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FASS regulator with Fuel Boss

leathermaneod
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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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Hi all,

I am looking for guys running the Fuel Boss with the FASS regulator (or similar) instead of the bypass valve it comes with. I would like to try it on mine but I'd like to find some info before I drop $140 on the regulator. I have the fuel boss and I like it, but I'd like to keep my fuel pressure a little more steady. So I'd like to talk to someone running this combo who can tell me how it actually works out. 

TIA!

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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I have a Fuel Boss, and I am using the bypass valve that it came with it.  My pressure doesn't fluctuate, it is very steady.  What are you seeing?  What type of gauge?  are you using a snubber or needle valve?  The only time I see my gauge bouncing around is when my needle valve is open too far.

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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Mine will go from about 16 or so at startup to about 19 or so at 2000 rpms. Then at idle usually about 17 but sometimes 16. I have an Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a snubber and needle valve. I just added the needle valve to get rid of a slight needle bounce. Over all my numbers are not terrible, but they just aren't very consistent and id like to make it a little more steady. I also am using the tuning kit for the bypass valve because when I first got it pressure was about 14 at idle. Like I said I was just hoping the FASS regulator would be able to keep it more solid, but I'm trying to find out before buying one. 

3 minutes ago, CSM said:

Bet you have an air leak somewhere on the suction side of the fuel boss.. 

It's possible I guess but I don't really have the symptoms for that I don't think....pressure is steady at idle. It's just not very consistent. Other wise it acts like it should....id just like to get it more steady and figured the FASS regulator should do that.

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notlimah

notlimah

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I feel like if my fuel pressure was too steady I'd think something was wrong! haha

 

I don't really have much of a spread... maybe 1-2psi from idle to WOT. The only thing that changes is my beginning idle psi. Sometimes on colder mornings I'll idle around 16.5-17psi, then after some driving I'll be up to 18-18.5psi @ idle and 17-17.5 @ WOT.

 

Typically you hear of people wanting to have a regulator in their systems to avoid a psi drop into a zone that's not good for the VP. You have the opposite 'problem' since the fuel boss only increases with rpm. If your between 16-19psi I'd say leave it be. You're never going to be in a danger zone or even 'yellow' zone for VP fuel pressures so why mess with it? I'd be more worried about installing the regulator and in turn having fuel pressures end up where I don't want them.


Just my :2cents:

 

Like I've mentioned in some of your other threads, it's your truck and if not how you like it then change it!

 

I just like to play devils advocate sometimes! :evilgrin:

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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4 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Try going from 22 to 9. I'm not worried about how low it goes though because that only happens with the programmer set to kill. Normally it only gets to 15 at wot on milder tunes 

Wow that's crazy. i can adjust the bypass valve I have, but it makes a mess because of having to open the fuel line. And it's really hard to get it dialed in so it doesn't go below 15 or over 20. I was just hoping the FASS would regulate better. Btw Tyler, does your Autometer pyrometer have a stop pin? Just curious because mine does not, and at key off the needle drops way down past zero almost to 6 o'clock. However, I just disconnected it and sent it in to Autometer to get checked out, and with it unplugged the needle sits at 0. Really weird. What does yours do?

As far as the pressures, I know Mike says 14-20 are the magic numbers. Has anyone ever tested or have info on what happens with pressures over 20? Lots of guys run a little over so I'm curious...

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notlimah

notlimah

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Ok this is what I get for posting when too tired! To clarify...

 

The diaphragm is what I was referring too, and in the past it'd crack due to low fuel pressures. These have been upgraded to a harder plastic or metal type material which eliminates the issues.

 

If by fuel solenoid you mean pintle valves then yes, that can be an issue wrt hit starting troubles. And if that's the case it's having hard starts because the VP is getting too much pressure at start so wiring in a relay or switch would be needed.

 

Hope that clears it up.

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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On ‎4‎/‎21‎/‎2016 at 9:08 PM, leathermaneod said:

but it makes a mess because of having to open the fuel line. 

Try using a pair of these to clamp off the hose in front and behind the pressure regulator.  I use them in conjunction with a drain pan.  You will lose very little fuel with no mess.

0990297I-21[1].jpg

  

 

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