2001 Dodge 2500 Heat Exchanger Replacment

[Vinster_Beta]

My current Heat exchanger is a little crispy after the 20 years of service and a few years around some road salt. I've seen several listings on Heat exchangers varying in prices from ~$800 dollars to as low as ~$200 dollars and curious if anyone has found a difference between them or has had issues with the different options out there. Trying to save penny's where I can without risking the reliability of the truck.

Eventually I also do plan on adding an additional cooler in the loop but curious if size of the cooler will add (if such a thing) too much restriction. 

 

And lastly, currently I have my Trans Temp sensor located on the output of the trans, but I have read about people mounting it after the Heat Exchanger due to more stable/ accurate temp. I am curious on opinions on that. I tow a lot with it and trying to keep everything as happy as possible, eventually ordering a new valve body is on the list here in the next few weeks and hope to see temp improvements in that as well.

 

[IBMobile]

1 hour ago, Vinster_Beta said:

I have my Trans Temp sensor located on the output of the trans,

That's where my temp sensor is located also. This location informs me how hard the transmission is working before cooling/heating influences the readings.

 

As for which heat exchanger to buy, I haven't had any experience with replacing mine, but others here have and will give quality info on the subject.

[LorenS]

1 hour ago, Vinster_Beta said:

I am curious on opinions on that.

I figured this opinion counts for far more than anything I've got to say on the matter. It's the third question down.

 

https://goerend.com/goerend-frequently-asked-questions

[VMac822]

Vinster I just switched my truck to manual and will sell you mine for cheap like $50 if you pay shipping.  It's not rusty since my truck has always been in a mild climate.

Edited August 30, 2022 by VMac822

[IBMobile]

@Vinster_Beta, Get the pipes to the cooler too.

[Vinster_Beta]

5 hours ago, VMac822 said:

Vinster I just switched my truck to manual and will sell you mine for cheap like $50 if you pay shipping.  It's not rusty since my truck has always been in a mild climate.

Only issue I'm worried about is the internals mainly, I'm trying to prevent internally failing. No leaks yet but I'm all about preventative maintenance.  I'll keep ya in mind and may refer back to ya.

 

Eventually when I get the time and money set aside I'll plan on swapping to a manual. Just don't have either ATM.

 

5 hours ago, IBMobile said:

@Vinster_Beta, Get the pipes to the cooler too.

I plan on switching all the coolant lines, and all transmission lines on the system. I think I saw a kit on PDD site. I'll just have to buy additional fittings to add trans temp sensor, but I think on something about the 97's attempt sensor was external on their kits and it gives you the T-port option out of the hot side so I may be in luck. I'll have to look back or I'll probably end up call them and asking for additional fittings. I've already got to get more line if I plan on putting auxiliary cooler in the loop. So when I call I'll see if they can hook me up with the additional fittings I need for that as well.

 

 

 

I do appreciate everybody's input, that's why I like this site so much it's very helpful when it comes to figure it out and deciding stuff on these trucks. Lots of helpful / knowledgeable folks 

Edited August 30, 2022 by Vinster_Beta
Yes

[Hutch24v]

I installed a Mishimoto trans cooler which is pretty rugged on my truck. These are something like $299 online. So far no complaints with its operation. Also have a PPE deeper trans pan (provided as part of the Stage 2, 47re build by Dynamic Trans). I measure temp with a sensor port in the pan and I've never seen readings above the 170s at full operating temp and while towing. 

[2000Ram2500]

Ive actually been curious as to how one would delete the heat exchanger altogether

 

Im not recommending this to anyone simply saying that i really messed up my cooler lines a while back and found barb fittings and half inch hose went right to the cooler and back and sawed the exchanger lines short and out of the way. I eventually added a cooler in front of the condenser because i then understood how hot coolant can help regulate fluid temperatures.

 

But it looks like all you would need to do is find a big pipe plug for one of the block offs and then there was one other piece that looks like it wouldnt be difficult to change in order to just remove that thing all around. You'd definitely need to add in a substantial cooler because the heat exchanger is a really powerful part of keeping the fluid temp down when it wants to climb 

[LorenS]

One thing I like about the stock cooler is that it helps warm the trans fluid in winter. It's one big reason I used my block heater more than many others do. I only lived about a mile from the interstate, so getting things up to temp quickly was important to me. When I plugged in, my transmission temp came up much faster than when I didn't (sensor in pan).

[Vinster_Beta]

I definitely am planning on keeping exchanger with the wide spread area I drive and travel to. Eventually I am planning on replacing the stock radiator with a mishimoto replacement, and tandem a secondary with an electric fan to complete the system. (Just had to change out the coolant radiator.) 

 

Main thinking I was hoping was somebody replaced theirs and if they experimented with the cheaper ones I keep seeing popping up. Don't know if it's one of those things they all come from the same Chinese family or if there is an actual difference. 

[Mopar1973Man]

On 9/4/2022 at 7:07 PM, Vinster_Beta said:

and tandem a secondary with an electric fan to complete the system.

 

You might want to look at the ISSPro EV2 Trans Temp gauge for the fan controller. You can get the USB program cable and program the optional relay for a set temperature to turn on the fan and then set your warning light even higher. I thought if I ever install a ISSPro in like Minnie the 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan I would set the fan for 170*F and then warning light for 200*F. This way the fan comes on when needed and not on a toggle switch or keyed hot lead. This allows for quick warm up of the transmission and still protects for working load temperatures. 

 

  

 

Edited September 20, 2022 by Mopar1973Man