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98.5-----5 speed. Having an issue where I'm not getting the starter to engage the flywheel. Starter will go, but will not turn over the engine. Batteries are brand new as are my cables (I'm 100% sure that my connections are all good.....now ) The story........................ This initially started out as just a "1 click, no start" when turning the key; it also threw a code. Went underneath to to check the starter cable.... I unfortunately caused an arc because the connection was loose and I'm fairly confident I made something go crispy critters in the starter. I only had one negative disconnected so I learned the hard way ; save the lecturing, all you can do is laugh. Went back to start again and now I'm at the "not engaging the flywheel" situation (truck also is NOT throwing any codes NOW). I guess I'm just curious as to what my next step should be. Is the starter more then likely toast? Anything else to check? Truck ran excellent when it was stored back in November so I can only assume I FUBAR'd the starter just now. Just want to get the truck running. Thanks fellas.

99 Vp44 truck cranks slow and then quickly sounds like a very weak battery condition as far as the starter sound. It sounds like the starter is not giving enough power to turn over, then it barely starts. When it starts, it runs great(like usual). I even had someone else test my batteries and they are both new. I checked starter wiring, and it is all clean and tight. Any suggestions? Starter? it's about 3 years old.Thanks ahead of time,Will

Howdy folks, Been working to much to be around here lately. Still working to much, but thats better than not working at all.<br><br>I am having a slow start problem. The starter is turning the motor to slow like my battries are weak. I cheked the batteries this morning before starting and they read 12.5v before starting and after sitting all night. When I hit the switch it turned slowly and the voltage dropped to near 10.5. Thge engine started after a couple of seconds. It seems to start alittle slower thru the day. Iam getting worried one time it is not going to start. <br><br>The alternator is putting out 14v while running. When I first get in and turn the switch on the volt meter in the truck isx sitting near 12v and the DVM is reading 12.5. After it starts it takes about 30 to 45 seconds for the voltage to get up to 14v. It seems to me it used to not take that long to reach just past 14v and the truck gauge.<br><br>I have not had much time to investigate the problem and tomorrow will be about the only day I wil have. Just wondering what you folks think might be wrong.

Omg the starter is super easy to remove rebuild and install!!! i removed the filter assembly for easy access to the top bolt but after i loosened it from underneath.as typical the battery side was burnt away and replacement of them was simple. i took the end off the motor to inspect the brushes and commutator and the look new but used, plenty of life on them!!

Okay so my truck has done this a few times. I hit the key and all I get is a click. Just one "click" and no start. It did it the other day and I was able to get it to jump start it with my girl's car. I tested the batteries and they test out fine. I decided to drop the starter and see if I could tell anything but I don't know really what to look for. I replaced the plunger and contacts a while back (maybe a year) and they don't look bad from what I can tell. What I'm looking for is ideas please!

My friend who is helping me with my vp44 install. Has the same truck as me (see sig). His truck has been clicking when he would turn the key click click click. He would just turn it off and it would then start. It got to the point where it was annoying and he first switched the fuel relay over to the starter relay to see if that would make a difference and it still clicked. ( I am not sure if they are even the same relays) ? So he decided to put a new starter in tonite. Well now it just clicks once and it will not start. If you hot wire it from the batt to the starter it starts right up. Any thoughts or Ideas we can try when he comes over tomorrow. Would really like to try and help him get his fixed.Thanks Rob

Well... My starter is not hitting all the time anymore and I know the starter contacts are to blame. So I guess its time to make a order to LarryB and get a rebuild kit for the old starter... I'm going to pull the starter out tomorrow morning and pull it apart to inspect everything so while I'm at it I'm going to have the cameras handy and make a write up of it...

Wish me luck.... I have yanked a starter before, to replace my CPS on my old 99...So I know what thats all about but opening it up is gonna be something new... doesnt seem that hard...I got the new contacts and plunger in the mail today, have poured over threads about it, and it doesnt seem that hard. Starter had been been clicking a few times here in the last month, off and on..and yesterday the starter hung on me for a second...truck clicked, then I tried again, she fired and the starter stayed on...shut it down and the starter stayed on...quickly started it again and the starter shut off...no damage to the starter it all happened within about a 20 second window...but I am glad I ordered those new contacts on tuesday....cuz she is on her last leg... any tips or advise on once I get her on the bench to open up... thanks NCA. PS..88k on the origional starter...everything I have read says starters are lifetime and contacts and plungers are good for around 100k...seems about right to me.

it is interesting to note that the FSM says to replace the whole starter, instead of servicing the wear parts. it worked with no problem...then one day....*click*click* i wondered if you could push start a diesel, but realized that i couldn't get that truck up to speed to even try:lmao: i will mention that while i was waiting for $ and shipping to my door, i took the contact that was the most wore, and made the hole for the stud longer to allow the contact to be closer to the plunger. worked no problems until i got the contacts(6 months later, i know im a procrastinator) (1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. (2) Raise and support vehicle. (3) Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid battery terminal far enough to access and remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 10). (4) Remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid terminal stud.(17mm) (5) Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs. (6) While supporting starter motor, remove three bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing(8 or 10mm 12 point bolts, use box wrench or suitable socket) (7) Remove starter motor from engine (certain diesel engines have an aluminum spacer mounted between the starter and the starter mounting flange. Note position and orientation of spacer before removal). now you can take the nut on the other side off(15mm). then a phillips screwdriver removes the 3 cap screws. when the cap comes off the plunger springs out. there is a little ball behind the spring(mine didn't come out, but remember it is there, don't lose it). with the plunger out of the way, you can take the out side nuts off the studs. because of the plastic guards, i could not get a good enough bit with a wrench. and impact wrench made short work. with the nuts off, you can remove the studs. the contacts are press on the studs. swap the old contacts for the new ones. try to keep the contact touching the backplate while tightening the nut(they try to twist when you tighten). take the spring off the old plunger and place on new one. put the ball in if it came out. insert new plunger. replace cap. connect the to the stud and install starter on truck!