2001 24 VALVE 230k miles p0122 Maybe vpp

[ItzReckless]

INSTALLED TIMBOS TPS , RUNS GREAT WELL, GOT TO RUNNING TEMP,  A LITTLE OVER 190 ON GAUGE AND DIED WELL NOT VP THAT'S GOOD RIGHT  ,   well what a causing my lift pump to shut off ? Should I go exhange lift pumps again and yet once more try it ? 

Fuel pumps on but still not starting hmm 

[CSM]

ltz.  

 

I mean this kindly, bud.  I would like to see you happy and able to fix your truck.  

 

To effectively do that, it would be courteous to us and would make people more motivated to help you if you try writing as clear a response as possible.  Writing in all caps is understandable sometimes, for really old farts, but isn't necessary here. 

 

This is a written dialogue with us being 24 valve enthusiasts, who like to help others.  It is easier if you answer questions, and keep things as clear as posslble.  

 

I know you are capable of communicating clearly and taking the time to give this community the respect they deserve for helping you.  It is a good group of dudes.  If you can't, you can leave.  You aren't 85 years old and illiterate. 

 

Edited September 23, 2016 by CSM

[ItzReckless]

Caps was accidental ,sorry .

As far as truck its running but shuts off when something gets warm enough:( 

[CSM]

I wouldnt start it again until you figure out the fuel lift pump.  You will kill or further damage the injector pump.  

[dripley]

You could just hot wire the lift pump, not the VP, from the battery to see if stays running. You also need to know if that pump is putting out any pressure while it is running. You can hook a test gauge to the shrader valve on the VP inlet to test it. Not sure if you have already tried this.

[ItzReckless]

Trucks currently at a very sought after mechanic , if the vp 44 is gonna fail it's not gonna do it because of me , this mechanic should find it very quickly , I told him issues like it'll run fine fires right up this morning,  then after running temps it dies, you people telling me to diagnostic the lift pump itself brand new , so I'm not going to change it in and replace once more , my concerns at this point would actually be the suction in tank stopping the pump up and getting it warm,  any ways guys appreciate help maybe this automotive tech will fix it 

1 minute ago, ItzReckless said:

Trucks currently at a very sought after mechanic , if the vp 44 is gonna fail it's not gonna do it because of me , this mechanic should find it very quickly , I told him issues like it'll run fine fires right up this morning,  then after running temps it dies, you people telling me to diagnostic the lift pump itself brand new , so I'm not going to change it in and replace once more , my concerns at this point would actually be the suction in tank stopping the pump up and getting it warm,  any ways guys appreciate help maybe this automotive tech will fix it 

I Sound so stupid I mean electrical issue causing pump to turn off 

[Mopar1973Man]

Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM so that means there should be an error code possibly like P0230 code. Still need to test the alternator for excessive AC noise issues. Being there is no fuse or relay controlling the lift pump. 

[ItzReckless]

On ‎9‎/‎23‎/‎2016 at 11:02 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM so that means there should be an error code possibly like P0230 code. Still need to test the alternator for excessive AC noise issues. Being there is no fuse or relay controlling the lift pump. 

well man could the CPS cause it, atm the trucks at the mechanic but idk anymore, I drove it just fine to his shop turn of and left kinda on slant! well it wouldn't start , but it seems as if he got it started now because it has been moved, but still same issues!

[ItzReckless]

one more question guys I belive my return line next to the FACTORY lift pump is leaking I see fuel build up! would that cause my issue

 

[GSX455]

The return line goes back to the tank, it should not be under that much pressure to see a rapid leak.

  

Also, what is your fuel pressure to the VP44? I know folks have asked.   You can check with the tapped banjo bolt off the fuel filter housing.

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-test-kit/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-part

 

Do the codes keep coming back once you reset with your OBD II scanner?    Also, the behavior stemming from the temp at 190 and the problem with it dying when shifting into drive seem ECM related, .    Have you done checking of the ground connections?  My 2001 has a habit of electrical issues unless my battery negative terminal is tight.   Have you check the ASD relay, or replaced that yet?  

 

Good luck

 

[ItzReckless]

9 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

The return line goes back to the tank, it should not be under that much pressure to see a rapid leak.

  

Also, what is your fuel pressure to the VP44? I know folks have asked.   You can check with the tapped banjo bolt off the fuel filter housing.

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-test-kit/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-part

 

Do the codes keep coming back once you reset with your OBD II scanner?    Also, the behavior stemming from the temp at 190 and the problem with it dying when shifting into drive seem ECM related, .    Have you done checking of the ground connections?  My 2001 has a habit of electrical issues unless my battery negative terminal is tight.   Have you check the ASD relay, or replaced that yet?  

 

Good luck

 

everything except check pressure , which is good until vehicle dies then pressure just stops so whats point in checking it doesn't cut out

 

I understand PRESSURE is key to these I will go buy a pressure gauge kit from oriellys if they have one I'm beginning to thing ecm

 

58 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

The return line goes back to the tank, it should not be under that much pressure to see a rapid leak.

  

Also, what is your fuel pressure to the VP44? I know folks have asked.   You can check with the tapped banjo bolt off the fuel filter housing.

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-test-kit/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-part

 

Do the codes keep coming back once you reset with your OBD II scanner?    Also, the behavior stemming from the temp at 190 and the problem with it dying when shifting into drive seem ECM related, .    Have you done checking of the ground connections?  My 2001 has a habit of electrical issues unless my battery negative terminal is tight.   Have you check the ASD relay, or replaced that yet?  

 

Good luck

 

codes have stopped except 1388 and sometimes 1389 idk

 

[dripley]

A leaky return line will cause hard starts. It allows air into the fuel system allowing the fuel to flow back to the tank. It should not have anything to do with the engine shutting down at temp.

[ItzReckless]

On 9/22/2016 at 11:12 PM, dripley said:

Ignore accidental quote 

Guys trucks running fine after new ground terminal , but I got on it after a corner and it kinda surged a little I may have been tripping,  but the air tube in tank im gonna inspect today 

 

[ItzReckless]

Truck won't start gets fuel to injectors 

But 1689 Code Comes UP BUT I pulled relay 

Got into vehicle,  WAIT TO START  came on it fired right up,  is this pointing to ecm 

Now truck won't start it died while driving again Felto lack of power but everything's on 1388 is appearing,  but I've checked everything 

 

[ItzReckless]

truck restarted , drove a little, CHECK GAUGES came on and I think I hear a weird alternator noise batterys wont charge

 

 

 

I may have fried my alternator idk

 

[ItzReckless]

Alternator fuse was blown my fault,  but checking ac noise , ready to give up 

[ItzReckless]

On 9/22/2016 at 11:12 PM, dripley said:

You could just hot wire the lift pump, not the VP, from the battery to see if stays running. You also need to know if that pump is putting out any pressure while it is running. You can hook a test gauge to the shrader valve on the VP inlet to test it. Not sure if you have already tried this.

Hey drip I got the truck running but it still just shuts off till it gets ready to turn back on, I don't wanna waste my money but should I just order a ecm and see if it's theasier fix 

On 9/22/2016 at 11:12 PM, dripley said:

You could just hot wire the lift pump, not the VP, from the battery to see if stays running. You also need to know if that pump is putting out any pressure while it is running. You can hook a test gauge to the shrader valve on the VP inlet to test it. Not sure if you have already tried this.

Hey drip I got the truck running but it still just shuts off till it gets ready to turn back on, I don't wanna waste my money but should I just order a ecm and see if it's theasier fix 

[Hawkez]

Before you spent $800+ on an ECM that may or may not fix your issue, have you checked to see what FP you lift pump is putting out?  What were your results for testing the alternator for AC voltage? 

[ItzReckless]

My voltmeter is reading before I connect to something so I'm not sure it's acurate it reads .020  ish. Then I connect to negative and.then the power off alt and it is .054 ish. But I'm scared reading is wrong,  but I think it is ac noise , ive been looking for a fuel pressure gauge, excuse double post,  bad service 

[dripley]

I agree with @Hawkez on the ECM. Pretty pricey part to just throw on and hope it fixes it. Is your WTS light delayed in coming on? A few post back you mentioned that you pulled a relay and then turned the key and the WTS light came on and it fired right up. Which relay did you pull?