rancherman

Agreed. When I was a wild buck, and snowmobiled everywhere in the 70's, My old dependable Polaris Colt went everywhere on NO filters, in fact I don't remember any snowmachine in that era with a filter.. maybe an airbox for sound. Snow back 'then' was clean! LOL

I was taught to keep the idle @ or slightly above 1000 in our tractors at an early age, and then it's for when you jumped out to pee, or open a gate. Not for letting her run while you ate dinner in the house. We figured when you dropped below 1000, you can see this is where OP drops off considerably.. and hitting 1000 again brings the op up to normal. But then, how many of us older lads in here remember the 'low idle' feature in semi trucks of the 70's? I sure do, those things when at the rest areas would be barely ticking over. 2-300 rpm?? This is when the driver was asleep in the sleeper, probably to keep warm or cool. Now, since I was a kid in the 70's, maybe I was not aware of a cylinder shut down system. perhaps they were shutting down half the cylinders.. and it SOUNDED like they were running half the rpm. I dunno.. It'd been pretty easy with the ol pushrod type injectors, and the jake system.. As far as the KN.. they belong on 2 stroke engines! chainsaws, bikes, snowmobiles. most every diesel engine I own is double filtered, for safety sake! If the outer filter is damaged, I still have the inner..

My old farm house has an old Lennox wood furnace, circa 1930. It was strictly a gravity type ducted heating system. When we first moved on the place in 1982, it hadn't been fired for several years, and I really had no idea if it would work. Well, soon found out there was several expansion joints in the heat exchanger, which probably had a asbestos type rope jammed in. I used a similar type gasket for wood stoves, and took a chisel and pounded the new stuff into the joints. This thing is pretty much solid boiler plate, riveted and bolted together... and it's surrounded by a sheetmetal duct. Hot air goes out the top into 6 ducts running thorough the house, and one huge duct bringing the cold air back. This air goes in the bottom of the sheetmetal... to be reheated and distributed. When that thing first fired up, I was amazed at how much air was moving! it would actually 'blow your hair back'.. when standing over the in-floor grates! That old house didn't have an ounce of insulation, but I could easily keep it 90 degrees in there on the coldest day... It just took wood like a herd of beavers.. Point being, Joe, with a little ingenuity, you could rig up a way to keep your lower/cold air from upstairs separate from the rising hot air.. and have a heck of a gravity system. If you could use the stair well for your cold-downward moving air, and get the hot air rising and not mixing with the air coming down your stairs.. ( you'd probably need more than just cutting a hole in the floor, probably some sort of 'bonnet' over the stove to capture most of the rising heat, and then ducted/ funneled up into the house. It's a snap to make this work when most of the heat is needed vertically.. you'll need fans upstairs to get it moved to further rooms. My old house had it's hot air going up through the center of the house, and the cold air returns was along the outside walls. It did a fine job mixing the heat pretty evenly on it's own.

lol, Yes, but THAT girl, 'Copenhagen Angel' never even spit!

Ok. I understand that now. thanks. So, what is the 'force' behind the piston. What controls the pressure of the fuel that moves the piston. Is this where the solenoid shut off the flow of fuel, which increases the pressure, which moves the piston.. and when the solenoid opens, pressure is released and piston goes back to original.. Or vice versa.. depending on whereabouts of the solenoid?

Hey, what 'moves', rotates, or spirals to actually change the timing? I mean, what is moved in the head or rotor to do the actual 'work' of changing the timing??? And what is the force that does this change?

I think you got it byjtech ^^^^ That 92 gph is what is being actually injected.. and of course we'd need more to make sure there was pressure to properly fill the pump. @ 4000 rpm, you'd need pretty good pressure to get the rack filled to the end. Found those twin screw pumps on ebay, 229 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WALBRO-GCL624-330LPH-RACING-FUEL-PUMP-INLINE-amp-KIT-UNIVERSAL-7-00228-51-/171286801265?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 No real mention of this exact pump on CF, but there is a lot of guys running walbro's inline and the 392's

I remember your video with the exploding balljoint..

I might of mis typed.. the ones I'm getting are greasable lowers.. and has a longer zerk. It's the uppers that are not greasable. Which probably is ok, they don't carry weight anyways.

I already did the track bar about a year and half ago, but it's time--- Probably way beyond time, for ball joints, tie rods. I got almost 1/2 inch slop up and down in the outer tierods. yep.. I get the goody out of stuff.. So, looking at components from moog. outer tie rods (2) the inner tie rod to pitman, and the connecting bar from that TR to the main drag link. Might as well throw in new connector sleeves too. Then might as well do the ball joints too, Moog again. I'm only going with the standard non offset type. anyone know why they offer 'adjustable' camber +/- 1 1/2 degree? ...the offset do have an advantage I suppose, the uppers are greasable, whereas the normal ones are not.. just the lowers. Was there a axle problem that necessitated these type of joints? Looks like about 416 bucks from RA.. I get to unwrap my new ball joint press kit!! Just for giggles, anyone want to wager how much my economy will improve when the front tires are running straight again?? Last set was buzzed off in about 10k miles...

My wife is in charge of 'cleaning'. She just rolls the vehicle, Job Done. Least she don't spit 'baccy juice on the rug anymore.

I laughingly used to think ford spent TOO much time on this engine! Over engineered it to death???? I've seen my southern neighbor have the cab off 3x now for head work.. Which just recently got out of warranty.. Now the ticking time bomb is on his dime!

Doubtful.. sure, but at this point, apparently nothing is impossible. The man has tested for just about everything except diabetes.. The ONE other thing I can come up with other than a little air in the fuel, is a slow valve due to a sticky guide/weak spring. MNtom has the other possible valve related scenario.

Sounds about right.. industry standard has been about 4.5 gph per 100 hp. 18 gph should be pretty dang close to 400hp. Your last paragraph is a commonly missed factor I've read in CF.. people have forgotten those 1000 strokes equate into 2000 ENGINE revolutions. Good catch ISX. I wonder if Walbro has an exploded view of this pump somewhere?

is this your first dance with the 6.0?

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/L710020000%20high%20pressure%20EFI%20fuel%20pump.jpg This shows the 340 lph, @ 3 bar, which is ~ 42 psi.

Still using 'money' mike?? who does that anyway!! I should talk.. I have burnt fuses.. bent or broken hypodermic needles (livestock use) keys for God only knows what, Mcdonalds 'free happy meal' monopoly stickers from 2001, Stripped nuts, bolts.. Which spills over into an overflowing cup holder of same type junk..

I almost 'checked the box' this fall on those! I went with an inline fuel heater instead. (all mechanical/hot coolant/no electrical) I feel the 3-4 hours a day I'm sitting in the tractor, should have the filters pretty 'cleaned out' for next mornings start-up. I'd bet most guys with snotted over filters would say their whole tank is 'jelled'. In 40 years of burning the right, wrong or semi correct fuel, I can honestly say I've seen 1 tank of fuel that couldn't be pumped, or even flow out of a open bung. Only 1. Don't get me wrong, I'm battling clouded fuel as-we-speak! But its still making it to the filter just fine. What happens next is a whole new can of worms. Point is, Those SHOULD do the trick. It's the filter that 'catches' the lil clouds, and when they are thick enough, doink. sitting on side of road. That layer of snot didn't come up the fuel line in one blast, it is an accumulation of billions of molecules of 'wax'.

I saw 340 lph, which is almost 90 gph. Not sure how much they choke the pump down THAT testing. would that be free flow? Just because it's rated @ 45 psi, doesn't mean it HAS to run that hard. We'd still run a bypass.. just like in a mechanical or any aftermarket FASS, or Airdog. Between an auxiliary bypass, and the overflow, It should run plenty volume @ 16-17 psi. *theoretically*... I remember years ago, when we were running the drag cars, and the simple 'blue holley' fuel pump was the standard of the day. we'd run a pressure regulator INLINE, just before the carb. Dumbest thing, They (holley) used the regulator as a downsteam use regulator. Meaning any fuel needed, must go past a spring and ball. Didn't work for crap when vapor lock kicked in. Then, someone came out with a stand-off regulator, which 'teed' into the line.. BEYOND the carb, which meant there was always liquid fuel running past the banjo on the carb. This meant the fuel pressure the lil blue holley ever 'saw' was whatever the regulator was set at. 6-7 lbs.

suction side of filter?? <pray> *getting ready to spike the ball in the endzone* EDIT: Lucy may steal the football here: Ok, now I remember he has a fass or airdog.. but still, impulses can go back quite a ways, and a crack anywhere could pull minute air in..

That looked suspiciously like it was just a chain didn't it? I would've sworn the trailer is getting closer to the vehicle as they crested that little incline.. "Bakken fail of the day".. is that a 'thing'?? No offense to N>Daks, ( most of the newbies are not from there anyways) but I envision a herd of roustabouts, bouncing off the walls.. and shenanigans ensue.. The CAN-DO spirit is alive and well! I AM SPARTICUS! I can imagine finding 'help' in the non oil field sector is a bearcat. Can you imagine what a wheat or sugarbeet farmer would have to pay a man, just to run equipment..

what is the 'factor' for running a grid heater 'x' amount of time? Is there an internal temp probe that tells the ecm 'its hot enough inside the plenum'.. or is there a simple curve within the ecm that takes iat and computes the amount of on-time for the grids? edit, just the other day, I was priming the fuel system after a filter change, and noticed the grids were 'squealing'. Suppose this was frost burning off the grids?

Do you run a front cover, or a chunk of cardboard over the radiator? Perfect for the short hops. What kind of fuel are you running; blended or winterized? Cetane should be UP in either case, I think I saw somewhere that #1 was 55 or 57 cetane? I remember #2 of having a minimum of 40 by law. Then again, higher cetane means lower btu's.. or less heat. Probably a wash here.. I will guarantee, a gelled fuel system makes NO heat! :D

I just bought their (arctic fox) Linehauler inline heater. No, It isn't installed yet! I got it for my daily chore tractor, and it was delivered last week... It's got 1/2 inch coolant ports, and 3/8ths fuel. I cheaped out and didn't get the model with a thermostat, or electric assist. They 'claim' a 90 degree rise in fuel temp.. If it works out, I'm going to do at least one of the Rams with one. Here it is.. Doesn't work worth a darn sitting in the house!

is this what you mean? Walbro High Pressure Twin Screw Fuel Pump Walbro High Pressure Twin Screw Fuel Pump Click image for larger view Quantity in Basket: none Part Number: L710020000 List Price: $314.95 Your Price: $289.95 Quantity in stock: 6 Estimated shipping date: Today Free Shipping:W/$250.00+ Order Shipping Weight: 3.00 pounds Quantity: The Walbro high pressure twin screw fuel pump can be used as an in-tank fuel pump or external pump & works especially well in high pressure applications. Lingenfelter's fuel pump flow testing results showed flow rates of almost 340 LPH. Walbro's twin screw design sets a new standard in high-flow fuel pumps with minimal pressure drop-off and heating while operating at high pressures. The twin screw pump is compatible with gas, E15 or diesel. Inlet: 15 mm barb Outlet: 8 mm barb Length: 226 mm Diameter: 43 mm Terminals: (-) 5 mm, (+) 4 mm Old Pierburg / TI part number: 7.00228.510 New TI Walbro part number: 7.00228.51