rancherman

hmmmm, in a vac pump... not so sure about this! the lip seal is pointed so the pressure differences within a pump, either vacuum or pressure, cause the lips to 'bite down' when there is a pressure difference... making for a better seal. so in a vac pump.. wouldn't the lip seal be pointed so outside atmosphere (high pressure) would be helping the seal do it's job? you are right, when it comes to keeping oil in, or water in... lips face the material to be kept 'in'... but on a pressure situation, atmosphere will be higher and always seeks low pressure... blowing through seal lips pointed backwards would be easier.

isn't the main reason that valve is there.. is to help maintain 'pressure' within the system, after all, no pressure can be 'made' unless there is a restriction. Sure, fuel is there, but unless there is 'flow' which equals cooling, then we all know what happens when there is too much heat.. Pressure doesn't necessarily mean there is 'flow'.. I've thought for years the true health of our fuel system should be measured on the downstream (overflow) side of the pump.. volume mainly. If there isn't any or very little overflow, then one shouldn't expect much cooling to take place. Bosch would want a certain amount of residual pressure within their pumps, to ensure all components are adequately supported with airless fuel.. so no component is never starved for fuel. Vane pumps, rotor heads, all are designed to fill with fuel at a certain level of pressure.(ON THE BACKSIDE) If they are forced to 'pull' fuel, then other problems surface. This is where the 15 psi check ball comes in. The overflow kinda handles both issues, keeps a certain amount of pressure within the pump, allows the rest to return to tank. Plus, it keeps fuel from draining back after shut down. (yah, yan, I know it takes air to break the vacuum within a liquid to cause it to drain back).. This still is all dependent of what the supply can deliver. Mike really never answered my question a few months ago, when I asked if the vane pump has ANY EFFECT of the PRESSURE within the pump itself.. ie against the overflow valve... Meaning in effect, as long as there is volume to the intake side of the vp, will the vane pump "do the rest" and take care of the internal pressures and cooling needs as well??? Or is all fuel running through the vane pump all directed to the rotor head.

well, back to 'normal' here. High 80's..... low 90's. Moved the sweet corn processing 'outdoors' yesterday. We did a short batch of 50 quarts, Didn't want to fill the house with 3 hours of steam! Actually looks like we'll have our yearly sweet corn 'put away' before the resident Obam*s opps, I mean RACCOONS, *excuse me* finds our 'stash'...

yep, regular cab, regular box.. that's all I've ever had. I don't need to 'remember'!!! (I don't like change)

My observations are, 2500 with Manual Trans use the Dana 80. Springs 'look' the same too, as compared to our '00 3500. This is comparing my 1998 2500 parts donor, and our 2000 3500. your years and models may differ. For me, I'd say if you are running around 'naked' with the tonner... say 75% of the time, or more, I'd rather be driving the 2500. your kidneys, wife, and tire budget will thank you. When you get caught the first time in slick conditions, you'll be cussing those extra 2 tires too. our 3500 would be as worthless as **** on a boar, if it didn't have 4x4. (for what is required out of it) Little mud, or snow... it's not going anywhere 'empty'. loaded, it's better.

true, dino doesn't flow very well at sub zero temps. but in their environments.... rear axles..... I'd say 'so what'. It's not like the lube is stuck to the side of the case... and not between the teeth.. #2 grease is pretty 'stiff' too.. but it does it's job pretty dang good. The axle or trans is stone cold for such a short time anyway, if there was any worry, it's over in just a few miles. All the 60's and 70's pickups I've driven to death.... trans and axles were the last thing to go. (if they DID go) Me? I'd say the good thing about synthetic is the probable increase in fuel economy, and just a tad more power to the wheels. of course, these 'new' trans are running much hotter these days... and thermal cookdown gets the 'syn advantage'.. Since our axle ratios are either 3.54 or 4.1, these axles are running not quite as hot as some previous years higher numerically ratios.. such as 4.30, 4.56, 4.88.. those were real 'coffee makers'. so for 'lube' qualities, I mean actual LUBE, also read 'ability to keep two surfaces separated by a film' I really don't think it matters. *when both oils are new* Mntom found out that yes, thick oil takes more power to move a gear through..

10-15 below average here.. Like other posters, hoodies are normal morning attire. Corn is waaay behind average. ( that hasn't been destroyed by hail, that is) it's going to be a very interesting Fall.

I too had a 'learning period'. I did a lot of 2nd to 5th 'jumps'.. (that was embarrassing!) I was used to a fairly sloppy pattern on some of my older crap! Just think: narrow gates, and let the centering springs tell you where the middle gate is! (3rd and 4th gear) If you feel no spring pressure on the handle, you are in the middle gate. And You'll notice a slightly slower shift (the period of engaging > successfully, without 'buzzing'< the next synchronizer) with these trans. Guys that add a triple disk wonder why they notice harder shifting.. mainly because of the added mass the syncro's need to speed up or slow down. Well, how many 150-200k transmissions got a new life behind a modded engine and brand new "heavy' clutch!? A LOT! Tired syncros are suddenly required to work even harder,faster... This trans has a huge rotating mass, especially for a full synchronized trans... and the syncro's are just a tad 'light' for the expected duty. ( especially the 'duty' modders are putting through it!) Shift like a civilized quadraped, (now, don't get me wrong, AFTER you have shifted, your right foot can do anything you want!) and that trans will last a LONG time!

Dave, did you do the raised fill level with a street L.. If not, you could always just use the fill port hole as your temp sensor location. (unless the sensor is larger than the hole!!!) you might be able to just get away with a reducing bushing screwed into the case. (quick for now, but a little more screwing around @ fluid fill time) Sure, the sensor would only be in the top part of the oil, but when going down the road..... I'd bet the oil is gonna be pretty much everywhere! I have the re drilled fill (about 2-3 inches higher) than stock location... and I'll use the old hole for my sensor. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR SENSOR DOESN'T WANT TO BE A NEW PARKING PAWL!!! At least a temporary one! I don't know how long your 'stinger' is, just make sure it doesn't want to engage a gear! (Where I suggest, the gears run pretty close to the case) I might need to rethink this after I crawl under there!

have u priced a used complete axle? I did a quick search on car-parts.com and came up ( I figured you had the '80 because of your manual trans) with several units in the 1100 range.. complete drum to drum... with limited slip and most have 120k miles.. Edit: some were even lower, in the 750 range.. but had more miles too. Just sayin... You already know 300k miles are quite doable with these axles! Aftermarket crap, even the replacement parts used by Mopar herself just isn't the same as what rolled down the assembly line.

yours have limited slip? The one I intend on putting in my project has it...

+1 ^^^^^ Just as you'll need to keep the trans fluid changed ( for heat damage) axles need love too! Contamination from water and low levels due to leaks are probably the #1 consideration.

I agree here, but for additional reasons! Heat (there is plenty in these transmissions for sure!) isn't what's killing the trans.... It's the oxidized oil. So keeping the lube changed out waaay earlier than recommended is paramount. Pretty sure most owners only start considering oil AFTER the transmission's been rebuilt! Added capacity.... Oil coolers add what, a quart each side? the increased fill level, Wrapping the exhaust along the trans can't hurt either. WF's idea of adding a gauge will help you find out if YOUR driving style is detrimental. it'll sure clue you in if you need to add additional cooling devices. I plan on installing one.. just to keep a mental file on hand. If I see long runs at higher temps... I'll change the fluid more often. It's annually for now. (about 15-18 k miles)

Well, that is what Moparman claims... pretty vehemently too.. I still maintain there are much simpler reasons for better summer time economy.

My Toyota gasser (22re engine) is getting way better this summer too... about 3-4 better. better summer fuel, warm weather means everything turns easier, quicker. gear boxes, tires, everything gets up-to-temp faster. I'm sure Mike will chime in too with his 'warm weather' equals better engine efficiency .. .........I'll stick with my opening statement about the rolling friction on cold stiff tires, bearings, trans... Then again, sometimes, just sometimes.... every trip is 'with the wind'! Most of the time, for me, I am bucking into it!

What is 'Scotch Gard'?? an adhesive? a sealer?

that is what I call 'bunged up a bit'... but still very usable. You got lucky.... most time when a foreign body is floating around inside a enclosed space, grenade comes to mind!

U raise alligators? Man, I bet gator seat covers would last a long time!

With propane alone, I've used a 500k btu weed burner and got by with some iron work, but it heats such a large area, that making precise bends 'exactly where you want it to bend' gets dicey. It takes a lot of fuel, and time just to get a soft red going... you'll be deaf afterwards too~ too late for me ;D I'll use my rosebud tip and acetylene Ox for more pin point heating.. without buying a bunch of equip, talk to your welder dude about fabbing up some. 1.66 diameter pipe makes a nice sized look. (1.5 inside diameter, .08 wall) 1.5 solid bar or larger is gonna be pricey too, around 10 bucks a foot or more 1.5 solid bar weighs 6 lbs. per foot. yep, you can bend-in-segments, but it really works well in larger radii situations.. 10-12 inch radii or more. Our grill guards are tighter bends than would work nice with that style of bending. I'm talking 3 or 4 inch radii here.

Still use heat! using 1-1.25 inch bar is going to take some horsepower to bend! get it plenty hot, and bend slowly... otherwise it'll pull apart (crack) on the outside radii. Might want to practice on some first to get your technique down pat. I would try to get the inside radii a little hotter than the outside radii. It won't stretch crack quite as easily. I've only done the freehand method for bending iron.... you may have really good luck with your bender!

'frowned upon' ?? are you talking the spill port method?? hmmm, to me, that is the ultimate way for accurate timing. It removes all manufacturing and wear variances. I always find true tdc, not by relying on the balancer mark... but by dropping a valve down and measuring piston movement. Sometimes I've been shocked by how 'off' the balancer mark may be! On the other hand, frowning may be a good term too! It's quite a job to drop the valve, find true tdc, set up the spill port tubing and other support paraphernalia... time consuming, YES! Although, on our 12v's, popping only the front rocker cover off is a breeze!! Some tractors I have, I have to pull about half the hydraulic lines out just to gain access to about 24 bolts holding down a cast iron valve cover!! Perhaps do it once, for baseline info, (such as a fresh rebuild) I do mine when the engine is majored, or pump/injector work, even when the head is freshened up... and may go 6-10k hours until next time.. (300-500k miles in vehicle terms)

looks good, I'd sure consider using a solid round bar for the headlight wrap around though! (If you are building your own brush/pusher bars) It'll be easier to bend with no collapsing, and I've had more damage done in minor 'animal contact' from the lightweight hollow pipe smashing against the turn signal/side of fender!... Sometimes I think there would be less damage without the headlight protector! A tip if you do use tubing: Fill it with sand, pack the livin dayights out of it... as good as you can, then cap both ends. Then bend it to your desired shape. Heat of course. take off the plugs and shake out the sand. Makes a pretty fair bending jig. Cheap too! ok ok, cap one end first, pack with sand, then cap the other! I've bent some 1.25 od .083 wall tube down to about a 6 inch radii with pretty fair looking results this way.

I've probably asked this before, but ISX refresh my memory! Is 'tabbed' timing pretty close to 'actual' spill port timing? I've several Perkins that don't even have a 'mark'.. and the spill method is mandatory for setting the pump.. I was curious if you've taken the time to see how the two methods compared!

I had my puller maxed out to the end too, and ended up heating with a torch. I used a pretty aggressive flame, to speed up the heat transfer. Contrary to some, a small 'safe' flame will actually get more heat where you DON'T WANT IT. (up the shaft, into the gear box) mainly because it takes too long to heat the pitman arm. The quicker you can get it loose, the quicker you can shut the flame off.

Better watch it! you may be pissin in someone's cheerios here! (Obama)