T-Case pops out of 4hi

[YeaImDylan]

Hey all, thought I'd post this to get some opinions on what to look into replacing or adjusting...

 

So when I shift my truck into 4Hi, my dash 4wd light comes on but when I go and give it gas and start to drive, my shifter goes back into 2wd. I'm assuming this could be due to a worn transfer case linkage? Mine is currently in the same state as when I bought it from the P/O and its held together pretty janky.. has a zip tie or two on it.. lol the t-case shifter is also pretty damn loose but I do feel it "go" into 4hi in a way.. I also don't believe my front end is engaging. I held my hand on the shifter in 4hi and gave it gas and had a buddy check my tires in the front and they were spinning freely (in a bad traction environment). I'm assuming its due to old and cracked vacuum lines. Need opinions on this too, should I go with a 4x4 posi lok system to get rid of trying to chase down vacuum leaks?

[Silverwolf2691]

Do you have a body lift or anything like that? I know that causes issues sometimes.

 

So to be clear, your tcase shifter is sloppy but if you hold in it goes into gear.

 

Quick check is to put it in 4x4 with the truck off, then crawl under the truck and grab the front drive shaft and try to turn it.

 

If that is engaged, try turning while driving on dry pavement in 4x4, carefully please, if it hops and binds while trying to turn, everything is engaged.

 

As for the popping out, the gears, if they are worn, could push themselves out if the load changes drastically. There is also the possibility that your tcase is loose and is pushing itself out. 

[Mopar1973Man]

11 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

As for the popping out, the gears, if they are worn, could push themselves out if the load changes drastically. There is also the possibility that your tcase is loose and is pushing itself out.

 

Typically its shaft bearing as you apply load the shaft moves and the kicks the transfer case out of gear. Most common for bearings to get sloppy and the shaft moves.

[Dieselfuture]

Or a worn out fork or plastic pads, or if you ever grinded it it hard enough it could of damaged teef on the collar.

[YeaImDylan]

Hey all, sorry for the long time to reply!! Forgot I had posted this and then when I found the replies I've been busy since. I can't seem to get it to pop out again but haven't had too much time to go do all tests. I have a feeling the front end isn't engaging and the vacuum lines are old and rotted. Thinking of installing a posilok cable to eliminate that factor of why 4x4 doesn't work. I need to have a buddy move the shifter while I'm underneath so I can see if its even turning the level on the T-case enough to even engage it... The 4x4 light on the dash comes on but I'm not sure if that sensor is within the T-case or if it reads where the shifter is and says it's in 4hi. I can post a pic of how rigged and loose the linkage is if you all would like. I'm not sure I mentioned it but I had a guy checkout the truck and he thinks with the amount of play in the linkage it could significantly effect how much the shifter is actually moving the T-case part. I tried putting it in 4hi and doing tight turns ( I know what to look for due to my old chevy I had would do the grinding and all that when on asphalt in a tight turn in 4hi) and I didn't notice anything. I wish I knew if the vacuum lines were working and engaging the front so I'd know if it was just the T-case not fully engaging.

 

Edit: To answer one question, no body lifts. Truck is leveled with a spacer on the top of the front springs and stock height everywhere else. No Carolina squat or any of that **** lmfao

Edited August 30, 2021 by YeaImDylan

[Silverwolf2691]

If you have a CAD axle, which it seems is true, the 4x4 light is triggered by the axle shift fork. The large vacuum switch on the transfer case is for actuating the shift fork only.

 

How the non-CAD trucks are set up I don't know. Also, I don't remember if any 01s had the non-CAD as an option. 

 

Since the light is coming on, I am leaning toward your transfer case having the issues..

 

Do you know any history on the truck? Between the mileage and apparent zip tie infestation, you might need to rebuild the transfer case. I think you might be suffering from all three ailments we described. High mileage could wear out the shift fork pads, and the bearings. And if the previous owner(s) just abused the 4x4 in and out, it might have worn the synchro(s?) in there and its not able to get into gear. New rod bushings or a new rod might also help firm up the shifting confidence.

 

T-case rebuild is about $200 and takes about day to pull, tear down, rebuild, and reinstall.          

[Mopar1973Man]

22 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

T-case rebuild is about $200 and takes about day to pull, tear down, rebuild, and reinstall.

 

I'm curious where did you get your rebuild kit and how much? 

 

Not that I've got one to fix right now but curious for information value.

[Silverwolf2691]

https://www.jbconversions.com/products/np241/rebuild.php

 

the part is listed under np241c, so I don't know what is different if anything between the dodge and chevy. You would need a wide chain for the dhd as well.

my brother had good luck with their kit when he rebuilt his jeep tcase.

 

https://www.allstategear.com/NP241DHD-Transfer-Case-Bearing-Kit-p/bk241c.htm 

 

This is specifically for a dhd, and its cheaper, but you need a chain. I think that is a normal thing for the rebuild kits though. 

 

I haven't bought a kit yet, but Allstate gear was what got me down the rabbit hole of the input bearings are different between some of the tcases. Some have a single row input bearing and some have a dual row bearing. And they are not interchangeable unless you replace the input shaft with the correct one.

 

When I get to mine I'm interested to see what happened to the low range parts when I ground them back in October 2020 while sled pulling.

     

 I just looked at images for the linkage. I think theres an adjustment for the linkage attached to the rod.. Might have moved..

 

Most i think overlook this because its probably seized up with rust. And its not something that usually needs adjusting..

Edited August 31, 2021 by Silverwolf2691

[YeaImDylan]

How hard of a task is it to pull the t case and rebuild it? I’ve pulled an engine and tranny before in my old 86 chevy but was years ago. If it’s not a terrible task I may be up to it but I’d have to see if anyone near me is willing to take on that challenge with me since I do not have all of the tools required. Only have a craftsman ratchet set.

 

Also, what is the purpose of the vacuum lines on the t case? Regardless of my loose *** shifter, could those be not allowing it to shift into 4wd?

[Silverwolf2691]

Pulling the tcase is simpler than a motor. Drives shafts removed, unhook the linkage, remove the vacuum switch, 6 bolts and its out.. ratchet set should be enough but the switch needs a big socket or wrench, 1 inch plus i think.. Rebuilding it i think the only thing you need is a blind hole bearing puller. Should be able to rent it.

 

The vacuum lines are what controls the center axle disconnect. The thing they attach to is a vacuum switch on the tcase and a vacuum motor on the front axle. Also they are attached to the vacuum pump and a vent line. 

 

Depending on what is causing the issue, depends on what would be causing the symptoms you are experiencing.

 

No vacuum would cause the front actuator to not move and not light up the 4wd light. 

 

Tcase issues would cause lack of engagement..

[Dieselfuture]

 

 

[YeaImDylan]

heres a YouTube video of my linkage, initial part shows the condition it’s in lol and then I pan away to zoom in to the shifter on the t case.

[Silverwolf2691]

Im gonna say you need a rebuild.. if that was you moving the lever into and out of 4WD.

 

When i had to rebuild my front driveshaft a couple weeks ago it was not even close to that easy to move.

 

I wonder if either your rooster comb is worn out or if the 4x4 slider is worn out.