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Duwammer

High Idle

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

OK.......... I have a Superchip Programmer, it came with the truck. I put the truck back in stock mode and had the high idle turned on at the dealer it worked fine while in stock mode. I put the tuner back on the truck and the high idle didn't work. Figuring that the tuner screwed something up and already paying $90 for the dealer I just gave up on the high idle.Fast forward to this winter. I decide to just go and have the dealer re turn the high idle on. I make an appointment for this morning and head to the dealer.The service manager comes back and gets me to show me the "flash" has already been done. I tell him yea I know it has, I had it done here. I also tell him that the High idle isn't working.The mechanic says he thinks that he can just flash it again and see if that works, but the service manager over rules him and says NO it may screw something up by re flashing it again and not to do it. He's not sure why it isn't working if the flash is already on the truck.I finally tell him look, you're the Dodge Dealer if you can't tell me why it's not working or what you're going to do to fix it just give me my keys and I'm outta here.

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Wild and Free    1,100
Wild and Free

Take the super chip programmer and throw it as far into the weeds as possible never to be found again, they are junk and have always caused more problems than can be mentioned as you have just found out. The only way to fix this is to do a complete dealer reprogram/reflash of the engine ecm to get rid of all the traces that super chip programmers leave behind. They always leave behind problem causing bugs with their programmers. Sorry but you will need to go back to the dealer and part with more cash and tell them to do an ecm reprogram and explain that it had a programmer on it that left behind bad traces. They should do it for you no questions asked, don't just get a high idle flash though get it completely reprogrammed. Doesn't take any longer to do. Throw the programmer away and don't let anyone else get hold of it as the problems will just be passed along to some one else.

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

Well,I just made another appointment for the truck, this time to get a complete ecm reprogram. I called a different dealer and explained what had happened and he understood completely and knew exactly what needed to be done without hesitation.Both dealers are almost the same distance from my house. The good thing about the 1st one was it was on the way home. Hopefully now I'll get it straightened out.The only better news was he's only charging $40 instead of the normal $90

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

OK, I took the truck to the dealer with my TSB for the high idle flash yesterday. Explained that I had already had the high idle flashed and that it had previously worked. That I had used a “Superchip Programmer” on the truck and now the high idle no longer works and I think the programmer left bad traces on the ECM. I asked them to do a complete ECM reprogramming with the high idle TSB included. The service advisor explains that you cannot “reprogram” the ECM you can only update it with the newest update that Dodge has available. He explains that they had “recall” on certain Dodge truck and when the ECM was updated it made it so that when backing up the truck with the door open the horn blew until the door was closed. People hated it and wanted it turned off. Unfortunately he says you cannot just take the part of the update out that you don’t like. That you cannot just go back to what you originally had on the ECM and you’re stuck with the newest update until a newer one comes out. You can never go backwards on the ECM that you can only go forward when programming, updating, flashing the ECM. So unless Dodge had a newer update for my truck he could do nothing for me and until he “hooked” up to the truck he wouldn’t know if a newer update was available. I told him for $40 hook up to it and see what he could do. The mechanic comes out 10 minutes later and tells me that the truck has the latest update already on it but the high idle flash was “not enabled” and he merely enabled it “turned it on”. They only charged me $20 It’s only 27 degrees here in Michigan today and the truck didn’t high idle for me so I guess I’m going to have to wait until it’s a little colder before getting overly excited about the whole ordeal and calling it a success.

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Mopar1973Man    3,659
Mopar1973Man

I was going to say that's the 3rd Gen door open horn honkin' update... 2nd gens don't have such... :duh: As for high idle your going to need a morning around 20-25*F to get it to hit... Even mine with grid heater running can pull the IAT above 38*F on a 21*F morning so it will never hit.

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Calltrex    0
Calltrex

I was going to say that's the 3rd Gen door open horn honkin' update...

Whats that about? mine does that once in a while.. if my trucks running and i get out it will start honking and ____

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Wild and Free    1,100
Wild and Free

I guess I meant to say reflash instead of reprogram the ecm but I have seen several local rigs that just went into the dealer for a reflash and all was well again but it was for other issues in how the engine ran after the superchip programmer was taken off. Didn't matter if it has the latest update they just need to do another reflash.

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Mopar1973Man    3,659
Mopar1973Man

Whats that about? mine does that once in a while.. if my trucks running and i get out it will start honking and ____

There was a TSB for the 3rd gen where Automatic where slipping out of park and into Reverse. It was designed to warn the driver so horn starts honking. As for being able to disable this you can't... There is no updates to disable this feature and will remain permanently...

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Sounds like you had quite the adventure!! As for the high idle, it won't kick until it is even colder outside unless you have a fooler system to allow you to have full control of the high idle. Let me know if I can help you out.:thumb1:

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

Ok, It's cold enough here in Michigan, it's currently 12* for the high idle to kick in and still nothing. Is it possible that when I went to the Dealer last week that they didn't enable the high idle properly.Or do I need to go back to the Dealer because of some other issue. :banghead:

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Ok, It's cold enough here in Michigan, it's currently 12* for the high idle to kick in and still nothing. Is it possible that when I went to the Dealer last week that they didn't enable the high idle properly. Or do I need to go back to the Dealer because of some other issue. :banghead:

They may have not have turned it on... that's been known to happen....:doh:

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

OK, I’m totally confused now. I had decided to call the Dealer today and see about taking my truck back for them to make sure that the high Idle had indeed been turned on properly. The wife called me last night to tell me that when leaving her friends house she went out to get in the truck and the high Idle was working. I had her leave the truck outside last night. When I got home this morning I tried it again it was 8* outside. Once again nothing it wouldn’t high Idle again. I don’t get it. At least now I know that it is enabled (turned on) properly from the Dealer. So now I’m wondering if the truck will not high Idle properly on its own now……. how in the heck would the high Idle "fooler" make it work. I hope that I’m not beating you guys to death on this.

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Mopar1973Man    3,659
Mopar1973Man

Ok... You got to remember the high idle onlly starts if the IAT temperature is below 32*F. So when you turn your key on and sitting there looking at the :wts: light the grid heaters are heating up to a nice 500*F or more. So when you fire up the truck now this heat is draw into the manifold area and heating the IAT sensor rapidly. So now even thoug it 8*F outside now the grid heater continue to go on and off heating the manifold. Which maybe still holding the IAT temps up for quite a while. So if you leave it idle for more than 5-10 minutes the ECM should time out the grid heaters and then the manifold temp should start to drop and engage the high idle software. As for the high fooler mod that forces the ECM to see either 26*F (6 cyl) or 13*F (3 cyl) and forces it to engage now. Not after the grid heaters have run there game. The whole trick is about getting the ECM to see these temp for a extended time right away so high idle is started sooner. So warm up starts sooner...

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Ok... You got to remember the high idle onlly starts if the IAT temperature is below 32*F. So when you turn your key on and sitting there looking at the :wts: light the grid heaters are heating up to a nice 500*F or more. So when you fire up the truck now this heat is draw into the manifold area and heating the IAT sensor rapidly. So now even thoug it 8*F outside now the grid heater continue to go on and off heating the manifold. Which maybe still holding the IAT temps up for quite a while. So if you leave it idle for more than 5-10 minutes the ECM should time out the grid heaters and then the manifold temp should start to drop and engage the high idle software. As for the high fooler mod that forces the ECM to see either 26*F (6 cyl) or 13*F (3 cyl) and forces it to engage now. Not after the grid heaters have run there game. The whole trick is about getting the ECM to see these temp for a extended time right away so high idle is started sooner. So warm up starts sooner...

Exactly!:thumb1:

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

Well, when the high Idle was "first" enabled by the dealer it seemed like it came on with in a couple of minutes.Now, the "second" time high Idle was enabled by the dealer I've let the truck run 5 to 10 minutes (remote start) and manual start before leaving work and nothing. This is why I figured that the high Idle wasn't possibly "turned on" properly by the dealer.I guess I'm going to decide about putting a "fooler" on it I think.My next question is, with the "fooler" can you leave the switches on after shutting the truck down and use a remote starter and have the high Idle kick in when started. Or do you need to start the truck first then turn the "fooler" switches on.Thanks again guys

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Well, when the high Idle was "first" enabled by the dealer it seemed like it came on with in a couple of minutes. Now, the "second" time high Idle was enabled by the dealer I've let the truck run 5 to 10 minutes (remote start) and manual start before leaving work and nothing. This is why I figured that the high Idle wasn't possibly "turned on" properly by the dealer. I guess I'm going to decide about putting a "fooler" on it I think. My next question is, with the "fooler" can you leave the switches on after shutting the truck down and use a remote starter and have the high Idle kick in when started. Or do you need to start the truck first then turn the "fooler" switches on. Thanks again guys

You can leave the switches ON if you want to so in the morning you could use your remote start. Then when you go out to leave flip them OFF and down the road you go.:thumb1:

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Wild and Free    1,100
Wild and Free

You sure you don't have a bad brake pedal switch, if it sees a signal from a brake pedal switch it will kick out the high idle or will not let it engage. possibly neutral park switch also but it then shouldn't start, I am wondering if the remote start has been wired in correctly, I have seen remote start systems cause all sorts of issues on occasion.

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Mopar1973Man    3,659
Mopar1973Man

You sure you don't have a bad brake pedal switch, if it sees a signal from a brake pedal switch it will kick out the high idle or will not let it engage. possibly neutral park switch also but it then shouldn't start, I am wondering if the remote start has been wired in correctly, I have seen remote start systems cause all sorts of issues on occasion.

Thanks for the reminder that one tends to escape me at times... But W&F is right double check everything that can be cancelling the high idle from starting...

Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs: 1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or, 2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or, 3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or, 4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or, 5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

I've had them too where the TPS will send a slight signal and cause high idle not to work as well. The other thing is to make sure the gear shift is in park, I've had that problem as well. It will be in Park but just not enough for the computer to think that it is.:thumb1:

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dobienut    11
dobienut

Ah, just go ahead and buy the fooler from Prowelder and try it. If it still doesn't work your still digging for the issue, but eventually you'll get it figured out and your going to end up geting the fooler anyway. :lol: I love mine :drool:

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Ah, just go ahead and buy the fooler from Prowelder and try it. If it still doesn't work your still digging for the issue, but eventually you'll get it figured out and your going to end up geting the fooler anyway. :lol: I love mine :drool:

They are extremely useful to have!:hyper:

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Duwammer    0
Duwammer

Well, I ran up to the local station (2 mi) to fill the truck up last night. It was 23* I left the truck running and it high Idled while I was filling it up. It was nice to have a warmer ride home.Not sure about the brake switch, but I did check the NAPA site and it's only $11 if I need to change it out.I'm pretty sure all other conditions are being met.I'm going to monitor the auto starter / manual starting of the truck and see if it differs. This is the 3rd starter I've had put on by the same place, but the first diesel so it's possible that's a problem. But they are very knowledgeable and have been in business for many many years.Now that I know the high Idle is enabled for sure I just need to talk the wife into a "fooler" I'm telling her it would be sooooo much better when she's driving it when it's cold outside.

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Well, I ran up to the local station (2 mi) to fill the truck up last night. It was 23* I left the truck running and it high Idled while I was filling it up. It was nice to have a warmer ride home. Not sure about the brake switch, but I did check the NAPA site and it's only $11 if I need to change it out. I'm pretty sure all other conditions are being met. I'm going to monitor the auto starter / manual starting of the truck and see if it differs. This is the 3rd starter I've had put on by the same place, but the first diesel so it's possible that's a problem. But they are very knowledgeable and have been in business for many many years. Now that I know the high Idle is enabled for sure I just need to talk the wife into a "fooler" I'm telling her it would be sooooo much better when she's driving it when it's cold outside.

Just tell the wife that you would be helping yourself, her, and an American college student's business!!!!:lol: But in all seriousness, it sounds like it is okay, I'm just wondering why it isn't kicking when you start it up in the driveway... Wonder if it has something to do with that remote start. You might try going out and starting it the old fashion way and see what it does.:shrug:

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