oldbeek

Do you hang it on loose so it can open a little to limit waste and increase pressure?

This turbo is weird. There is a steel tube between turbo compressor and the gate actuator. I have studied the turnbuckle fix and the J-Hook from bullydog that adds spring tension to the gate. Are there any more options? Will more boost help me at stock without investing in a tuner to add more fuel? I know I will need at least a boost fooler.

This turbo has the steel tube from turbo to waste gate actuator. Is there a way to get a small boost increase?

Well it is done. The teck also reversed the converter timing valve and spring as mentioned in the article. Seems to shift hard 4 to 3. Did he need to do the valve reverse? Anyway, I took it out to a long steep grade that I used to pull in !st to keep from heating oil. Pulled selector into 2nd and accelerated up to 2000 rpm then locked converter. Pulled most of the hill at 2700 rpm except the last 1/4 mile it lugged down to 2000. Trans temp at top was 190 going to the cooler and engine was at 210f. This was with a combined load of 17,900#. Mission accomplished!!!

Probably best would be to mill a flat bottom hole down into the passage and then insert a aluminum dowel pin that is the proper length. My trans shop is really doesn't like the JB Weld idea and may do this. He has the VB out today. Hope to report back in a few days.

Packbrake literature says it will do 2nd gear lockup. BUT, with further investigation it only locks up in 2nd on 48RE trans. Also found BD and Suncoast sell a rebuilt valve body for 47RE with a propritory secret modified valve body that will lockup in 2nd which ALSO needs a mystery switch I think we know their secret.

How many miles on it? They do wear out. A little tilt from wear and they will throw the belt right off. The one on my 1994 went bad at 125K and really left me stranded in the mountains, so now I change them at 125k whether needed or not.

I like titan laboratories. They sell a sampler valve that you just plug a needle (ball pump needle) into with the engine running. (1/8 in pipe on the engine side). Get a clean sample every time. Their analysis is much more detailed than most others.

I had a 4x4 differential rebuilding business. What I saw was the lock out hubs allowed the differential to not turn. The differential carrier would rotate to the heavy point and just stay there. The carrier bearings would be damaged by continued pounding in the same spot. The effect is called railroad knock. Lock out hubs never repay their initial cost with fuel mileage improvement, and they help destroy your carrier bearings that are mucho expensive to replace. My 4x4 has hubs but are never used except when tow bar towing.

My ad100 needs readjusting from time to time. Last adjustment stated for 8 months. I think in your case, the regulator is sticking open. Shutting it off resets the regulator valve seat. on restart pressure is back to normal.

1/4 turn will add 4 to 5 pounds. Don't start cranking it in and blow a gauge like I did way back in the beginning.

Thank You. Now it is finally perfectly clear.

Ok. Now I know exactly how it will work. Another question! Some other forums seem to indicate all that is needed is a switch that supplies a ground to the lock up solenoid and locks the converter. I have tried this switch and it does nothing. Our forum indicates that a valve body JB weld mod is needed. Why do the other forums other than cummins diesel forum not mention the valve body mod? Am I missing something?

I have years of experience in heavy equipment but never worked on automatics and kept seeing different posts that kept me wondering what this mod would do. Thank You, your explanation is as clear as it can get.

I have browsed ever post on 2nd gear lock up. I am still confused! I didn't have the mod done when I recently had my trans overhauled because I wasn't sure what I could expect from the mod. Just read a post where the person said the truck would continue on into 3rd when in lockup. Will it do this if I have the selector in 2nd? I have a triple disc converter and a stock input shaft. I can't afford any surprise hard shifts when in lockup under a hard pull (13,000# load). I want to use 2nd lockup only to use it with selector in 2nd, then unlock before shifting to higher gear at the top of the grade. Will it do this? It would be most helpful if someone with the mod could explain EXACTLY how it shifts and is used. Thank You

I have taken my regulator apart and inspected it. I see no difference from the fixed spring and shim regulator. The pump is located on the frame right below the drivers seat. Handy for readjustment.

My gauge, is a liquid filled test gauge plumbed to the vp with 1/4 inch polly. The restrictor is a solder filled fitting drilled out .020

Pressure setting changed a few times when it was new. Now one year old. Noticed pressure getting lower but pressure dropped below 10 towing a heavy load. Fuel filter plugged? Stopped and changed filter. Nope, wasn't plugged. Readjusted pump up to 21psi not running,18psi at idle. Pulling load now at 15 psi. Thought this readjustment thing would end with age.

2001 2500 single rear wheel with 5r hitch and fuel only.= 6400#

At one time I had a side business rebuilding Dana differentials. For a seal driver I used exhaust tubing with a soft plug welded on one end and a large washer welded near the other end to get a nice straight drive on the new seal. For a pinion holder I used a 5/16 x 3 inch flat bar 3 ft long. Burned a hole in one end for the largest socket needed and drilled a variety of holes that align with various yokes. This can be bolted directly to the yoke. This gives very good control when removing and torqueing the pinion nut.

Yep, Wired up the mystery switch just as shown in the Truck Shop site as described above. It did nothing. Just had the trans built and the shop I used was not crazy about the J B Weld plug. Soo! I am back to what I have done for the last 165K miles. On steep grades I will go to 1st. On the last trip after the trans and converter build, my wife even griped about the 30mph on hills. She says tape up those damn gauges and drive. That is what got me going on this 2nd lock up thing again.

How is your mystery switch wired ? I am not doubting you. I am just trying to sort through all the various info. My trans shop says all I need is the mystery switch but it will set a code. The truck shop internet site shows using a 33 ohn resistor to not set a code. Truck shop site does not mention a mod on the valve body. I only want to set the selector in 2nd, get rpm around 2000 and lock the converter to climb a grade then flip the switch off when I top the hill. In the past I would stay in 1st but max speed is 30mph. If I go into 2nd trans heats immediately.

Why is it that the pac brake can lock up the converter in 2nd without modifying the valve body. Another site shows grounding the #7 wire on the trans. connector (lock solenoid) through a 33 ohn resistor and switch to ground. The info on many different internet site is very confusing.

Trans pressure was low causing several problems. It did need the rebuild at 165k miles with 50k miles loaded to 17,600 lb with my 5r. The shop I used manufactures the Mojave Green converters. Billet triple disc with lots of good stuff inside. Google it for more info. Shifts a little harder now and locks up around 1100rpm. I feel more confident now.