Time for a turbo rebuild.

[Sycostang67]

I went to remove my filter to look at doing the lockup switch the other day.  I noticed an oily mess on the  firewall and around the A/C components.  At first I thought my A/C was leaking though it still works great.  I checked the turbo and noticed a fair amount of shaft play and the blades are turning black and sticky.  It also appears oil is seeping out the back side of the housing as well which is where I think the mess came from.  I was really hoping to do something different with the turbo when this happened but unfortunately I am strapped for cash as I can barely afford the rebuild.  I dropped the turbo off at Master Tech in Boise as they came highly recommended and we also do a lot of business with them through my other job.  Hopefully I'll have it back Monday or Tuesday.  At least the weather is nice for the next week and I can enjoy driving my mustang for a bit. 

[Sycostang67]

My luck just keeps getting better, apparently there was a crack in my exhaust housing.  There's more money I don't have.  I probably could have gotten a better turbo by now.  

[Mopar1973Man]

 

That right there is caused by a failing air filter. 

 

Turbo rebuild is super easy. Cost about $50 bucks for the kit from DAP. I rebuilt my HX35/40 before installing the turbo. Thanks to @CSM for the hand me down turbo. 

[Sycostang67]

Would the crack be partially responsible for my lack of boost lately?  After I did the turnbuckle on the waste gate I could get 30-33 psi, but lately I'd been having trouble getting higher than 26psi. 

[trreed]

It depends on where the crack is.  I've had plenty of turbine housings with cracks along the divider of the two volutes (viewed by looking in where the turbine sits) and this type of crack doesn't typically affect performance.  If the crack is in the waste gate bore, then yes, it would leak exhaust and you would see reduced performance. 

[Sycostang67]

The cracks, there were 2, were both going into the waste gate opening, one of them was quite large. 

 

Due to a mistake made by their supplier, I got a brand new turbo.  They said they were checking the price of a new turbo vs exhaust housing and decided to order the housing but were sent a complete turbo instead.  They let me have the new turbo for the cost of the rebuild.  At least I have a warranty and they said putting my turn buckle back on the waste gate wouldn't void it.

[Sycostang67]

I got the turbo back on tonight, made sure to pre-lube the heck out of it.  Then I let it idle for 15 minutes and took it for a spin.  It worked great on the first pull, then my turn buckle fell off, lol.  I hopped on my bicycle and went looking for it.  I did find it so I'll have to put it on tomorrow when the motor is cool again.  I forgot to get my 2 mounting studs from my old housing so they gave it to me to remove them, here are the pics of the cracks.  The shaft was a nice shade a dark blue around the middle, presumably from not letting the turbo cool before shut down.  It's something I have been doing the last few months after I heard about it and will continue to do with the new turbo. 

[Mopar1973Man]

10 hours ago, Sycostang67 said:

The shaft was a nice shade a dark blue around the middle, presumably from not letting the turbo cool before shut down.

 

Actually, most the time that I see cracked exhaust parts is from people running way to high of EGT's for way too long. Cooldown only affects the bearing life because of oil coking up on the bearings on the shaft. Like myself, I've never cracked an exhaust manifold yet nor an exhaust housing. I've always kept a watchful eye on my EGT gauge after I found out YEARS ago that its possible to push a "completely stock" ISB Cummins up past 1,400*F towing over a 7% grade. 

[Sycostang67]

I meant the shaft bluing was most likely from the lack of cool down.  The housing cracks were most likely from my heavy foot.  I have hit 1350 a couple times with my comp box, hence the reason I got the CTS to warn me before I do that again.  I have it set to alarm at 1150 so I know to back off the throttle. 

 

I got my turn buckle back on today and was able to keep it on this time.  Even though it's the same model turbo, it works much better than the old one, spools quicker and I don't have to push near as hard to hit 30psi.