Traded for a bit of a basket case

[Puller810]

Needed a quad cab, so I traded my old single cab for a 2000 24v auto with issues.

 

I've read on the dead voltage gauge issue (mine has it). I've replaced the alternator, batteries, cleaned the grounds on the fender well, frame, batteries, front core support and the issue still remains. Previous owner had an alternator that was internally regulated as it only had the power wire going to it and it charged but the gauge didn't work. I replaced it with a new factory alternator and now not only does it not show voltage on the dash, it doesn't charge. Easy checks to hunt down the issue?

 

2nd issue, I have the tq converter lock unlock syndrome. Its constant, unless you are  very steady on the pedal at hwy speeds. So far I've rerouted the ground wire away from the alternator and wrapped it with tinfoil. No change, the transmission shifts through all gears as it should. It has a triple disc converter and the trans has about 10k on it. Any suggestions on this? I know this stuff has probably been answered and I've done a few hours of reading which lead me to the things I've tried. Hoping to get a game plan together for the weekend and dig into it a little further. Someone has been into the wiring before as I spent a few hours redoing poor connections with soldered ones. Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[IBMobile]

1 hour ago, Puller810 said:

Easy checks to hunt down the issue?

Start here.

 

1 hour ago, Puller810 said:

2nd issue, I have the tq converter lock unlock syndrome. Its constant,

 

Try this 

or the fast way

 

[pepsi71ocean]

I would also do a vDrop test on your ground cables from the engine to each battery.

[Puller810]

Thanks! I'll start checking these things this evening. 

[pepsi71ocean]

2 hours ago, Puller810 said:

Thanks! I'll start checking these things this evening. 

 

My drivers side was failing when i did the drop test. I replaced it and the lock up issues went away, however i replaced the rest of the cables just to be safe.

[Mopar1973Man]

Charing system is pretty simple...The field lead. 

 

Blue should be +12 volt power with the key on. 

Green is a variable ground controlled by the PCM. 

 

 

[Puller810]

On 11/27/2018 at 11:08 PM, IBMobile said:

Start here.

 

 

Try this 

or the fast way

So I have 12 volts with the truck running on both blue and green wires? However I am only seeing 12.24 volts off the alternator? If I leave the blue and green wires unplugged it has the same voltage of 12.24. Its not charging for some reason. Brand new alternator that tests good also? I was hoping one of these wires were bad but of course not. Any other thoughts? 

 

I haven't done the w&t mod yet but thats next today as I worked a ton this week. 

Also on the W-T mod you disconnect the alt wire from the PDC correct and there is nothing to replace it? It doesn't specify and wasn't sure.

[Puller810]

Okay I finished the W-T mod. No change in the lock up\unlock converter deal. Any thoughts would be great. Gonna do a cable voltage drop in a few minutes.

[Puller810]

On 11/28/2018 at 2:18 AM, pepsi71ocean said:

I would also do a vDrop test on your ground cables from the engine to each battery.

.03 volt drop max so I think that is acceptable.

[dripley]

have you checked the ac ripple off of the alternator since doing the ground mod?

 

8 hours ago, Puller810 said:

 

I haven't done the w&t mod yet but thats next today as I worked a ton this week. 

Also on the W-T mod you disconnect the alt wire from the PDC correct and there is nothing to replace it? It doesn't specify and wasn't sure.

That is correct. The charge wire goes to the passenger battery and is removed from the PDC.

[Puller810]

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

have you checked the ac ripple off of the alternator since doing the ground mod?

 

That is correct. The charge wire goes to the passenger battery and is removed from the PDC.

 

I haven't as the alternator isn't charging. I'll do it tomorrow though. I did recheck the blue wire on the alternator (12V constant) and it doesn't have 12 volt now. Which also, according to the schematic feeds the trans relay (86 lead on the relay has no 12V either). I did find something odd on the trans relay. The previous owner had bent the ground leg of the relay over and ran a seperate ground to the fender instead of through the fuse panel? Ever heard of that? Best way to test the ground circuit on the under hood fuse panel?

[pepsi71ocean]

On 12/1/2018 at 8:07 PM, Puller810 said:

.03 volt drop max so I think that is acceptable.

 

Was this on both ground cables when cranking for example? I was going from the grid heater tops for mine.

@Mopar1973Man would be able to tell you, But I believe that's passing?

[Mopar1973Man]

Above 0.2 volts is a fail for voltage drop test.

[Puller810]

I'll put new grounds on this week sometime and report back. 

Yes, with engine cranking. .3 and .2 bouncing to .3 on driver side. Checking from battery to ground at the block. 

[Puller810]

So I was able to squeeze an hour in the shop tonight after supper. Buddy of mine had an internally regulated alternator we could throw on mine to use until I figure out why my lock/unlock problem. The computer regulated alternator was charging at 12.4-13 volts and occasionally not at all. This is my winter/work truck that sees 130 miles a day so I didn't want to chance losing my lights. 

I also made and installed the passenger side ground wire. Hopefully we only work 10 hours tomorrow and I can get the driver's side done. 

[Puller810]

Got both sides done, retested voltage drop and its great now. The converter lock works however very light throttle it will unlock which seems like its in the tune. The throttle is very touchy for power delivery. I have know idea on the tune through I-quad as it doesn't tell me whats in there when I connect? I'd like to put a tune that's not so touchy and has a more linear pull. I think it would help the tq converter lock\unlock as it takes very little throttle input to maintain 55-60 mph.

 

I'm reading up on the Iquad stuff, I used to hptuners, motec and bigstuff for turbo gas stuff so it shouldn't take long to have a general understanding.

 

The bad news is I think my converter is shot, I also installed a lock up switch and I can drive through the converter fairly easy. You can feel it trying to hold on but she's toast I believe. 

 

Still getting the the voltage gauge drop to 8 after the trucks been running for a few minutes so I'm pretty sure the pcm is shot.

[pepsi71ocean]

16 hours ago, Puller810 said:

Got both sides done, retested voltage drop and its great now. The converter lock works however very light throttle it will unlock which seems like its in the tune. The throttle is very touchy for power delivery. I have know idea on the tune through I-quad as it doesn't tell me whats in there when I connect? I'd like to put a tune that's not so touchy and has a more linear pull. I think it would help the tq converter lock\unlock as it takes very little throttle input to maintain 55-60 mph.

 

I'm reading up on the Iquad stuff, I used to hptuners, motec and bigstuff for turbo gas stuff so it shouldn't take long to have a general understanding.

 

The bad news is I think my converter is shot, I also installed a lock up switch and I can drive through the converter fairly easy. You can feel it trying to hold on but she's toast I believe. 

 

Still getting the the voltage gauge drop to 8 after the trucks been running for a few minutes so I'm pretty sure the pcm is shot.

 

 

I would check your line pressures first before assuming. You may find that you can extend your trannies life a bit by raising it.

 

Here's the article I wrote for it.

 

 

[Puller810]

9 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

 

I would check your line pressures first before assuming. You may find that you can extend your trannies life a bit by raising it.

 

Here's the article I wrote for it.

 

 

Thanks, I'll probably check the tranny pressures in a couple weeks when time allows. 

I will do a fluid change and swap to Ford type F as the article says and see if that helps. 

 

Also on the the iquad gauges my tranny temp show 255-262 all the time. Will a bad trans temp sensor cause any of my issues?

[pepsi71ocean]

52 minutes ago, Puller810 said:

Thanks, I'll probably check the tranny pressures in a couple weeks when time allows. 

I will do a fluid change and swap to Ford type F as the article says and see if that helps. 

 

Also on the the iquad gauges my tranny temp show 255-262 all the time. Will a bad trans temp sensor cause any of my issues?

 

That's way to hot. My advice is to measure your line pressures first before you adjust things. If you measure and your line pressures low you should turn it up when you have the pan down on your fluid and filter change.  The gauge and lines can be had at home depot or Lowes. And should take you 30 mins from start to finish to get it figured out.

 

EDIT: While a bad sensor can cause that, I've always measured my oil at the output line from the transmission, not in the pan.

Edited December 8, 2018 by pepsi71ocean

[Puller810]

Little update, built a tune for the truck using some base settings from Quadzilla. Drivability is much nicer. The lock/unlock thing is still there however it's not near as bad so we've made some headway. Gonna try an apps relearn this weekend otherwise I'm not sure where to go from here. 

Fixed a bunch of little thingsfuel leak from the fp sensor (Teflon tape works wonders), new brake line that was too long so they had it wrapped around the axle tube lol,traded the bro wheels off for some 4th gen rims on 315's (drives way better), got rid of the stacks in favor of 4" all the way back, new headlights, new washer fluid tank (it didn't have one), all kinds of little stuff.