Top hat valve seal and valve train

[trreed]

You're right about at that range.  Depends on your timing and fuel curves

[mossyoak71]

Well so far my exhaust valve seals have held up with the green gold. When I did them I cleaned the mating surfaces good then put everything together. I let it sit overnight before I started it. I have to change out injectors this weekend so I will recheck them and the intake ones. 

[Dieselfuture]

3 hours ago, mossyoak71 said:

I have to change out injectors this weekend so I will recheck them and the intake ones. 

Keep us posted. My modified top hats seem to be holding up too, but I really need to put more miles on before I can say for sure. 

[mossyoak71]

On 11/15/2018 at 10:16 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Keep us posted. My modified top hats seem to be holding up too, but I really need to put more miles on before I can say for sure. 

So all looks good. They looked like I just put them on yesterday. I have around 10k miles on them. So far so good.

[Dieselfuture]

5 hours ago, mossyoak71 said:

So all looks good. They looked like I just put them on yesterday. I have around 10k miles on them. So far so good.

What are you pushing for boost, do you have an exhaust brake. 

[mossyoak71]

Just now, Dieselfuture said:

What are you pushing for boost, do you have an exhaust brake. 

As far as boost goes I limited to about 50 52 cuz the head isn't o-ringed. Basically the reason why I got twins is so I can tow, but I like the power too. No exhaust brake don't need it for the 5r110 transmission that Ford has it basically will downshift when it's in tow haul mode. Now I have done some long extended runs on long straightaways and have hit 72 psi and backed off. But the head won't take much of that so I limit it.

[Dieselfuture]

Then it must be the exhaust brake that pushed my seals off hight enough to get bit up by retainers. Idk but still wish I had the head machined for top hat seals, the ones that are supposed to be used not the ones I used. I don't like the fact I have a small gap/cavity between top of guide and bottom of seal/lip. I believe that cavity will fill in with soot and contribute to more guide wear, for now I haven't used the exhaust brake much. 

[mossyoak71]

6 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Then it must be the exhaust brake that pushed my seals off hight enough to get bit up by retainers. Idk but still wish I had the head machined for top hat seals, the ones that are supposed to be used not the ones I used. I don't like the fact I have a small gap/cavity between top of guide and bottom of seal/lip. I believe that cavity will fill in with soot and contribute to more guide wear, for now I haven't used the exhaust brake much. 

I think my issues were from high drive pressure. I mean this is the first time I have ever ran twins and  I was a powerstroke guy so it's all new to me

[Dieselfuture]

2 minutes ago, mossyoak71 said:

I think my issues were from high drive pressure. I mean this is the first time I have ever ran twins and  I was a powerstroke guy so it's all new to me

In your case it probably was high drive pressure, in mine the only logical thing I can think of is exhaust back pressure, that I heard can get in 70-80 range. I never seen anything more than 45psi, maybe 50 of boost for short bursts. 

Or I'm just hard on my truck and drive it like I stole it, which on a rare occasion I do. Still never had an issue till I had the head redone. I'd hate blaming a shop for this but in this case they could of at least told me that top hats was an option, I would of definitely spent extra 80 bucks to not deal with this. 

[jag]

I was going to do the valve seals this weekend, but the stock & Hamilton springs do not fit over the bottom lip on the SS45933 (4 litre Ford v-6) (VC-292) The springs are .073 , seals are .079. Anybody need some Ford seals?

 

[Dieselfuture]

I used Manton pushrods conical springs, fit fine. So far no issues. 

[jag]

It is an excellent idea for sure. Just don't need $450.00 springs to install a &1.00 seal.