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VP44 PSG5 limitations read/write

rogerash0
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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31 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Why would the WTS light come on if the engine is warm?

 

Because the first instruction after booting up the ECM is to light the WTS light and check IAT temperature and determine if grid heat is needed. If not the WTS light is only a bulb check. If there was bulb problem or wiring issue there would be P0381 error code. Watch you have to watch for is is the WTS light coming on instantly with the key or delaying a bit. The delay is caused from AC noise and the AC voltage managed to damage the ECM RAM so now its having problems booting up.

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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If you are reading boost using the edge monitor they like to max out around 40psi for some reason. Had this issue when I was still vp powered.

 

Simple fact is if you want 600whp none of the injectors you have will support it. I have my personal favorites and know some others that build very nice injectors and would give you sticker shock over what ddp charges for their stuff.

 

If you want to drag race and run decent times, yes a lockup switch is needed.

 

Yes boosted launches will kill drivetrain parts. Oddly enough I do not seem to go through them like others. These trucks can be pretty tough.

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Me78569

Me78569

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1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Man, wow. Why would the WTS light come on if the engine is warm? I know there's the bulb check, but didn't this site (and the FSM) have the chart with how long it stays on for, for a given temp out? I don't recall it ever staying on when the engine was warm or it was warm out. My truck has gone thru 3 alternators somehow. I'm hoping those days are behind me. My batteries are at 12.7v resting. Two 2 yr old yellow top Oltimas.

Be very clear, does the WTS light come on EVERY Time you key on?  If the truck is warm it should turn off right away, but it still comes on.  

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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Yes, the WTS comes on every time I turn the key on. Instantly Im pretty sure, but I will take a short video to be sure. I previously bought a brand new Bosch alternator from Napa, the 136amp, because I read how problematic they were. I had also bought a new Mean Green in the past, when I had the motor installed, and I was told it was defective. So it got returned rather than swapped to save down time.

 

This morning, after talking to you guys, I noticed the WTS light didnt stay on, but my voltage was still going from 12.7 to 13.7. I could hear it in the motor initially, that's what made me look. The analog cluster doesnt show it, but my Edge display does. I was surprised, because the WTS light didnt come on, so I didnt think the grids would be cycling. The truck did start up without a hard start. I noticed my water separator drain was weeping ever so slightly, so I tightened it extra good n tight and hope that fixes my hard start. Otherwise the only thing left is the rubber fittings on the brass return T.

 

The truck is warm now, so I'll take the video of the WTS. When I previously measured AC voltage I thought it was low enough, but I cant recall if it was .01 (I think it was) or .1v. In my head I think .01-.03 was all that Moparman said was tolerable. There's a good chance those values are wrong in my head, so I'll measure it again here shortly.

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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Ya, by not coming on I thought it would be clear that meant staying on after the bulb check. My bad. I remember clearly the truck was running real good, I had no problems with it besides my AirDog dropping pressure down to 8-10psi on WOT pulls. That's why I took it in for a ECM reflash, because in their manual they say to do that.

 

Fast forward, I never got the ECM reflash, I got a PCM reflash, I had hard starts after that. Airdog had me install my original non-adjustable base which remains on the truck. I changed filters (tried 10 and 2 micron), changed water seperator, changed fittings, changed harnesses, changed all fuel lines, bought a new gas cap, they sent out a new AD200 motor, I installed a sump. You name it. Re-did all the relays in the fuse panel except the funky short square ones. Made sure voltage is proper @ 13.5-14.3. Typically its 13.7-14.0. I tend to watch it like a hawk after dealing with a limp mode and things. Now I have the AD200 motor on there, AD100 original non-adjustable base, I cut the spring down so Im 16-17 PSI at idle, 16 psi in drive not moving, 15 PSI with 5-10% throttle, and it'll still drop down to 11psi at WOT with the 50HP injectors. Drives me mad. Only reason I went with the AD165 originally /w the new motor was because my AD100 that came on the truck was rock solid at 15-17psi all the time. Ive given up on calling them.

 

jlbayes - It always seemed strange to me that 2nd gen injectors were so cheap. I still to this moment dont know who builds better stuff than DDP. Not saying they are the best by any means, but it seems that they carry the highest price tag. BD probably waivers close to them if I had to recall.

 

Im not looking to drag race, but if I a lockup switch improves daily driving then thats what I want. I've been meaning to put one in, but I know I have to use it right, and I dont know how to use it really. I can guess and get along, but generally to learn I must first break something. That's not a path Im trying to run down right now.

 

I'd almost take better driveability and less smoke than 600hp right now. We will see. I'll try to get a iquad and I've got the Edge's low end fueling turned down to 1 for now. I will continue to tune the WG. I'm seeing with the Edge boost elbow I only get 8 PSI @ WOT with the WG regulator full open (it's got a guage on it). With a normal 45* brass plumbing elbow I was seeing 45psi at WOT.

 

Also the truck when I first drove it with all these mods except it had the 1.10 cover on the S475 and a stock intake elbow on there, it made 53PSI. Ever since that day I've been looking to get the boost back, I think it was my billet intake mani from D&J that was slowly leaking. Since then I have got the 3.5" banks intake /w 3.5" tube on there. I also threw my drive pressure sensor in the intake elbow originally to compare the MAP sensor to Edge's sensor, and they were within 1-2psi of each other. I think the $80 Napa MAP sensor reacted quicker and was slightly more accurate. The Edge sensor readings seemed to lag behind it by roughly a second.

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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I took a video, but I don't have a way to upload it right now. It shows the WTS light coming on first before any other light by half a sec or a quarter second.

 

Thx for the insight on the grids Diesel.

I didn't realise quad had such better smoke control.

 

I bought DDP Injectors bc they were the priceiest I knew of. I wanted the best.

 

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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Infinite performance, Haley Speed Inc., F1 Fuel Injection are the ones I would consider for injectors. 12v & vp injectors are "cheap" due to being a mechanical poppet injector. Do not let advertising or price fool you. I have yet to see a set of ddp injectors come close to anything more affordably priced in performance. Industrial Injection is another that charges an extreme premium for a less than mediocre product.

 

I use a lockup switch daily on my stock 12v. Stupid sloppy stock 47re converter.

 

The edge is reading the sensor value across the bus. Likely why the resolution was worse.

 

You said you have a 1.32 on there now correct? That is where some of your boost went.

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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I lost 6-7lbs of boost with no changes to the truck after it's first couple months of being run with the new motor.

 

I recalled after going to the 1.32 when I used to have 6-7psi I had 3-4psi with the same load and rpm on the roads I drive to and from work daily (same driving style etc).

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA

 

I've watched that video before, probably from you on here.

Ya JL- I know I throw info out there incohesively too. Last time I did a pressure test was about a month ago after re-sealing the billet intake manifold with The Right Stuff. I took pics, some areas have only a quarter inch or less (maybe even an 1/8", I should refind pics) 

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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On the back of the alt, one post gives me 7.53-7.59v AC, the other gives .061v-.065v.

 

Off the charging cable at the alt I see .015vac.

 

All measurements on a hot engine with the turbo center section used as a ground.

 

When I bought the truck I read about the 53 block but could not find the casting at the time. I got it for $7100, it had the edge tuner, air bags, etc. I thought it was amazing. Well I started leaking coolant roughly a year after owning it, and right away I was able to identify the 53 in the casting. So $13000 plus 1k S&H later for a D&J motor, this is what I get.

Bad Port.jpg

I have pics of the rest of the exhaust ports. This one was the worst in terms of unburnt oil on the roof.

Bad seal in head.jpg

CNCd port.jpg

I noticed the very center of the ports were untouched despite their 5 axis CNC machine. My only explanation for this was the port height & angles were already optimized stock and they didnt want to disrupt the swirl in the cylinder. This is their stage 2 porting on the intake side. Stage 1 is exhaust side only.

intake.jpg

Valve seals.jpg

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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My exhaust side looked similar not as bad on oil resedue, wow on your valve seals nothing left, how many miles on rebuild. I'd be all over your rebuilder I don't care if you took it to the track every weekend it should last for quite a while. Unless you use send for oil. Just kidding of course. Looks like poor job to me.

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rogerash0

rogerash0

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Ya I wrote Jared about a month ago and typically he reply to emails same day. I should get on them but I hate being a pain in the *** and I know I'm gonna get the run around. It's embarrassing blowing white smoke all over while the engine is cold, and even some when it's warm if I don't rev it out.

Edited by rogerash0
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