Utah Dually

I do lots of race engines using head studs. I don’t understand the torque relax torque thing. What is important is heat cycles between torturing. On a race motor we torque the head studs, in equal steps, usually three steps. Heat cycle the motor, let it cool, re-torque, heat cycle the motor a couple more times, then re-torque one last time. I am over kill with the three or four heat cycles. Most guys only do it once and never seem to have issues. I can’t see where a diesel would be any different. Studs aren’t that big a deal. Don’t over think it. By the way, ARP studs have rolled threads, not cut threads. Take a close look at them and you will notice it. It is a good idea to chase the holes with a chaser tap just to make sure you remove anything that could be a contaminat. If you still have the head on the motor, don’t worry about it, go for it. Don't use a regular tap meant to cut threads, because it will. That opens the threaded hole up more and makes it sloppy. You can purchase a chaser tap on line at Summit or at most parts stores. Local tool stores should have them. A good item to have laying around in your box. After you use it, paint it red so you don't use it as a real tap. LOL

As a drag racer one of the most important components of the combo is the converter. 300 RPM difference in the stall can make all the difference in the world. Of course my converter stalls at 6200 RPM.. The car will perform totally different if it stalled at 5900, or 6500...

One thing about diesels, they respond to decreased exhaust resistance way more than gas motors. When I put the 4” exhaust on my truck it really woke it up. I could see if you have been running a straight pipe, putting a muffler on would be like throwing a 1000 lbs in the bed.

You want to make sure you have about 3/16 clearance - between the flex plate when the converter is pushed back into the pump all the way. If it is more than this, then use a washer between the converter pad and the flex plate. If using a standard off the shelf washer I would suggest getting a hand full and miking them so they are close the the same thickness. If you have too tight of a clearance between the flex plate and pump you could kill either the pump, or the thrust bearing on the crank. If the clearance is too loose you run the risk of not having enough engagement with the front pump. I would also advise that you recheck the tightness of the converter bolts after you run it for a few hundred miles.

So my truck is very close to yours… I do have a 5 speed, BHAF, and a 4” exhaust and tow a trailer that is about 9K. Most of my towing is at altitude and when I go up a steep grade in 5th it doesn’t take long at all for the EGT’s to climb to above 1200. I am very conservative in my approach to towing and will grab a gear to keep the temp at 1100 at the most. I could care less if the Yota passes me because I know at 100K that thing will be toast and mine will be running strong. I very seldom have to get below 4th. I do notice that just a little bit of throttle makes a big difference in EGT temp. In 4th going up a grade it the EGT’s start to climb, if I back off the throttle just a tiny bit I won’t lose MPH, but the EGT’s will go down. I drive more by the EGT gauge than the speedo. When I am just crusing on flat ground I try to keep the RPM’s right around 2100. That is just over 70MPH with the 3:54 gears. That seems to be the best compromise between speed and gas mileage. My racing buddies go roaring past me sometimes but I get to Boise from Salt Lake only about 30 min behind them with way better mileage and never blow a trailer tire. This is a big picture thing for me. I want this truck to last. So your idea of slowing down a bit isn’t a bad option.

I just want to clean up each terminal and cable end before winter. I assumed if i took one at a time off I would be ok, but this is the first truck with dual batteries for me.... So I would rather appear a bit dense, but get the correct information before I goofed up. Thanks guys, as always.

This might seem like a stupid question but I would rather ask it than suffer a bad out come. I understand if you disconnect the batteries completely, you have to then reset the APPS when you connect the batteries back up… Yes, No??? If I want to clean the terminals, do I lose battery power if I only do one terminal at a time on one battery while leaving the other one hooked up?

Thanks guys.... I will do that... The price of Diesel is coming down so it might be a good time to fill the big tank up...

I could use some advice on storing my truck this winter. Unfortunately I have to store it outside in the Utah winter. I put a battery tender on the batteries and that has worked well in the past. The real question is the fuel. I have a 98Gal tank in the bed, which is out of the weather via an industrial topper. Should I fill up the tank? Should I burn out all the summer fuel and put in winterized fuel? Is there an additive I should put in the tank? What is the best way to take care of the fuel system while it sits in the winter? I don’t drive the truck in the winter because they use salt on the roads, and I want this truck to last until I am gone…..

I think the fuel pressure drop is to be expected depending on how your fuel system is hooked up. If you are pulling the pressure off the pump, and have a big line kit to the stock filter, and not from the filter to the pump, you will see a drop in pressure when at WOT or pulling under load. As long as the pressure isn’t dropping under 10LBS you should be fine. I think this characteristic diminishes greatly when the stock filter is eliminated and the big line kit runs straight to the pump.

I had issues with the convex mirror in the corner when I first installed mine. Now that I have gotten use to them, and trained my eyes where to look, I couldn't do without the convex part. The convex part lets me make sure I don't have any blind spots. I keep mine flipped up all the time. Even when I am not towing.

I am glad you got the old girl fixed up. I have enjoyed following this thread. Cheers

Towing up to Boise from Salt Lake is where I go the most of the time. I go up to Firebird to race a few times a year. Funny thing about towing to Boise from Salt Lake is it is uphill and in to the wind both ways..... LOL

What amazes me is how little I have to back off the throttle in 5th to lower the EGT while not losing much MPH… If you leave the cruze on the throttle will go to the floor and the EGT’s will climb like crazy. If it does start to lug a bit, I always grab a gear. Funny, since I put my gauges in last year I tow more by the EGT than I do by the speedo. So is my racing partner going to smoke his new Dodge if he keeps towing like he does. He doesn’t have gauges and thinks I am nuts. His trailer is almost 3K heavier than mine.

Just wanting to get some ideas on how hot to run the truck towing up hill. I pull about 8K and when I start climbing the EGT goes up past 1100 and I get worried. So I find that if I back off the throttle just ever so slightly I don’t lose that much speed, but I can keep the EGT from climbing above that. If it starts to go higher, I grab a gear and try to keep it at 1100, and always below 1200 or below. My buddy with his new Dodge just puts the throttle to the floor, rolls a bunch of coal, and blasts over the hill. He gives me a bunch of crap for being so slow, which I am really not. I tow at 2100 RPM’s which is about 73 MPH, and hardly ever drop below 60 going up a long climb. After all, trailer tires are only rated for about 65 MPH. Am I being too conservative? I want my truck to last a long time and am trying to not abuse it. Any input from you guys that tow a lot?

Thanks for the reply.

Did you sell the shield? I would be interested....

Thanks again guys. I do like the clutch safety switch idea. I do have an alarm, but there has been a rash of race car/tow rig thefts around the country lately even when the rigs and trailers had alarms and GPS locators. Some how the SOB's know how to get around alarms. Not to mention that car alarms have become the urban crickets. No one pays any attention to them anymore. If an alarm is going off in a motel parking lot, nobody cares. If they want the rig, they are going to get it. I am just trying to make it as hard as I can. I am just trying to make it hard for the amateur and perhaps slow down the professional long enough for me and Mr. Wesson to show up.

Very nice.... Thank you so much for the suggestions. I think I will do the ground wire to the fuel relay idea. You are the man...

Lots of guys are getting their race car rigs stolen. There seems to be a rash of them going on. I have to park my rig at motels when traveling and was wondering if pulling the fuel relay would be a good thief deterrent? Would it screw up anything doing it several times a year? Or does anyone have any other good easy anti thief ideas?

I will say do the exhaust. When I did all the mods to my truck, which aren't much, the addition of the larger exhaust is what really woke that puppy up. I tow a 20' trailer right at 9K and the exhaust with the EGT gauges are a big help making sure I keep the truck within a safe range in the hills. Do the exhaust, you won't be disappointed...

Ok I said I would never do this, but here we go…. Reading about some of these “Tuners – Programmers” that just plug into the OBDll, and you don’t have to “tap” anything, my brain is asking me the age old question – What could possibly go wrong? (Hold my beer) LOL…. In everyone’s humble opinion what is the best way to go. Seems like you can get ones from 300 that have three programs, to a Smarty that has six, any opinions? (Silly question) I do get confused when reading about the programs, especially concerning timing. How do you figure out what is best for driving around town (yes I do like spirited driving) and for towing? I am very conservaitive when I tow and try to keep the exhaust temp down, but would like a bit more power. I would assume you would have to switch back and forth with something like the Smarty before taking off on a trip?? Sorry guys, this is one subject that I just haven’t gotten my head into yet… Never say never...

Me either, but when you buy a used truck, you take what you can get. I bought this last year and it only had 67,000 miles on it. It is like a new truck, so I wasn't going to complain where the brake controller was....

Joe Cool - What is wrong with Duallys? I have always had duallys.... If nothing else they look bad a$$. Love them for towing....

My current box is mounted just behind the gear shift and the beverage tray.