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Help I screwed up


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Not sure if this is actually my fault but upon my steering gear install one of the frame brace/ Sway bar bracket bolts stripped out. Turn out theyre is a nut inside the frame rail that is stripped and spinning out. Now what the heck do I do? I can see know possible way of getting another but in without cutting into the frame and that’s not what I want to do? Any suggestions? I’m worried about the sway bar flying off at some point becuase of only one bolt on the drivers side holding it up. 

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I'll be under mine tomorrow so I'll have to take a closer look. For now here's something to ponder. Take a pc. of say 3/8" thk. x 1/2" wide x 2" long flat stock. Drill and tap a 5/16-18 hole in the middle. Put it up into the hole and use a magnet or whatever to slide it back into place. The flat stock will span the hole already there and you have a new hole for the bolt to thread into. All measurements are approximate because I don't know the hole size but you get what I'm saying? Same basic idea as a toggle bolt you put in dry wall.

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Guest 04Mach1

Is it possible to just get the nut knocked loose off the frame and then use a self tapping bolt attaching the sway bar bracket to the frame just like GM does with many of their vehicles? Or maybe get the nut knocked off the frame and tap the hole in the frame for the next size bigger bolt.

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14 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

Is it possible to just get the nut knocked loose off the frame and then use a self tapping bolt attaching the sway bar bracket to the frame just like GM does with many of their vehicles? Or maybe get the nut knocked off the frame and tap the hole in the frame for the next size bigger bolt.

They’re is no way to get to the nut. I wonder about having the bolt hole welded in and drill and tap the thickness of the frame material but I hardly think that’s enough to hold well. 

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Looking under yesterday the suggestion I gave would work pretty well I believe. Might have to enlarge the existing hole a little. If you didn't like that here's another. There's a pretty large hole above in the frame side. Super glue a washer to the nut of your choice to hold them together. Now get if you don't already have one of those flexible neck magnets. Wrap tape around the outside of the magnet so it doesn't stick to the frame and feed it through. Might take a few tries to get everything lined up. Personally I hate to weld on a vehicle. Especially when they have electronics as sensitive and old as ours.If you go that route don't forget to disconnect the batteries.

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3 minutes ago, snowshoveler said:

I have in the past welded a wire to a nut and then slid it in a hole in the frame rail and manuvered it to the offending hole and then bolted it back together. If you have an opening even a foot away that you can get a nut in it might work for you.

Regards Chris

Thanks hatbis also an excellent idea.

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14 hours ago, dave110 said:

Personally I hate to weld on a vehicle. Especially when they have electronics as sensitive and old as ours.If you go that route don't forget to disconnect the batteries.

I've welded plenty on my truck, but I do disconnected batterys, both grounds and positives, haven't had issue, or so I think. Maybe my ABS brake light is part of that :think:

It's definitely important on a gassers, I've fried oxygen sensors before, wedding exhaust. 

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  • Owner

Darn steering box brace... Oversize tire places a lot of stress on the box and frame especially offroading. 


Glad I'm not in that boat nor do I require it. 350k miles on the OEM box and still not damaged after 16 years. It was mostly so the rust that killed my box where the rust got back under the seal and created the leak. Beyond that Ryan said my box was in excellent shape replaced the input cap and had it sold in less than 1 hour.

 

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Beyond that Ryan said my box was in excellent shape replaced the input cap and had it sold in less than 1 hour.

Wonder who got it and if they know who had it.... man that would be something to be proud of. Having a part that was previously owned by @Mopar1973Man with all that care and love and 350k, then if it can go another 350k and in 10 years or so do it again move it down the line, ahh just gets me going for some reason ha ha. 

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On 11/21/2018 at 11:23 PM, IBMobile said:

Weld in a stud then use a nut and washer to hold the sway bar bracket in place.   The new bolt I see there is not metric but grade 5 standard.     

Big Thanks to Martin here! I was able to weld a stud in place and fasten the  sway bar with nut and washer. Everything tightened up well its just a matter of seeing if it will hold up. I got a nice fat bead on both sides of the bolt. (Unable to go all the way around) 

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  • Owner
On 11/25/2018 at 8:43 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Wonder who got it and if they know who had it.... man that would be something to be proud of. Having a part that was previously owned by @Mopar1973Man with all that care and love and 350k, then if it can go another 350k and in 10 years or so do it again move it down the line, ahh just gets me going for some reason ha ha. 

 

Most likely some pup with a huge lift kit and oversized tire and end up breaking the box in no time flat. At least I know the box I got from Ryan has the same kind of care and attention my own box had and co be sure I've got a quality box now. 

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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Most likely some pup with a huge lift kit and oversized tire and end up breaking the box in no time flat. At least I know the box I got from Ryan has the same kind of care and attention my own box had and co be sure I've got a quality box now. 

I’m working my way towards a better life for my front end. 3:54 axles are next. Next set of tires will be 245s or 255s. 

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