rancherman

.........need a totally rust free extended cab to put on it?... I'm 2 hours west of Sioux City.

on my new to me Jeep, with the crd, you wouldn't believe where they are running the ccv! .......... suction side of the turbo..... Now, add a copious amount of egr ( yet again, another 'marvel' of technology) a venturi/butterfly valve to create a slight vacuum in the intake... anyone, anyone??? can ANYONE see the problem of adding soot and oily mist together? Yep. I found a pretty common flash mod to electronically delete the egr, without throwing a cel So that issue will be taken care of. Expensive turbo hoses rot out from the oil... MAP sensor need to be cleaned every 5000 miles.. plus the intake runners 'grow shut' in short order. Which brings me to the real reason for posting in this thread!... You guys running the modded ccv... have you ever experienced 'freeze up/plugging' in the wintertime? I'm a member of lostjeeps.com and guys who are running what they call 'ehm' (elephant hose modification') which is removing the ccv from the intake, and simply dumping it to atmosphere. Some are running a reclaimer, which is removing most of the oil mist, and still running the left over air back to intake.... but most are just dumping to atmosphere. Which a lot of northerners are finding out isn't too cool when the rear main seal blows out.. due to a frozen hose.. Anyone care to interject why they freeze? too many short trips.. and water vapor finally grows it shut.. or too close to the ground and road splash piles up... or possible 'catch can' (some owners don't care for a oil spot on their driveway) which is too far away from engine heat.. fills with ice... and makes the perfect plug?

wiggle yer valves after you get the springs and old seals off.. check for guide wear the guides tend to wear in a 'line with the rocker' not as much fore and aft.

LOL... those push locs don't need a clamp for a reason! One-way-trip only.

If we could 'bill out' our 'services' to the rest of the world.. for being such good protectors.. Jag, you're right, WWII helped get the 'wheels' turning in this Country.. and put us in a pretty prosperous economy (and deeper in debt at the same time) The depression had us pretty 'flat' until we entered the war. We are a service country.. We fix stuff. (actually, we REPLACE stuff) We send people to die for others. Where do we go from here?

hold on a sec ! Oil goes through the cooler first, then the filter... Don't blame the filter just yet! oil pump... pressure regulator..........cooler THEN filter head. Unless I mis read your post, and am thinking 'wrong passageway'. Take a knife, and see how 'soft' it is. There's some pretty good stuff that is light as aluminum.. but much harder

first... see if it will stick to a magnet. I wonder where the other half still is? It may have already gone out with previous oil change... (did you save the oil you drained out?) time to ' go fishin' Appears to be about the same diameter as a main bolt? in any case, it would've had to made it past the pickup screen.. I'd check your pump internals, and the pressure regulator for damage, and for the other half of that washer! It may still be under a bolt head somewhere ( or galled into something you really don't want to replace)..

Perkins uses that type of sealing too... they call it ' compressive O-ring' nothing 'O' about it... it's a slice of rubber tube! I've used many many inches of spare fuel line for these type of connections over the years

Ok, last question! you have any 'friends' who really hate your Cummins? ( you kick the snot out of a ford or chev recently?)

couple questions here Best of your knowledge, have you ever had antifreeze in your oil? Were all the bearings std. Cummins? If not, someone else been in there... upon disassembly, did you notice any other signs of this engine being apart before? Usually, RTV in odd places is a giveaway... wrench marks, etc Has this truck been subjected to extremely steep operating conditions.. ever been upside down? (don't laugh) I'm sitting in one right now! .... has engine been 'killed/stalled' before you had a chance to 'clutch it'

you mean..... there is even lower grade stuff out there?? geeezzz I gotta really start watching the boxes! but dang it, I'd LOVE to buy USA!! It's soooooo hard to find anymore!

they probably rebuilt it with inferior parts.. sorry to say. It's getting really tuff to find oem kits to rebuild starters or alternators. Mexican components such as these, or light switches sure look good, but have less than half the life of original stuff. I swear, going to a u-pull-it salvage yard is going to find better electronics than the stuff on the shelf these days. Unfortunately, you take the sole chance the dang thing is burnt out in the first place..

If your radiator is keeping the engine within it's safe zone, then yes. If you are pushing the red zone,(coolant wise) then egt probably be hotter too. Less heat will be lost in an overhot engine, than a normal temp one. so, if you are pushing 220-230 in the coolant, your egt will be higher with the same fuel and load as the same engine running a normal 190-200

ummm, yah. Man o Man.. You most definitely need to have your rods reconditioned. From what I can see, no spinning of bearing took place, but those dudes took a pounding. you were 'THIS CLOSE' >< TO a spun bearing! My shop charges about 40 bucks a rod to cut and hone the big end. Was #6 cooling jet plugged with crap?

keep us posted on what you find Dave, My 5600 is sitting in my possession because PO said it was leaking out the front too.. and wanted a NEW transmission.. dam the cost.. (I'm sure he WAS 'dam'd ) This was 4-5 years ago. So, it's been sitting on my shop floor awaiting it's turn for OH. You got the raised capacity now?

yep. Mike is correct. That filter head is quite a trouble maker: This system uses Bosch cp3 injection pump, which draws fuel clear from tank. (through the filter).. no pusher pump anywhere. The filter head also has 2 systems in there.. WIF and heating element. Supposedly, the electrical connector gets hot enough to partially melt the rubber isolator in the heating circuit. causing air to enter. Since this was a San Antonio vehicle, and the fuel heater comes on @ ~ 36* I think it's safe to say the filter head is good (for now) Mopar has upgraded the part for ~ 120 bucks. With new filter element and pigtail assy. Engine also has what is called "viscous heater". Its a little pump that is run off the serpentine belt, it is driven through a clutch which is just like the AC pump. It has a stator and rotor just like a torque convertor... but pulls antifreeze out of the head, warms it up, and sends it back to the head. Yesterday, at idle, I witnessed it pull the idle speed down about 50 rpm when it cycled... This motor is kinda a bearcat to get warmed up.. so lots of different mods are being used to help with this. I've been lurking around in lostjeeps.com ....... I think I'll just make sure the t stat is good first, then find a nice front cover... Then we'll see how it goes from there

I think I'm going to regret buying this Liberty! Pulled into the filling station this morning, and drove right past the gas pumps, and parked next to the green handled one arm bandit... ding ding ding... started filling my first tank in this jeep. ( ok, fuel pumps don't go 'ding' anymore) I noticed you can't run full tilt on the nozzle, Foam was affecting the way the vent system allowed the fuel to run into the tank... No big deal.. This is about when the real fun began! Lady from the store came bombing out screaming "MISTER, MISTER.... YOU CAN'T PUT DIESEL IN THAT CAR"... ................. .................. I gotta come up with some real hokey replies.. such as " oh heck, I thought this was flex fuel vehicle".. or 'ah, it'll burn anything.. Beer, Pepsi, buttermilk'.. feel free to add to the list! finally some pics of the new buggy. Armadillo strike damage to the front bumper cover... ~ 140 bucks Really? a german WWII helmet with 4 legs Not much to see here.. Nice shot of a big piece of plastic though!

These would be the Aisin trans? If so, I've heard they look very very similar to Allison?

I'll chime in here with a safety warning! DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGER IN THERE WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING. (looking for the leak) too many guys over the years looking for faulty lines, connections, etc.. would blindly take the tip of the finger, and wipe that innocent drip of fuel that is hanging from a fitting/line. (to see if it reappears in the same spot) REACH IN THERE WITH A PIECE OF PAPER. When they are done fixing, they notice a little raised red spot or line across their finger, palm, forearm... 2 days later, it's really really nasty. Finally go to the doc, who then admits them to hospital. They really try to save the appendage, but in the end, amputation is the only way to save the mans life. Gang green. Sorry about the public service warning! Back to your issue. loosen that fitting, ensure the ball is fully seated. well, Actually, I'd take that 3 pack back out, check to see if there is galling on the ball first. If smooth, retry torqueing back down. still leaking? You said 'quite a bit'. makes me think you have a cracked line, or fitting. quite a bit, as in drip drip drip.. or is it just wet?

any of these gauges is like putting your thumb on the pulse of the engine. You can monitor the very important EGT, Boost gauge is more for the overall set up of your engine. How it's fueled, timed. In stocker form, pretty much these will give you a warning of something has changed, worn, or broke. You'll know how hard NOT to lean on the engine with the egt.. Prevention of meltdown is kinda nice to monitor! In stock form, I'd spend the money first on the EGT. Boost next. (actually, FP should be first) lol To answer your question, yes. Boost gauge will show you your turbo's health. But remember, a healthy turbo is only as good as the 'tune' being fed into it. You can take the same turbo and put it on 6 different tuned engines, and have 6 different boosts. You and I would use a boost gauge for monitoring any 'changes' in the daily routine.. such as if you are normally seeing X psi at full tilt, and suddenly it is different... you'll know something's up, time for some investigation. If you suspect a faulty turbo right now, black smoke will be your first telltale sign, loss of power..

yes

My 'better idea' has been, and always will be 'two speed rear axle'. I've never liked the idea of having OD in the transmission. High gear should be straight through. Period. Now, when you need more axle rpm's... flip the button up and clunk. ya got your extra gear... Unfortunately, 2 ton trucks are the only axles I've ever seen with this. And it would only work with 2 wd only. never mind.

if you included a comments section under the rating would the comments (good or bad) show in google? I know that screw ups happen, ranging from simple things to total puke outs, some can be blamed on the shop, some can be blamed on the owner. And like we've all seen in forums, anything 'typed' is really hard to distinguish true hatred-sarcasm-joking around.. simple 5 star system with optional comments to explain a 1 star rating might be good? oh, on a unrelated note.. some forums I've been in show some threads with 5-600 pages of posts. Come on! sure, I'm positive there are some good things to find in that. IF YOU HAVE SEVERAL HOURS/DAYS to waste. Seem to me these are the exact same forums that flame the snot out a newbie for not searching.. Too many of these align hundreds of pages of 'info' as the ultimate bible/expert. I've wondered why instead of answering a question to a post with " geez dude, you should've searched this first" they could've just as quick given a link. Would it make sense to take a forum with "tmi" and whatever is not a 'sticky'... flush the whole site, and start fresh? Me, I want to take information, put it to use, and get on with my life. NOT spending hours looking at the myriad of possible ways to prevent air from entering a fuel line! (my jeep) Things evolve, which may include certain repairs, or even diagnoses. Parts become obsolete, and different methods of repair can come along after 10 years. Maybe someone came up with a better mousetrap recently!

I hear ya! short wheel base, higher center of gravity, It seems a little on the oversteering side of the bubble.. It's gonna take some time to get used to. ... who the heck drives a jeep cause it's known for it's road carving ability? lol. Good to see you around Ryan. Funny story about this jeep... I only got it because the last guy who wanted to buy it... backed out because he didn't know it was a diesel.. and said the engine sounded terrible... *yep, I would too, if I was expecting the 3.7!* This vehicle I think will be a fun little 'tinker toy'.