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Found 6 results

  1. Before I begin , I am going to lay down some ground rules. Please only post pertinent topic related questions. The basis for this area is the dreaded ac ripple and its effects on our beloved diesels, but, the information posted here is also applicable to all dc generation based systems , and as such at times some of the posted content may seem far afield but I assure you it is relevant. With that said, I am in pursuit of a method to filter out ac ripple from the alternator to the system as a whole. I am currently in r&d mode but will be in initial beta within two weeks. my Goals for this endeavor are three fold 1. Find a way to filter a.c. ripple out of the alternator feed so that the entire electrical system is protected from this effect 2. create a pre and post ac ripple alert meter that is both simple and cheap to produce so that monitoring of this phenomenon is possible 3 as a side of this project, beyond a.c. ripple our trucks also suffer from a serious deficiency in dc output due to not only the toasters kicking in but also from add on electronics like lights and pumps and winches, but also old man time. with that said I am going to jump in to some basic field theory for ac to dc generation as is pertinent to our systems actual alternator generation is ac or full wave at the armature due to the three equidistant armatures on the alternator shaft these three armatures generate a full wave ac pulse with each revolution which then must be converted to dc via a rectifier bridge. Basic rectifier bridges consist of four diodes that are connected in a unique way to guide and redirect the current which results in a dc or half wave segment. the problem is diodes generate heat and they also are not 100% efficient. the heat is annoying and will eventually take its toll but its not the heat we have a problem with. the realm problem is the efficiency rating and design of the diodes in the rectifier bridge. the inability to get a 100% efficiency will always plague us you cant get something for nothing. From basic physics to thermos dynamics you're gonna pay a fee or toll every time you do something different than what's already happening, hence the heat. The ac ripple is a very small percentage of the full wave that the diodes just cant convert due to inefficiency thus we get what engineers call acceptable ripple percentage. Unfortunately things like sensors and computers find ac ripple to be about as fun as 4 molar extractions at the budget dentist and will act out in new and interesting ways when fed a steady ripple diet. What was that I heard you think.......well surely the engineers that designed our trucks new about this and protected the system from it right I mean their engineers with degrees and such. WRONG! Its called planned obsolescents they know its gonna kill it one day and to them that means more parts sales more dealership business and more new car sales , I mean why the hell would they fix it its genius really. so what is the answer, obviously buying new computers and other devices to replace old ones isn't ideal either is buying new more expensive and less reliable I might add due to world wide outsourcing alternators, so what to do ??????? well ill tell you. I am cabout mid way on this so far and I think ive got all three well I know 2 of them are solved but 1 I'm about 80% on right now so grab your popcorn and read on OUTLAW7 ac ripple.pdf apprippl.pdf E02064249.pdf inductor.pdf rectifier cfilter.pdf rectifier circuits.pdf ripple_formula.pdf ripple_volts.pdf voltage sensor.pdf
  2. Hey Gang... I've got a member here that is looking for information on ECM shops/rebuilders that could possibly test and repair a ECM. I'm sure there was a few threads out here but I'm looking for currently good shops... Yeah I know there is a few of "Bad" shops too. Lets here it guys... Oh... If you want you can post you information to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2897-Help-911-Diesel-Down?p=21913#post21913
  3. First off let’s start off with saying I’m glad I found your site!!! Great Job and keep up the great work!!! I have been in the Cummins thing for many years, I use to be the admin on the old SETDR site if some of you remember. That site is what kicked off the Diesel Garage and Comp Diesel sites. When SETDR died I kinda laid back and focused on other things in life. I have an 01 Dodge Cummins ( Big Red )with DD4’s, 5” exhaust, hx35 w/boost elbow, Edge Drag Comp, all the gauges, Holley blue pusher pump ( which I started the installation craze) and a full blown Sun Coast Comp Tranny w/triple lock Tq Convertor, So she’s pretty stout and build to my likeing. Last dynode @ 437hp 1050 tq. Nuff about me and on to the issue: I don’t drive her much since my job gives me a work truck to drive and foots the fuel bills. I went to NY for a family wedding and while I was gone we had a lightning strike here at the house. I mean it blew the phone lines off the walls and blew the main breakers on the power panel. Yea that close. After that time I when to get in Big Red to load her up to make a dump run and she was in I guess a Detuned mode. The truck starts fine and idles fine, but when you hit the go pedal it immediately jumps to 1300 RPMs and stays there until you let off. Then it’s back to idle. Checked the code and got P0236, P0237, and P1689. TS and got a new Map Sensor and still P0236, P1689. Unhooked all Edge comp connectors and went back to factory which cleared P0236 but still have P1689 and same idle/1300 RPM issue. Cleared the code many times with code reader and shorting + and – battery tremanals for 30 sec’s, the whole 9 yards. Yes Edge Comp is Dead, and will take it to Edge next week when I visit Daughter in Utah next week. So where to go next? Gonna do the P1689 Troubleshoot steps here to try and see if ECM is bad or what. The question? Is it possible that the EMP Pulse from the lightning could have fed through the Edge comp and blew the Map, ECM, and or VP? Anything is possible I guess. I’d like a sanity check here first before I start blowing megabuck on throwing parts at this thing. Pleas chime in and let me know your thoughts!~!!! Michael It was me that tried to call you this morning on the phone to see what you think. Call me back at the number I left for you in you can. Thanks in advanced JG
  4. Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch is odd (I fully intend to take the truck out get it to temp and c if i can get a video of the tube or at least pics and I'll try to get a pic of the fluid) and the other concern is my truck has been smokin like it has been modded with jus about every mod u can find the thing is all it has is a bhaf and a str8 piped exhaust the high idle mod shouldnt matter and I'm to cheap to have guages thats this winters project:lol: most of the time it is thick black to the point of clouding an intersection to the point of not being able to see a stoplight in my rearview and other times if I jump it real hard there be a white kinda blue hint thrown in ther is my turbo failing or is it something else and F.Y.I the air cleaner was removed then broke down an throughly cleaned it all the turbo inlet and air itake pipes appear to be clear and dry, the turbine spins freely and the axial end play is spec. any thoughts are greatly apprechiated and thanks much in advance
  5. a while back my truck went bezerck. surging, little or no throtle response, cruise control coutting on and off, temp gauge swinging wildly from 0 to max and the engine was surging while indeling and me standing beside the truck. i was already having some dead pedal issues and had puechased a new vp44 from blue chip diesel. thinking that might be causing the problem i installed the injector pump with no change. I had multiple high and low voltage codes on the iat, tps, temp and map sensors. also had codes on the cruise control, tach, system voltage. did some test on the tps and replaced no change, replaced the temp sensor no change, clock spring nochange, speedo(on board diagnostic said it was bad) no change. I cleaned and reconnected every ground i could find and checked the wiring to the sensors to the best of my ability and could not find any thing wrong. figured it must be the ecm and replaced. The surging and cruis control malfunction seem to have stopped. I still very little throttle response and the temp gauge pegs right after starting a cold engine. i connected a scan tool and erased the codes and the following is what i have left; 112, 1286, 1475, 563, 122, 343, 117, and 237. the scan toll showed the engine temp and air temp to be 293 degrees i guess thats why there is so little throtle response due to the enging thinking it is hot. i have checke the voltage to my tps, iat, map, and tps and all are around 5 voltsand appear to be functioning properly/ i recalibrated the tps with the pedal only did not know might have to adjust the voltage per the sticker on the back. i will do that when i get home. i checked resistance on the temp and iat sensors and they both seem to be fine. i did get a 606 code that i never had until replacing the ecm, but replacing it did cure a couple of my ills. i am not an electronics guy by any means but i am learning as i go. Has anyone encountere anything like this.
  6. Ok gang I need you guys to double check me on this here...Truck Specs: 2002 Dodge Cummins - 128K miles - 2500 - Stock(No its not my truck!)Error Code list:P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0118 - ECT Sensor Voltage Too High Engine coolant temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltageP0238 - Map Sensor Voltage Too High MAP sensor voltage input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High InputP0563 - Charging System Voltage Too High Supply voltage sensed at ECM too high.P0577 - Cruise Control Related MalfunctionP1286 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Supply Voltage Too High High voltage detected at APPSP1475 - Aux 5 Volt Supply Voltage High Sensor supply voltage for ECM sensors is too high.I've not had a chance to verify the battery volts while running. But at idle the engine is randomly reving up to nearing 2K on the tach. Gauges are going wild all rising up randomly. Durin the short time I was there the coolant temp gauge pegged out (cold engine).My thought on it is the PCM voltage regulator is fried out... But I want to make sure and double check myself against the group here...
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