Electrical Gremlins

[Green Piece]

Okay, so as far as I can tell this fiasco started with my cab lights. What happend is I was using my power seat fuse to tap into for pwr. I had my neg terminal disconnected but sometime during the event it made contact without me knowing:doh:. While i was hiding the pwr wire under the dash it grounded and blew a few fuses. My pwr mirrors, door locks, interior light, pwr seat, and speed cntrl on wipers (low and high still work), ODB II port (cant clear codes), and high beam indicator:banghead:. The fuses it blew in the cab were:#1 15A park lamp#4 10A pwr amp#5 5A illum#12 10A IOD#13 10A pwr lock#14 10 A cluster B The fuses in the PDC was the 40A trailer (grn) fuse. So after replacing all of the dead fuses they are all still not getting pwr from the PDC (or where ever it comes from) the hot side of the fuses are all dead. All of the fuses and relays in the PDC are good and passing pwr. The #6 25A wiper is still good but again the the intermitant speed/delay does not function just low and high. I have pulled the codes from the odometer and they read as follows: PCU: 0622 Altenator field not switching properly, p0122 TPS low voltage, p1687 No cluster bus message, p1765 Trans 12v supply relay cnt cir. ECU: p0236 MAP Sensor too high too long, p0237 MAP Sensor Voltage too low, p0382 Intake Air heat relay #2 cntl cir. I reset the APPS and I am no longer getting the p0122 code but the rest are still prevalent. Your thoughts are welcome, I have no idea where to start for sure thinking it is something between the fuse box and the PDC. PLEASE HELP, and sorry for the long post.

[flagmanruss]

Is there a main fuse for this in the box under the hood?

[Green Piece]

All of the ones I found were in the PDC behind the battery and they are all good. I dont know of any others.This is my first time diving into anything electrical other than changing fuses. So I am at a loss and up the creek, you all are the only paddle I have.

[Wild and Free]

Did you have the dash panel "gauge cluster" pulled back? If so make sure the connector is fully connected into the back side of it. I have had the no cluster bus before and it was due to the connector behind the dash coming loose while rooting around behind it.

[Mopar1973Man]

Green piece I know you need the wiring diagram... So here is a upgrade to your account so you can download the 2002 wiring diagram which should help you trace out whats going on...

[Green Piece]

Did you have the dash panel "gauge cluster" pulled back? If so make sure the connector is fully connected into the back side of it. I have had the no cluster bus before and it was due to the connector behind the dash coming loose while rooting around behind it.

Nope wasn't behind there at all just running the wire and some zip ties but no where near any of the guages.

--- Update to the previous post...

Green piece I know you need the wiring diagram... So here is a upgrade to your account so you can download the 2002 wiring diagram which should help you trace out whats going on...

Thank you much Mr. Mike, I do need a diagram now its just if I can make heads or tails of it..... I do appreciate it. I think if I can get my scan guage working with the ODB port and clear some codes out I will have a better idea what I am dealing with. Thanks again.

--- Update to the previous post...

Okay, so I looked over the wiring diagram Mike so graciously provided. It was a little like listening to charlie browns teacher though...wa waa wa waa wa wa. I could kinda of follow it but could someone describe the J/C on the left side of the dash panel for me. Is it the white junction box under the dash to the left of the brake pedal (AT) or is it talking about the fuse box its self. Also can anyone tell me what wire is the pwr supply wire for the ODB II port. :shrug:Thanks a bunch guys for the replies.

[Mopar1973Man]

J/C = Joint Connector Joint connector is a point that all wire come together like a main splice. But wired up like a large plug. Fuse #12 in the cab is the fuse for the OBDII port.

[flagmanruss]

I just paid an obcene amount to the diesel shop... my truck shut off in the middle of the street for what turned out to be an electrical fault. They cleaned the battery terminals & all the ring connectors & the disconnects nearest the batteries. The connections really showed no outward sign of corrosion. They said the "clean power" circuit grounds on the passengers battery but get power from the driver's side. If the cross connectors are not perfect, the ECM can go out from low voltage. Who'd a thunk?

[Green Piece]

I checked the voltage across the circuits in the PDC they were in the range of 12.2 on the cable connections in the front and all the fuses and relays were above 12V. The altenator was also above 12 or right at. I don't know if that implies clean or not but I am not sure how to check for the resistance. I think I am going to have to remove the fuse panel from the mount and get a good look at the wires seems there must be a short there causing this cluster to not get pwr being it all happened right after that short:ahhh:. Or if there is a fuseable link somewhere back there. One of my buddies whos a electrical engineer is going to try and help me make heads and tails of those wiring diagrams so hopefully that will help out. On a side note; would it be possible to jump a 10A fused link to the back of the ODBII port to check and see if it would pwr up. tell me if its just the power wire or others in that cluster. I would have to figure out which of the wires on the back of the plug is supposed to supply the pwr. Thanks again gentleman

[Mopar1973Man]

As for check resistance... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm This method works any where with any wire, connectors, etc.. You could jump a power source to the proper pin but make sure you hook up to the right pin... Or POOF!

[Green Piece]

Well I got some good news today....My 125HP Injector nozzles pop tested in spec. Maybe my day will improve..

--- Update to the previous post...

AAAHHHH!!!! This SUCKS. Note to self always make sure the darn negative battery cables are off. What a kick in the:nadkick:.

[Mopar1973Man]

AAAHHHH!!!! This SUCKS. Note to self always make sure the darn negative battery cables are off. What a kick in the:nadkick:.

What happened???

[Green Piece]

What happened???

I spent all afternoon checking all the wires and grounds between the fuse box and the J/C (which is an ungodly nightmare) everything appears to be okay there, no burnt wires gounds tested 0's. Pulled the entire dash apart, litterally, and for the life of me I cant find where the 20A circuit is for fuse 1 40A from the PDC. I maybe I am just not reading it correctly. That is the only thing I can think of that needs to be reset/replaced as that fuse feeds all of my troubled one except #5 the way I am reading it. The battery cable comment was referring to what started this whole mess to begin with. Argh!

refrence Cummins wiring diagram page 2 about half way down. PDC Fuse 1.

--- Update to the previous post...

Progress for the day...used a fused link with the appropriate fuse for each of the circuits which were dead and found that all the functions on the south side of the fuse box works fuse box is not fried . Got the scan guage working so I could clear the codes took it for a drive and no codes came back.....yet and hopefully wont, super . I also hooked the cab lights up the right way and put them on the switch like I should have the first time, by the way for those reading and don't know the park lamp is the tan/peach colored wire at the bottom left on the back of the lamp switch. Last but not least, intalled my injectors and they are great , no leaks, putting the fuel lines back on was a bit of a pain with the two upper close to the eng block but thanks to you fine gentleman I had a handy crows foot and a snubby box wrench.

So I think I have the wiring problem narrowed down to the blk/red wire somewhere between the PDC and the JC but any of you happen to know if would be blk with red tracer or red w blk tracer? Thanks again for the help!

[Mopar1973Man]

Well its a step in right direction...

[Green Piece]

Well its a step in right direction...

Mr. Mike....on the wiring diagram, on the pwr distribution....uhh 2nd page there is the blk/red wire which feeds all of my bad fuses. Am I looking at that right and is it going to be blk with red tracer or other way around. Any thoughts?

[SWATPARAMEDIC]

Not sure if this helps or if you'd tried it or not but there is another fuse box with some relays behind the driver side battery. There is a 130 alternator fuse and some others. Might check in there for anything blown. I shorted across the alternator post trying to tighten something up and replaced the alternator because it tested bad before I realized that fuse was there and had blown.

[Mopar1973Man]

Mr. Mike....on the wiring diagram, on the pwr distribution....uhh 2nd page there is the blk/red wire which feeds all of my bad fuses. Am I looking at that right and is it going to be blk with red tracer or other way around. Any thoughts?

The only thing I found is Red/Black (Red wire with black tracer) comes from fuse #1 goes to the in cab fuse panel and takes care a few odd thing like the under the hood light, central timer, overhead computer, etc...