Upgrades

[kbf98520]

Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive .  A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit.
It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function 

[Mopar1973Man]

Vacuum?

 

Now that I owned...

 

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 46RE

2002 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 5 Speed

2006 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins 6 Speed

 

I can say loses to spinning hardware are minimal. Being 2002 Dodge is a solid axle and spins constantly and still can reach 30 MPG. My 1996 Dodge had a CAD axle and barely got 14 MPG and nothing spins. As for the 2006 Dodge it can reach 15 to 16 MPG but it 2,500 pounds over weight with a flat bed and huge winch bumper which I'm removing and putting a factory bumpers and bed back on and going to get a CR truck to 30 MPG again with a solid axle.

Edited October 6 by Mopar1973Man

[Sycostang67]

Vacuum would be my first thought as well.  Did you do anything with the vacuum lines on the axle?   I thought about a free spin kit but as I get older, I enjoy not having to get out and lock hubs.  I did get the posi lock a few years ago but have yet to install it.  I got it when I was having intermittent vacuum issues.  I replaced the under hood vacuum lines and haven’t had any issues since. 

[kbf98520]

15 hours ago, Sycostang67 said:

Vacuum would be my first thought as well.  Did you do anything with the vacuum lines on the axle?   I thought about a free spin kit but as I get older, I enjoy not having to get out and lock hubs.  I did get the posi lock a few years ago but have yet to install it.  I got it when I was having intermittent vacuum issues.  I replaced the under hood vacuum lines and haven’t had any issues since. 

I’m pretty sure that’s what it is . Haven’t had time to look at it yet everywhere I look is a project and pickup has slid back down priority list. 😂. I haven’t done any thing with vacuum lines on axle in fact I don’t even really understand what the do as the 4wheel drive manually engages….

Posi lock? I know not

Thanks

[Mopar1973Man]

Or just have the solid axle like Beast and not worry.

[kbf98520]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Or just have the solid axle like Beast and not worry.

Beast came with the solid axle?

[Mopar1973Man]

30 minutes ago, kbf98520 said:

Beast came with the solid axle?

 

Yes sir no CAD axle here... With all my tuning like dropping from 265's (31.7") to 245's (30.5") tires, then adding the Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner and understanding how to properly build tunes that are highly efficient. Then watch my temperatures of everything because anything creating a large amount of heat is loss of power and efficiency. This is why I never bother with free spin hubs because no one to this day has beaten me in efficiency numbers like MPG. My current high mark is 30 MPG and crossing the entire state of Washington on just a 1/4 of a tank of fuel from Seattle WA to Idaho border outside Lewiston ID. 

 

Just keep in mind every 1 pound of rotational mass you remove is like removing 8 pounds off the frame. Like on my tires just dropping from 265's to 245's was about 20 pounds per tire off which 800 pounds off the frame. This is why racing slicks are barely 20 to 30 pounds per tire also remember smooth tread face is more efficient than offroad mud tires. 

 

Then with a 5 speed NV4500 transmission with a dual disc clutch I've got no slip in the transmission which 47RE are more prone to slip. Proper use of gearing and throttle goes way better than "Babying The Truck". 

• Optimal RPM is 1,800 to 2,700 RPM. Anything below this is considered lugging the engine. 
• Optimal Boost pressure is ZERO! Yes, this is correct if you are properly tuned then you should be able to cruise at highway speeds (55 to 65 MPH) without any boost pressure.
• Optimal coolant temperature and Engine Oil Temperature is hotter than most think. I'm now running 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins with engine oil temperatures following at 170℉.

So the whole free spin axle set up is going to net you a very, very small gain that is barely noticed. Where they mods I've done makes the truck efficient. 

[Sycostang67]

The posi lock is a cable system that replaces the vacuum portion of the cad setup on your axle.  To engage the axle disconnect you pull a knob that physically activates it instead of relying on the vacuum diaphragm.   There is also a version that just permanently connects the axle halves which is what I would probably use if I had a free spin kit.   
 

Regarding the vacuum topic though, if you didn’t mess with the vacuum lines on your axle you may just have a leak somewhere else in the system.  My cruise control behaving the way yours is clued me into my leak.  I got a new vacuum harness from Rock auto which fixed my problem.  You can also find it on Amazon.  Mopar part number  55056421AA. 

[kbf98520]

2 hours ago, Sycostang67 said:

The posi lock is a cable system that replaces the vacuum portion of the cad setup on your axle.  To engage the axle disconnect you pull a knob that physically activates it instead of relying on the vacuum diaphragm.   There is also a version that just permanently connects the axle halves which is what I would probably use if I had a free spin kit.   
 

Regarding the vacuum topic though, if you didn’t mess with the vacuum lines on your axle you may just have a leak somewhere else in the system.  My cruise control behaving the way yours is clued me into my leak.  I got a new vacuum harness from Rock auto which fixed my problem.  You can also find it on Amazon.  Mopar part number  55056421AA. 

Can you tell me more about the permanent set up to eliminate the CAD please?

[Sycostang67]

It’s at LMC truck, runs about $80. 

[kbf98520]

On 10/10/2024 at 1:10 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes sir no CAD axle here... With all my tuning like dropping from 265's (31.7") to 245's (30.5") tires, then adding the Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner and understanding how to properly build tunes that are highly efficient. Then watch my temperatures of everything because anything creating a large amount of heat is loss of power and efficiency. This is why I never bother with free spin hubs because no one to this day has beaten me in efficiency numbers like MPG. My current high mark is 30 MPG and crossing the entire state of Washington on just a 1/4 of a tank of fuel from Seattle WA to Idaho border outside Lewiston ID. 

 

Just keep in mind every 1 pound of rotational mass you remove is like removing 8 pounds off the frame. Like on my tires just dropping from 265's to 245's was about 20 pounds per tire off which 800 pounds off the frame. This is why racing slicks are barely 20 to 30 pounds per tire also remember smooth tread face is more efficient than offroad mud tires. 

 

Then with a 5 speed NV4500 transmission with a dual disc clutch I've got no slip in the transmission which 47RE are more prone to slip. Proper use of gearing and throttle goes way better than "Babying The Truck". 

• Optimal RPM is 1,800 to 2,700 RPM. Anything below this is considered lugging the engine. 
• Optimal Boost pressure is ZERO! Yes, this is correct if you are properly tuned then you should be able to cruise at highway speeds (55 to 65 MPH) without any boost pressure.
• Optimal coolant temperature and Engine Oil Temperature is hotter than most think. I'm now running 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins with engine oil temperatures following at 170℉.

So the whole free spin axle set up is going to net you a very, very small gain that is barely noticed. Where they mods I've done makes the truck efficient. 

5 u joints, three shafts, unserviceable wheel bearings, differential and transfer case spinning all the time needlessly was my main concern. Increasing efficiency was secondary.

That being said, I like the idea of a hotter thermostat. I run diesel engines for a living and have alway understood that they are more efficient when ran a little hotter.

A little bit at a time. I have a few more upgrades planned then I’ll be looking to bump up horsepower. Turbo, injectors, tuner

😁