rancherman

I'd recommend you get the rods re conditioned. At least measure the roundness of #6!

You took the words right out of my mouth Mom! It just hit me today.. (lots of time to ponder while raking hay) that on a percentage basis, there are fewer people today that can afford new stuff. So that means there are more people looking at good used.. which drives the price! I'm seeing that in the ag market. Tractors have done the same over the years, New 150 hp tractors are ~ 150k And old JD 150 hp tractors (4430, 4440 for example) are fetching 15-18k for a shelled out machine.. I've seen some that had fresh OH, Paint, new tires... bring over 40k. They didn't cost that much 30 years ago when new.

Ya'll know by now I have a 2006 jeep. Came with 1 key. I've just been baptized into the SKIS generation! My only key has the door lock, unlock, panic, and tailgate glass opening buttons. I've read where I can buy a blank key, have it cut to fit, and as long as I have 2 original keys, I can 'tell' the computer to program the new key. Without the 2nd key, I'm stuck with going to the dealer?? How about higher ended locksmiths? Without that key, and it's little chip, I'd really be up a creek! Does the battery run both the chip, and the locking functions?

yep. http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2721

man, something went berserk on that post! I'll try again. Youll probably need to re use your old head bolts, cause the thread and diameter of most heads are not ace hardware variety size! I'll use a bunch of spacers to keep the chain snug against the block, so it won't slide up and meet the head on the bolt. It'll bend the bolt for sure. Go opposite corners. Don't allow the engine to free fall... even a couple inches, and have the chain 'catch it'.. I've dangled long blocks with manifold bolt holes (3/8ths each side) You'll be fine with your stripped block. Going back in, with a complete engine... use the lift hooks!

IDparts.com shows a oem timing kit for $399 Not too bad I guess. (far cheaper than a bunch of bent valves, smashed pistions...etc) I think 'today' parts are fairly available... back when the engine was 'new', I hear it was a nightmare waiting for parts to come from Italy. I guess I'll find out how this plays out in the future!

greendieselengineering.com (GDE) sells a reflash for these CRD's and VW's TDI's, some Mercedes too. This VM engine uses EGR, AND at the same time runs the crank case vent back through the turbo. Oil and soot, as you may suspect, really love each other! It'll pack the most unholy sludge and tar into the intake manifold. The GDE 'tune' will keep the egr closed 100% of the time, without throwing the CEL. Sure, blocking plates do the same, but what happens then, the computer will not 'see' the expected exhaust in the intake... and will throw the code. They have ECO tune, Hot tune, and even a turbo upgrade tune. I'm going with the ECO tune (which restores full torque) and just reroute the CCV to the atmosphere.. Which will make the turbo hose live a LOT longer without the oily mix going through! The ECO tune gets HP up to 180, Hot tune is good for 200. They don't say what the 'turbo upgrade' kit is running... "whole nother sport" is mentioned... hmmm Our Libbys were dealer 'detuned' "service F37" after torque convertor shudder problems arose. Simple fix.. put the European export TC in the vehicle! Nope! Chrysler decided to limit torque at cruise speed (@ lockup).. sheesh. I'm going with the Mopar TC. But I'm going to wait to see if it really need it for now. Yep, there are other 'module' boxes for increased power, but they don't address the egr problem. 500 bucks for their reflash is a little spendy, but keeping a clean MAP sensor, and unsooted/tarred up intake has benefits too! along with the extra pep, 3-5 mpgs to boot.

'Worth" to me, on a vehicle, is what it'll salvage out at... 150-200 bucks a ton.

Blame Obama. JK. ok, not really kidding.. Blame Mopar1973man.com! Seriously, cool sites such as this one, and the countless others dealing with mods, upgrades, high performance, ALL WAX, ROMANTICIZE, AND LURE countless 'newbies' into the 'hobby'. Forums have taken off the shroud of mystery.. and info is available to anyone.. Everybody wants to play! Long gone are the days of 'dang ol dirty diesel, underpowered boat anchors' and now we have firebreathing beasts that can run sub 10 second quarter miles, pull sleds 300 feet down the dirt track... and on the flip side, build a motor that can roll out 25+ mpg down the highway. I tell ya, just reading even a few of the available forums is addicting! People like to tinker. We also like to 'show off' "looky what I DID!" So I say this< " More interest, means more demand.... drives the price! "

how many miles logged on the ol gal?

Same here... 2 weeks ago, I was totally unaware of them. I've always liked the 'look' of the Liberty, especially the 2004-2008? years I searched several sites, Autotrader, searchtempest, ebay,.. Last week, there were 122 of these for sale on Autotrader.com alone. They are out there! Prices range from 6500 up to 14,000. Mine has 72k miles, I paid 10,500. LOL< this is still pretty fresh in my mind (all the searching).. There are several on the front range area of Colorado in the $12-13k range.. Very popular in that neck of the woods. It appears I'm not the only one in 'here' with one! dennhop has a '06 too!

5 speed, but it's automatic! 545 re, but all 5 gears are enabled... I guess when it's in the Dakota, it's neutered to 4 speed only. No manuals here in USA.. but very popular in Europe and Australia. Chrysler even stopped shipping their gas engine equipped (3.7) mid year, and only offered the diesel. for 2007 onward, Mercedes got the job of supplier, but they went into Cherokees only. (here in USA) overseas, you could get the diesel in anything.. even the Wrangler. Son said his first tank of fuel pencil'd out at 28 mpg, next tank was 26.5 All running 70-75 average, with the ac on. Rob plugged in the scanner to watch on the trip home.. Boost is about 10psi at cruise, and jumps to 20-22 on full power. Yep, it has an intercooler too! You can just hear the turbo spooling too. I drove It about 5 miles after he got home, man! I cannot believe it's only 2.8 litres! Quite snappy for a 4500# vehicle. It got cut from the herd when it failed epa for 2008. What is this Country's malfunction??? When the sun comes up tomorrow, I'll snap some pics.

Hey guys, I've been sniffing around, looking for a 2005-2006 liberty for a couple weeks now, and settled on one I found in Texas. Flew my son down there yesterday to drive it home.. He's really happy how much power this thing has. I can't wait to get my hands on it... He says it sounds just like a 12v cummins at idle, but soon as you roll into the throttle, it smoothes out. It's a vm 2.8 CRD, uses bosch injectors, and the CP3 injection pump. I could relate his experience yesterday, but It would not be possible to put it into words.... Just think of a rural country boy, being dumped into the lions' pit of Texas... and combating his way from San Antonio to Dallas... at 3 pm. He said this was NOT the way for 'learning' how to drive a new vehicle! He said the 70 to 90 mph bursts needed to stay alive on this freeway was effortless in the little diesel.. He spent the night with buddies from his Marine Corps. days in OK city last night. He really dodged a bullet! last night, San Antonio got dumped on and is experiencing floods!! I'll get pics soon as the jeep gets 'home'.!

oh hey, just remembered a trick you may be able to use. After you snag the engine out, and it's off the hoist, You may be able to reach in through the passenger door with the hoist and lower the trans to the ground (then drag it out from under the truck). Might save your back on getting it off the blocks.. I did a big clark trans this way, put a chain around the case, lifted it slightly, took the blocks out, and lowered away. Not sure if the door on a Ram will open far enough though..

Any luck on finding the coated pistons?

I'd do a combination! Pull the engine by itself, You'll have it out quicker... which means it'll be headed to the machine shop quicker too.. Then snake the trans out for reassembly to the engine, to fit it as a whole for later. You'll find out if your hoist is heavy enough when you snag just the motor!

hmmmm, just watched a vid on using a panel bond adhesive! This may be just the ticket.. no flanging, welding, (or very little)..

How would that foam work on a brand new truck.. the ultimate preventer? Rockers, cab corners, heels of the fenders, heck even the bottom inside of the door I know it'd be a total bugger if you ever needed to do body work afterward... but we never crash do we??

sounds about par for a S-10.. I'd bet it's still looks good though!

there is a adjustable valve in them, Uses a little allen wrench, which adjusts the waste gate opening. My guess is it lowers the 'felt' pressure by the waste gate... (keeps it closed) which will give more boost

is there room enough to hone #6?? Dang cowl is going to be right in your way.

reminds me... I need to order a wood furnace pretty quick!

Hey guys, It's been close to 25 years since I've done any 'at home' body work. I was wondering if anyone has replaced their cab corners.. and found a good product to use, or one to stay away from? Several choices on ebay, about 35 to 50 bucks a corner. I'm going to replace the corners, get it waterproof again, and then box line the whole cab from the lower body line down.. Thinking dark grey on the maroon should look pretty good? Now that the box is off, changing up the corners will be lots easier!

I check my engines maybe 1 time in their lives.. LOL, I usually have a hose break, or radiator leak.. so I probably 'turn over' my antifreeze pretty quick. I have however, started spending the extra bucks for pre mixed antifreeze. At first I thought... shoot, MY water is cheaper than what's coming in the jugs.,, I have very high nitrate levels in our well water.. Not so much dissolved minerals, But nitrates as you know are an acid (salt)

ya probably have a scuffed cylinder. That'll explain the miss, and foamy oil.. not sure who posted it in this thread, but someone said their coolant rose dramatically? I witnessed 2 times personally when my 903 cummins scuffed ONE cylinder, the coolant rose 30-40 degrees in 10 seconds.. the friction must've been horrendous. I stopped the engine, let it cool half an hour.. and limped it home. yep... she was dragging a leg. Now, If you only had 1 bad cylinder, and the other 5 look perfectly good, Wouldn't an injector be more probable... and not so much lugging?? (high egt ) I'd think all 6 should have signs of overheat. Edit. Just listened to your audio.. Man that sounds familiar. I hope I'm wrong.