Jump to content

Recommended Posts

 The other day i got back home from a 2 hour drive and as I was pulling into my place the engine just shuttered and died.  Luckily I was able to start it back up and park it.  I went out the next day to see if it was still acting funny and it wouldn't start.  The lift pump wouldn't work all of the time and I had a carter unit on it.  So i ran a relay, ordered an airdog frrp100.  I have not gotten any codes off of my smarty, 15 psi to my vp44 and a fresh fuel filter.  I have no air going to the v44,  I installed clear hose to verify this.  I have cracked 1,3,4 injectors a million times.  Usually I can get it to run for 2-3 minutes one time  and then it won't run after that.  I have even hard wired, with a fuse, the vp44 and same thing.  I get fuel out of the cracked injectors, not sure if its enough though.  previously when it was cold,  I would put my auto trans in reverse and it would stall.  I would have to let it run for a while and let it warm up before I could go in reverse.     

 

2000 2wd with ats auto trans.  smarty turned  on for economy only                    Is my 44 dead with no codes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it is rare but I have heard of that happening with no codes.If you have hot wired the pump and still want work that is a pretty good sign it is bad. Check out this https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/. He has a lot of good trouble shooting info on the VP. I would hate to condemn with out codes.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What was your pressure before installing the AirDog?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, rrister said:

The lift pump wouldn't work all of the time and I had a carter unit on it. 

 

Does the wait to start light come on instantly?

 

Does the lift pump run the 25 seconds after a starter bump?

 

If the wait to start light does not come on the ECM is not booted up and brain dead. It will not start nor will the lift pump run. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the VP44 was truly hot wired and still wouldn't start or run that takes the ECM out of the equation...but I believe that by unplugging the IP it will throw an CEL and a code.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

the carter showed 12-14 psi, but i replaced it because I was worried that it had the pressure and not enough flow.    after having this problem and trying to diagnose it i found out that the lift pump wasn't  running on every bump.  the truck hasn't stayed running long enough to find out if the lift pump stays running every few times that it will start.

 

Just tried cranking several times.  the wait to start came on the first time, and 4 times after, it did not.

 

When i hot wired the vp44 there is a chance that I didn't try long enough or enough cranks.  It did not like doing it, didn't want to wast 1000+ if i didn't have to

 

best places to shop for a new/refurbished ecm?

 

thanks    all for helping me with this

Edited by rrister

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, rrister said:

Just tried cranking several times.  the wait to start came on the first time, and 4 times after, it did not.

 

WTS only comes on for the initial first key on. After that WTS will not light again till at least 15 second key OFF event to reset the ECM. So check again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, rrister said:

best places to shop for a new/refurbished ecm?

That's the $Million question.   Before settling on the ECM, you need to verify that your VP44 is good or bad.  When you hot wire the VP44, that will take the ECM out of the equation.  Meaning, if it started and idled fine when the IP is hot wired, that would tell you that your VP44 is good and you have a problem elsewhere (ecm/wiring). 

If it doesn't start or idle with the IP hot wired then you are most likely looking at a bad VP44.  Your not going to damage the VP44 by hot wiring it, as long as you hook it up correctly.  If you can get it to start hot wired you will not have any throttle control, it will only idle.  Also, to shut the motor off you will have to remove the power from the VP44, your ignition switch will do nothing. 

More than likely, if you don't have codes it probably isn't your ECM.  What are you using to measure fuel pressure?  Are you certain it isn't a clogged or dirty filter? Water in your fuel?  Is your engine able to breathe? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

i took the ecm out to see if dodge would scan it.  nope they said i have to bring the whole truck in.   so i plugged it back in and tried to start it now i am getting p0123  throttle position circuit high input.

 

moparman i now see what you are saying about the 15 seconds.  

 

i am going to hotwire the vp44 again and bleed the crap out of it and see if i can get it to run

 

fresh fuel filter,  the old one was still good but replaced anyways,

no air going to the 44, verified by using a piece of clear tubing.

i have a bhaf and it looks good, i also disconnected the intake horn once to start it.

 

if it wasn't for everyone being backed up until the middle to end of july i would have already dropped it off.

 

Just got done cranking on it for a good while, with 1,3,4 lines cracked.  I got a good amount out of 4, tightened it back up, but never got anything to significant out of 1 and 3. 

all codes cleared except for having the 44 disconnected

 guess i will spend some time this weekend looking at 44's, reviews and warranty.

not looking to buy anything special  just something that will last and run good

 

thanks again

Edited by rrister

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is an article about Bosch Certified rebuilders. You might read over that and find out there is lots of vendors but you have to know if the VP44 pumps they are selling are being tested on a Bosch 815 test stand to calibrate the PSG unit. I know DAP and Vulcan both sell certified VP44 pumps. 

 

If you got the grid heater disconnected you could have a person cranking and give "very small" spray of starting fluid to the intake and see if that aids in starting. I've seen a few truck that refused to start unless a "small burst" of starting fluid was added to aid it in getting over the priming.

 

Sometimes the starter its self is worn out and can't get enough RPM's to start. This could be bad brushes and/or bad contacts. Bad cables I've seen a few where the cables rotted in the middle. 

 

If got another local truck with a hard starting that I'm going to assume is bad injectors. Being his injection pump I replaced myself and the fuel lift pump is new but unknown fuel pressure as of yet. Still got to verify that too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i got it to start on wd-40 but same thing it ran for a little bit and died. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




×