Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch is odd (I fully intend to take the truck out get it to temp and c if i can get a video of the tube or at least pics and I'll try to get a pic of the fluid) and the other concern is my truck has been smokin like it has been modded with jus about every mod u can find the thing is all it has is a bhaf and a str8 piped exhaust the high idle mod shouldnt matter and I'm to cheap to have guages thats this winters project:lol: most of the time it is thick black to the point of clouding an intersection to the point of not being able to see a stoplight in my rearview and other times if I jump it real hard there be a white kinda blue hint thrown in ther is my turbo failing or is it something else and F.Y.I the air cleaner was removed then broke down an throughly cleaned it all the turbo inlet and air itake pipes appear to be clear and dry, the turbine spins freely and the axial end play is spec. any thoughts are greatly apprechiated and thanks much in advance

Hey,Kinda sounds like a head gasket is leaking on you. Has it been losing antifreeze and you can't find a leak?:shrug:Good-Luck,Winslow

well the thick black smoke is a overfuel condition, this can be contributed to a few things, clogged air cleaner, bad turbo, bad boost sensor, ecm problem, or compression issues in engine. the blow-by and residue is probably a result of the overfuel diesel getting down in the oil and thinning it out. with no gauges you will have to go old school, easy check on the turbo is to remove air cleaner at turbo grab the impeller wheel and see if it has any up/down travel or chipped fins. boost sensor dosent have to throw a code to be bad but you will have to have a scanner with live data to ck parameters or just replace, not that expensive. if you havent got to a source of the problem by now, you have to start checking expensive problems, and might want to see a shop. if you locate and fix the problem, change oil and the blow-by issue should clear up over a short time. good luck

Just got back from my drive it is idleing in the driveway atm and the blow by isnt as bad today as it was yesterday tho it is significantly cooler out today by about twenty degrees and thank you very much for the sugestions the turbo appears to be good I had the aire cleaner and all of its assembly off yesterday I checked end play and clearence and when I spun the turbine it spun freely with no weird noises and none of that grind that you can feel sometimes when a bearing is bad so the air cleaner is clear it is a bhaf from Vulcan thats less than a year old with an Outerwear the intake pipe and turbo inlet were clear of any moisture or oil I have not been loosing antifreeze either and my oil is always a a real dark gold with no foam so I kinda doubt a head gasket so that leaves us with a sensor unless a turbo could fail in some way I havent checkedAs always thanks much for ideas and thoughts

Being you don't have a box or programmer I'm going to say it going to be maybe a IAT sensor or MAP sensor problem... You might check for error codes and report back with any codes you get... The fact is your in stock form for the most part (as far I can tell from your sig). So that means you got something reporting a excessively cold signal.

:shrug:I will not rule it out completly but I would say that my blow by is a normal amount but I am still a bit concerned just because it can be worse on certain day it only dripped once while sitting 15 minutes at 210 at 75 degree ambient temp Im confused it almost seems to act like an electrical problem

--- Update to the previous post...

clear no codes returned crank position sensor was replaced last winter can u bench test the sensors you were talking about? would it help if I cleaned and inspected them?

Best way to bench test the sensors is with a live data tool like ScanGauge II or SnapOn tool. As for cleaning the only time you need to clean then if you own a exhaust brake. Stock trucks rarely get dirty...

Thanks much Moparman I've got a scantron thing but the pos doesnt do much of anything for live feeds so I'll take it down to Ervs and have him take his ten grand scanner and look at the live feeds for me thanks much as always I'll post results tomorow his shop is closed for the eavening

--- Update to the previous post...

IAT reporting flakey signal replaced this morning with little to no effect the Map sensor was readeing low as well as the IAT the IAT was outa spec before now there both good but still low according to Erv then asked me if I had a chip and I said no but the dealer said ther might have been one and I am yet to locate one with no luck so either there isnt one and something else is goofy or Erv is right in the fact that some one installed and "fooler type chip" that messes with ecm parameter to increase power I dont know anyone heard of this

If there was a fooler installed it would be intsalled or teed into the harness right at the sensor, so you would have noticed an extra connection other than factory harness on the map sensor.

We took it out on the road today with the scanner hooked up and determined that most likely my ecm is flakey or ther is a wiring problem because the MAP and the IAT are the only two goofed up Im debating throwing a new map sensor at it but I dont know if that will help and I dont quite understand live feeds but he was saying something about when I would step on the gas and create boost the map sensor volt reading should go up but instead it would go down first then sit then pop up other times it would work without issue and IAT cant make its mind up it cant stay in the same place for five seconds when its moving but it will kinda chill out and sit when the truck is sitting this computer thing is a bit past me any help is apprechiated Thanks much to those that have helped me to this point

IAT temp on average will float about +30*F to +40*F over outside temp... Unless you sitting and idling then it might be even higher yet... As for the MAP sensor that should respond instantly to boost...

computer SOL new used one out of a totaled truck made it work now the trucks back in commission tho I wonder is ther a way of rebuilding this computers or have it sent somewher tho have it done?

Here is a older thread that will help...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2109-ECM-Outlet?highlight=outlet

ECM Outlet

1-248-565-8308

http://www.ecmoutlet.com/dodge_ecm.html

computer SOL new used one out of a totaled truck made it work now the trucks back in commission tho I wonder is ther a way of rebuilding this computers or have it sent somewher tho have it done?

Yes there are ways of "rebuilding" or re manufacturing the computers. However most re manufactures of electronic equipment don't repair items at the component level anymore. It is time consuming and tedious to repair small surface mount electronics. They typically open the unit and chuck a new board in it. If your lucky you will find some electrolytic capacitors that lost their dielectric and are incapable of filtering or holding a charge any longer. Occasionally there are diodes that have broken down and flow electrons in both directions, or a simple power transistor that doesn't work appropriately. However I have never opened the Cummins/Dodge computers so I wouldn't even know if they used electrolytic capacitors, i'm sure they use the rest of the components but they are likely to be surface mount. When it comes to the integrated circuits and surface mount components often times datasheets are hard to find if not non-existent to anyone but the manufacture. I would say just get a new one with a warranty and remove the hassle of going through one dead computer after another, besides you get a warranty. Although these parts are rather expensive new.

Its not that big of a deal not really being able to rebuild it since its is working as it should atm my only concern was that there are so many different comps out there for our rigs that I wanted to get the right one and one that would agree with you when you put vehicle information into the scanner since some comps know the vin year engine and trans in your truck I was worried about putting a 2001 in there (which I did) that when I looked up vehicle info and live feeds it wouldnt be right but so far so good thanks a bunch for that tid bit of info always proves useful