Lockup bog/timing torque/general q's

[Me78569]

the solenoid wire black / orange is not a 5v, it is a open -> ground wire.   

 

IF you want to disable the pcms ablity to command lockup then you splice the lockup wire at any point, then cut between the splice and the pcm. 

 

I am guessing you will get a CEL.  

[trreed]

3 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

What did u do exactly?

Well, thought it would be a good idea to do a burnout.  It was not.  This is a Dana 80 too, so your 70 would definitely blow up.  

As for the timing, I'm not sure the orifice size on the Mach6's, but with my 6x0.013's, my daily timing is 17 / 21 / 23.5 / 27 / 30.  And then I have a tune where I'm not quite sure why I'm doing what I am, and that timing is 22 / 24 / 26 / 30 / 30 

Edited May 30, 2018 by trreed

[rogerash0]

I just set mine to 20/24/28/30 and did a burn out turning onto the parkway when I floored it. I assume you hit a pot hole or big bump or had it absolutely screaming? I wasn't trying to do a burn out, so it would suck to do what u did by accident.  She's running pretty good.

 

From what I understand, from talking to Don who makes the mach 6s, is the orfice size of the mach 6 is smaller than 6x0.013 but flow is very much comparable. He said the angle and how the hole is shaped is vastly more important than it's size. 6x0.013 is what I said I wanted and he said mach 6 is essentially that. I could tell he was hesitant to say the holes were smaller but that's in a way what he said by immediately mentioning not the size but how he tailors the orfices.

 

I bring that up bc I wonder why you brought up injector hole size in relation to timing.

Edited May 30, 2018 by rogerash0

[trreed]

Bigger orifice = bigger fuel droplets which usually means more timing is necessary to completely burn the fuel.

[rogerash0]

Ah perfect.

Also why don't you run 22/24/28/30. You mentioned 22/24/26/30 but in your other setup you run 27 (that would be on the 2500rpm slider).

 

I'm asking bc in the past my truck got violent and jerky with high timing, that's why I'm just now coming around to it. I think that was a fueling issue all along, though. Ever since I completely took my airdog apart 100% and cleaned poured engine oil over all the seals and cleaned everything pristine it's ran a ton better. Looks like I still hit 0 psi when I floored it and spun the tires today though. But that wasn't with a mechanical gauge to be 100% certain. It wasn't jerky and didn't buck, so my digital reading of minimum fuel pressure @ 0psi may be misconceiving.

Edited May 30, 2018 by rogerash0

[trreed]

The 22/24/26/30/30 numbers are on my dyno/idiot/severely over fueled tune that starts at 101% and doesn't get used on the road except for when I find myself in Nebraska with nothing to do and no one is around.  I was half trying to emulate a p-pump (with slightly dynamic timing), and half curious about what would happen.  

My mechanical pump will get sucked down to 11 psi at WOT.  Stays at 24 while cruising. 

[rogerash0]

Scratch that, im only running 18/21/25/29/30

 

Looks like I have more head room.

 

I'm running an airdog 200 4g on a airdog 100 base,, asump, no restrictions in the 1/2" lines what so ever, and gas cap 1/2 turn off so it vents 100%. I wish I had 11 psi at WOT!

 

My quad won't let me run higher than 18 & 21 degrees timing at 1500 and 2000 rpm respectively

Edited May 30, 2018 by rogerash0

[rogerash0]

4 hours ago, Me78569 said:

the solenoid wire black / orange is not a 5v, it is a open -> ground wire.   

 

IF you want to disable the pcms ablity to command lockup then you splice the lockup wire at any point, then cut between the splice and the pcm. 

 

Thank you!

[trreed]

2 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

My quad won't let me run higher than 18 & 21 degrees timing at 1500 and 2000 rpm respectively

Curious.  Mine will!  WIth your 14mm studs I doubt you will do anything to be able to lift your head.  With my 425's I'm sure I was close to breaking something here with as little fuel as it had..

Edited May 30, 2018 by trreed

[rogerash0]

I just mean on the menu where u input the static values that it wouldn't take moren. I noticed in real life when driving the live readout of the timing is all over the place, often times quite high.

 

I'm running o-rings too, if they're worth anything. I still haven't done a re-torque on my head bolts lol. One day

Nobody has a good cheap 300psi pump and fittings to do water meth injection on the cheap do they? I looked around and it didn't seem promising, but I should just jump on Grainger.

[Me78569]

update your vehicle profile.  The latest app profile has 20/26/30/30/30 as the limits

[rogerash0]

Crikey I just did the other week (month, now). I remember it was some weird hokey method that I don't remember. Will do tho. Thx

 

[Me78569]

just reselect the vehicle profile it should update and keep everything in place.

[rogerash0]

Perfect, tried it out on my phone and that did it. What's an update button for anyway. Thanks

 

If I lock the converter with my switch at a stand still in first gear my truck doesn't die. It does lock the converter in 2nd tho, and it shakes the truck . If I'm WFO I don't think it'll shake, it'll just scoot real hard. Any thoughts on how damaging that would be to do locked shifts 2-3 and 3-4 at wide open power levels? Talk about lower the timing lol

Armet billet input, billet output, sfi flex plate thats not billet and dpc triple disk, Dana 60/70,3rd gen stock size rubber /w 400lbs of sand over the rears

???? Thoughts

Edited May 31, 2018 by rogerash0

[Me78569]

Plenty of guys do locked shifts when drag racing......   again it is hard on stuff, but thats your choice.

[notlimah]

That’s weird if doesn’t lock in first. Do you not have your valve body enabled for first gear lock up? Even more weird it’ll lock in 2nd and not stall the truck. Mine’ll lock in 1st and stall the truck, that is if I hit the switch.

[rogerash0]

All I can say is it's a firepunk trans. It short shifts right thru first gear like a mofo tho. Drives me nuts because then it's under the curve in second gear instead of right in the meat of the power. Unless I floor it, then revs out and shift perfect. I called Lavon and he said he thinks green shirt springs are in the VB, which is the later / higher rpm shift spring.

 

I would like to pull the valve body  and do something about  that spring, but I'm a little hesitant to do it, as I am with everything I've never done. Disconnect the two sensors and keep track of where each bolt goes and it's probably not bad to drop the VB.

 

Is also told a pcm update made the earlier trucks shift a bit later, but my pcm has the most up to date flash.... I got to go in the back and see it hooked up to the crysler database.

Edited May 31, 2018 by rogerash0

[rogerash0]

This morning with just the key on i could hear insane clicking coming from the trans. I could hear it as I sat in the cab, over the aux trans cooler fan that draws 7-8amps (its fairly loud). Engine was off. I cut the pcm wire for no auto lockup and it functions great but I think it made a solenoid in the trans go ape. Ofcourse I can't tell with the truck running. Runs and drives great. 

 

Leaving work now, it's still happening and the frequency doesn't stay quite the same over the period of about 60sec. It'll start to speed up.

 

I might hook that wire back up this weekend. There's only one solenoid in the trans right? And then the gov pressure transducer, right?

 

It's a tick tick tick tick sound, like a turn signal relay that's dealing with a bulb out.

Edited June 1, 2018 by rogerash0

[rogerash0]

My Amazon tablet is running quad app v1.9.41 but won't update on the vehicles page. It also doesn't show the profiles phone gained during an update, "V2 Dodge 98-02". 

 

On the tablet I am running "V2 Dodge 1998-2002" version 2.7. This profile is still limited to the older lower timing values though, ie. 18/23/26/30/30

 

The truck responds to timing so well it's nuts. Seems like max the quad allows is best.

 

Not being able to run the higher timing values off my tablet is killing me.

[Me78569]

did you uninstall and reinstall the app on the fire?