. He makes the billet tripple disc Mojave Green torque converter.

You say you want a little more power and then you say you want between 450 & 600 hp. Trans will be trash in a week. May as well start there... Now if you want a little more power I would recommend RV275 injectors. They will boost your stock from 230 to 275. I am in CA so my truck is stock except the billet trans mod. RV 275 gave me 1 mpg better towing and empty. I tow at 17,600 gross combination, a tall wind resistant 5r.

Your AN hose installation looks to be high quality but expensive. I spent about 3 months considering how to do it the cheapest way. I remember when shop hourly rate was $6.00. On the road charge for diesel repair was $12.00. We were raking in the cash.

Try a Mojave Green TC. Billet tripple disc, gored stator. 1150 lock up. They are in Littlerock CA. It is now a one man shop but he has 1/2 million in equipment in that shop. He also built my trans with a shift kit and mod for 2nd gear lockup. I used this shop when I was a fleet manager for 1200 vehicles including Allisons at LA County. NEVER had a come back. Shop name is Valco Transmission. They build TC and ship to your specs.

I am an old farmer and want things cheap and simple. I don't watch the pressure guage constantly and don't need to. So this is what I did. Got an oil filled 0 to 60 heavy duty gauge from a hydraulic supply. ($30.00) gage has 1/8 in back fitting. Drilled a hole in the floor to the right of the fuel pedal by the heater outlet. Went under neath put a 90 degree to 1/4 in tubing compression. Ran 1/4 in truck air brake tubing directly to the pump inlet. Installation done. Always carry a flashlight in center console. That is my lighting. I look down occasionally when using the truck. I always ck my pressure before starting a heavy haul. What more do you need.

Ok where would you buy a VP44? Is Vulcan selling a good rebuilt product? Mine has 190k on it and I want to be prepared to buy one if it goes out.

Near stock.RV275 injectors, no tuner

I am cheap and do not spend more than needed. I installed a raptor 100 on the frame with a push on 3/8 screen (P550749) Vulcan. NO new drop tube. Bought a tapped (tab) banjo for the pressure gauge which is manual and 3 push lok banjos (B1206) from Vulcan. I drilled all banjos out to size of the tapped banjo. Ran 3/8 hose clamp line all the way to the pump. The pressure gauge is a 30 psi oil filled mounted through the floor on the transmission hump fed by 1/4 in nylon tubing. This set up is a 294% improvement from stock. I set my pump to 18psi at idle. I have 13psi at full throttle on a 6% grade pulling 18,000 gvwc. I change my fuel filter at 20,000. Spend more if you like, but this worked for me. PS , Stay away from QD fittings. QD's are not made for suction.

No tuner. The are a hassle when smog ck time here in CA.

I asked many times what I could do to increase my performance on my 2001, auto. Being in California I can not run a tunner without headaches at smog time. WELL, truck got to 200K and I decided I wanted to change injectors as I am keeping the truck the rest of my life. Eric at Vulcan performance sold me a set of new RV275s. WOW! What an improvement. More power and milage. They improved my milage by 1.5mpg, from 12.5 to 13.9 or 14. Pulling combined load of 19,500 lbs. First thought this was favorable winds but after several trips with real hard 6% grades I am convinced that they are really great.

I bought new RV275s from Vulcan.I beleive he said they were Bosch. 5,000 miles on them and I am very happy with them. 1mpg bump in mileage loaded or empty. Nice boost in power also.

On a CAT site recently there was a CAT service topic that stated that all hard start problems with low fuel in the tank was always air getting into the return line. Air in the return line will allow the complete fuel system to drain back to the tank. Just passing it on. It made sense to me.

After the engine was changed, it was found that the turbo seal was sucked in. The owner did not mention that after the oil change he loaned it to his 22yr old nephew to haul a big power boat back from Lake Mead. The kid mentioned, when questioned that it did smoke a lot but he thought it was just making power. It was the next day that the old man was driving to his farm when the engine seized. Oil light? The old guy just gets in and drives. Mystery solved!

Did my old 3rd gen after 4 yrs of oil leaks. It was much easier than i though it would be. May be harder on later models. Just jump in and do it.

E-bay ------ 12 volt relay. 80 amp relay with socket $5.00 shipping paid from new jersy

Just returned from 2000 mile trip. Lots of wind, lots of grades in the eastern sierras, GCW 20,150 with loaded 27ft 5r and a quad trailer on back of that. Speed 65 mph. NO tuner. New rv275s from Vulcan performance. 13.5 mpg on paper. My around town went up 1 mpg to 18.5 over stock injectors. My past mpg was 12.5 with a 18,500 gcw over 12000 miles to AK. All of Canada and most of AK is 55mph. I would recommend rv275s for a nice stocker upgrade.