98.5 Electrical Issues

[sooxies]

Going to try and keep this from becoming a long novel...I basically have 2 separate issues in 1 thread (might be related).

 

Long story short, I have been having these intermittent surging issues since late May of this year (happened 4 times I believe).  Fast forward to now I am dealing with three things:

 

P1693

P1698

 

High Parasitic Draw

 

 

For the longest time I was getting a solo P1693 with my scanner which as I understand cannot exist by itself.  I also was having issues erasing/reading codes (sometimes).  For whatever reason, I unplugged my only added electronics (gauges) and I finally got the 1698 to show up on 8/22.  I'm not sure if unhooking them actually helped me or if I was just lucky to get the 1698 to show.  Anyways, truck started fine but idled rough (same symptoms I had in the past).  Also, I just so happened unhook my scan tool while the truck was idling and it would die immediately once the OBD port lost  connection with the scanner.    

 

I come back from a trip (8/26) and my batteries are almost completely flat (just bought a new Fluke multimeter so I was anxious to try it).  I'm currently doing a parasitic draw test and I'm finding that unplugging the IOD fuse helps significantly reduce the reading on the meter but is still reading high.  Not sure how many milliamps is normal for these trucks when they are just sitting.

 

My dilemma is that I don't even know what to attack first.  Would it be logical to go after the parasitic draw issue first before the codes?  Or are they related?  Any thoughts with the truck dying when a scan tool was unplugged?  What other items would be good to check for parasitic draw other then unplugging fuses one at a time? 

 

I understand the IOD fuse controls a handful of things including the OBD port so I'm sure something could be said about that.  My AC noise was within spec with my former multimeter but I will now retest with my Fluke (once I charge my batteries back up and assuming it will start)  So far I have not found any blown fuses.  My alternator is new.  Batteries/cables/terminals were all replaced not long ago.  All ground coming off of the batteries were checked.  I have the wiring diagram for the 1998 model year truck.  Still trying to understand everything when it comes to electrical but I think I'm learning fast.  Detailed instructions are greatly admired once we can figure out a plan of attack.  I will respond as fast as I am able to.

 

Thanks!     

Edited August 27, 2018 by sooxies

[Mopar1973Man]

Pull one fuse at a time and measure the amperage draw. When you find the circuit with the high draw you know what you have to deal with. Basically, put your meter on DC Amp and pull a fuse and then touch the probes to the contacts of the fuse place you just pulled. This will measure the current draw for that circuit. 

[sooxies]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Pull one fuse at a time and measure the amperage draw. When you find the circuit with the high draw you know what you have to deal with. Basically, put your meter on DC Amp and pull a fuse and then touch the probes to the contacts of the fuse place you just pulled. This will measure the current draw for that circuit. 

IOD fuse was showing .153 DCA when the interior lights are on and then when i hold down the door sensor (device that turns lights off) it drops down to .023 DCA.  

 

PDC Fuses...

 

40A Tailer .095

50A Battery .378

 

When I turn to key on engine off I hear a click and then when I take the key back i hear another click.  As if something is clicking on then off.  Unfortunately not seeing WTS light immediately when key is set to on position.  There is no key in the ignition at all and the photo is showing what I am seeing.  Doesn't look like it but the WTS light is quite dim and both indicators are just sitting there illuminated.     

Edited August 27, 2018 by sooxies

[Mopar1973Man]

Here is all the power distribution.

[sooxies]

@Mopar1973Man Is it safe to assume the ECM is in need of repair/replacement with the WTS light issue?  Or is there any reason a separate electronic issue could cause this?

[Mopar1973Man]

25 minutes ago, sooxies said:

@Mopar1973Man Is it safe to assume the ECM is in need of repair/replacement with the WTS light issue?

 

Yes. If the WTS issue is present you need to do two things...

1. Have the alternator test for excessive AC noise and replaced if failing.
2. Then you can send your ECM for repairs and reinstall it in the truck.

[sooxies]

30 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. If the WTS issue is present you need to do two things...

1. Have the alternator test for excessive AC noise and replaced if failing.
2. Then you can send your ECM for repairs and reinstall it in the truck.

Update.  WTS light functions as normal with OBD2 scanner plugged in (all lights appear to be normal as a matter of fact).  So would this be a grounding issue?  At least for the OBD port?  Check engine is functioning and scanner shows both codes as noted above.  

 

So in regards to that,  with my multimeter, how do I go about testing the wires on the data port? i.e. AC/DC/volts/amps/ohms? 

[Mopar1973Man]

49 minutes ago, sooxies said:

So would this be a grounding issue?

If so still verify the alternator again then do the W-T ground mod.

 

 

50 minutes ago, sooxies said:

At least for the OBD port?

That ground is at the driver side kick panel most likely.

 

50 minutes ago, sooxies said:

So in regards to that,  with my multimeter, how do I go about testing the wires on the data port? i.e. AC/DC/volts/amps/ohms? 

 

Disconnect both end and measure ohm from end to end of each wire with both ends disconnected. This should show 0 ohms. 

[adamey1000]

I know that you are trying not to just throw parts at this issue, but with what you were describing and the fact that the WTS and other lights are staying on with the key removed, I would replace the ignition switch. It is only about a 15 minute job, and if I remember correctly it was under $50, but it was over a year ago, so I could be a few dollars off. At least that way you have eliminated one potential source of issues.

[Nekkedbob]

Dont forget that the qclb has a timer that keeps the seatbelts activated for up two 5 minutes after you close the door or when the door is open. To check for the draw open the driver side window, close the door then dont touch the truck for at least 5 minutes then reach in and pull one the driver side seatbelt. If the seatbelt is locked then check for a draw without opening the door. If the seat belt does come out you may have a bad seat belt controller under the center seat.

[sooxies]

18 minutes ago, Nekkedbob said:

Dont forget that the qclb has a timer that keeps the seatbelts activated for up two 5 minutes after you close the door or when the door is open. To check for the draw open the driver side window, close the door then dont touch the truck for at least 5 minutes then reach in and pull one the driver side seatbelt. If the seatbelt is locked then check for a draw without opening the door. If the seat belt does come out you may have a bad seat belt controller under the center seat.

Yes.  Thank You!  I did run across someone mentioning the seatbelt.  I will report back tomorrow.  Thank you to all!

[sooxies]

@Nekkedbob  Seat belt checked out fine.  It did take about half hour but they did lock up as they should.  Going to repeat and test for draw after 30 minutes.

 

The clicking noise I was hearing was coming from the AC compressor.  I unhooked it and the noise went away.  Again, was only hearing this when my scanner was not hooked into the OBD port.    

 

@Mopar1973Man

 

I'm getting correct voltage at pin 16 (which I assumed).  Not sure if I did this correctly, but for pins 4 and 5 I grounded my meter under the dash and then probed 4/5 on ohm's setting...Pin 4 read -1.9 and Pin 5 I could not get a reading (just read OL).

 

So is pin 5 the wire I should trace?

[Mopar1973Man]

Should be ground center of dash you may find through the stereo hole. Then the other is at the driver side kick panel. There is most likely ground the runs out to PDC then out to the fender but check the master plug in PDC.

[sooxies]

Alrighty.  Confirmed the parasitic draw is coming from the OBD2 port.  I see only 19 milliamps when i have my scanner plugged in.  Getting somewhere slowly!  Now onto wire chasing.  I went into my 1998 FSM and it states that pin 5 eventually ends up at G105 and pin 4 at G108.  I wish the grounds were labelled like yours are MoparMan.  Still searching through my FSM.  It's obvious wiring changes were made all throughout the 98-02 24-Valves. 

 

One day at a time...making progress.  

[sooxies]

@Mopar1973Man @adamey1000 @Nekkedbob

 

Jeez....that wouldn't be a loose ground wire for the PCM could it? 

 

 

I barely touched it and it slipped right out of the crimp.  I can only assume this will fix my issue!  Thanks for the help fellas!  Learned a lot about electronics in a short amount of time.  Time to re-check for AC noise and then ground wire mod.

 

I did order these cables from custombatterycables.com and they are very high quality.  The crimp sleeve that came with it to splice these wires was a dumb move on me but I needed to get the truck on the road at the time.  Time to learn how to solder.  I feel they should emphasize to solder these wires only.  Why even include a the crimp?  Again, I should have known better.    

 

 

[adamey1000]

That’ll do it! That would explain the intermittent communication with the PCM. I’m glad you found it. You will have to solder fill that connector like you would a battery terminal I would imagine. But do some reading on here and other sources on that. I’ll do some digging for the source material, but solder joints done incorrectly can wind up with serious corrosion issues.  It’s been a minute since I was searching that though. 

[Mopar1973Man]

2 hours ago, sooxies said:

I barely touched it and it slipped right out of the crimp.

 

Ummm... I don't like crimps. I would rather solder and shrink wrap the ends. Like that will never slip out that ring being it soldered together now.

 

 

How about the grounds? Those are not going to slip out of that ring terminal. Again soldered together. 

 

PS: Don't look at the wiretap with crimp terminals...

[adamey1000]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

PS: Don't look at the wiretap with crimp terminals...

I think we just got an up-skirt on @Mopar1973Man 

[Mopar1973Man]

 So I've got to take a whooping for that... 

Edited August 31, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[dripley]

Makes me feel better. I think you copied mine.