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So I heard the standard grinding screeching noise under a stopping yesterday.  Looked at the front brake pads and they are shot.  Went on RockAuto for a new set of pads and rotors.  I noticed a lot of different options.  Prices ranging from 25 each for rotors up to 250 for the top end.  Is there a substantial difference between the low end, mid grade and top end?  I don't pull heavy loads, just daily driving to work.  I'm of the school of thought that you get what you pay for.  I just hate to waste money if its not really any better.  I know the pads are substantially different depending on application but the rotors are my real question.  Whats everyone else running, recommend, certain things to stay away from?  Any certain combination that works better than others.  I live in Montana so we don't really have major corrosion issues.

 

Thanks

Bill

 

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I put these on mine about 70k miles back and they are holding up quite well. The rotors are holding good even with the ceramic pads. 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,138

 

Does not seem to link the part for some reason. I used the Durago BK70258166 with ceramic pads. For $77.79. Pretty much rolled the dice on them but have been pleasantly surprise. 

Edited by dripley
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20190306_100041.jpg

Just a month ago I pulled the caliper. 

 

I'm running the cheapest pads I could my hands on. I'm well over 200k miles on this set and still going. I've just replaced my rear rotors not too long ago not because of the rotor was bad but the top hat part for the parking brake. Grooved too bad for the parking shoes to grab the drum. Rotors where still in excellent condition. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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1 hour ago, dripley said:

E brake is a great thing. I loved mine until it died. Now its just a lump on a shelf. I will have another one day. It will extend brake life extraordinarly long.

 

If you do... Look at the PacBrake PRXB. That is the best exhaust you can most likely get your hands on. The standard PacBrake isn't bad but the PRXB has a second butterfly that hold back better down low RPM's giving better braking.

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58 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

If you do... Look at the PacBrake PRXB. That is the best exhaust you can most likely get your hands on. The standard PacBrake isn't bad but the PRXB has a second butterfly that hold back better down low RPM's giving better braking.

They have a $400 rebate untill 5-15. Sure makes it tempting.

Edited by dripley
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8 hours ago, Rotax3006 said:

E brake would be sweet but I don’t tow much, well that and I rather get a tuner next.  

 

I use to tow quite a bit be now it all highway empty miles back and forth to Ontario, OR. If you think that Exhaust brakes are for only towing your very much so mistaken. I use it for every stop I make. I foot doesn't touch the brake pedal till I'm down to about 20 to 25 MPH.

 

I've been flipped off for not having any brake lights. I assure you the brake lights are there and work I just don't use the brake pedal very much. I've even been pulled over by a cop once for not having any brake lights. :lmao::lmao2:

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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I have always been told brakes are cheap, transmissions are expensive so stay off the E brake unless you need it. Have you seen any reduction in transmission life as a result?  I’d like on someday if for nothing more than going down the logging road with a load of firewood.  Unfortunately I have to be selective with my wants right now. 

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2 hours ago, Rotax3006 said:

I have always been told brakes are cheap, transmissions are expensive so stay off the E brake unless you need it. Have you seen any reduction in transmission life as a result?

 

I can't speak for others, but I have 312,000 miles on the original six speed transmission with no repairs.  I replaced the clutch with an OEM clutch at 297,000 miles (failed pilot bearing).  I use the exhaust brake on my truck in the exact manner that @Mopar1973Man describes.

 

- John

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Just now, Tractorman said:

 

Did you find the cause of the 4th gear failure?  Just curious.

 

- John

It is still sitting on a dolly under my work bench. At the time parts were scarce and expensive and rebuilders questionable. I took a chance on the junkyard one with 52k on it. $2500 to my door. Turned out pretty good. As far as loosing 4th, it had been whining some and then while driving home one day I went to shift into 5th and it stuck in 4th. Had to pull off the road and man handle it out of gear. Never went back into 4th. All the other gears worked fine and the tranny made no funny noises but I parked it and found the replacement. All this happened around 250k.

 

So I guess to answer your question, No. 

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On 5/11/2019 at 1:39 PM, Rotax3006 said:

I have always been told brakes are cheap, transmissions are expensive so stay off the E brake unless you need it. Have you seen any reduction in transmission life as a result?

 

265k miles on the transmission before I broke the main shaft. Already at 114k miles on this transmission. As for the reduction in transmission life, I would say no. Huge reduction in brake wear, no impact on transmission or clutch. Exhaust brake has no wear factor. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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