Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
    • Reduced Advertisements displayed to you.

Sign in to follow this  
dripley

fuel leaks at cylinder head

Recommended Posts

I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok... When you installed the injectors did you tighten the connector tube first or the injector cap first? I found out that you should tighten the connector tube before the injector cap this always the injector to move into alignment to help seal the lines. So if it was me I would consider doing that it might help...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine have never sealed up right and reliably :(Looking forward to any other ideas presented here. I've only had injection lines off, tubes have never been out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok... When you installed the injectors did you tighten the connector tube first or the injector cap first? I found out that you should tighten the connector tube before the injector cap this always the injector to move into alignment to help seal the lines. So if it was me I would consider doing that it might help...

Well no. I tightened the injector cap first and then the injector tubes(cross over or connector tube)second. I can redo them. Should I replace the orings and is there any chance I would need to replace the copper sealing washers? I only want to do this twice:lol:.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't need to actually remove the injectors but you'll need to wiggle the parts a bit so when you tighten again it will actually seal up. Dave from over at RamForum.com was the once that got me on the phone with the injecotr company and I listen to there conversation about leaking fuel lines. As I posted above was his suggestion and it seen to fix his problem as far as I know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everytime I pull injectors I get a leak from #1 and sometimes #2. I tighten them beyond what you think and drive it for a few miles, then go back and loosen them and re-tighten them but not so tight and it quits leaking. I also have new o-rings on all of mine and a new tube in #1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually torqued 3, 4, and 5 the other week with a crows foot and torque wrench and was suprised at how much more they turned. In the past I just used a wrench and tightened them by feel with no leaks. We sill see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i had this issue last year, a few things:did you put the orings on dry or lubed? they should be dry, mine were dry and i have no issues.did you use scotchbrite pads on the mating surfaces of the injector lines? i did this and there was a bunch of corrosion and crap on them, this will help seat the lines to the tubes. Also use the scotchbrite on the injector tube tips, just to get corrosion off. the pads are "abrasive" but not to metal. these are the green pads in packs of 3.I didnt touch the injectors so i cant say anything about that but like mike said there is a sequence to reinstalling them, seeing that the tube needs to align to the injector and not the other way around, do like he said and you should be good.You might want to check the banjo bolt on the back of the head for leakage as well. this is where most of mine was coming from and did the same coating as you mentioned.good luck mang!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahh... I had the same issues but got crazier... :wow: I got out the 1,200 grit and a pencil and tuned the connector tube to fit the lines. I had 3 line that when in bad shape and cleaned them up really well and carefully. A small scratch or pit in the connector tube or the high pressure line could cause what you taking about. I got to admit it takes a lot of patience with the 1,200 grit but you turn out a very smooth and tight seal fitting. Like I said take your time and do it right.As for the cause of the funk is from wahing the engine and letting it sit to air dry. If you wash the engine and drive it dry you less likely to have that issue. I had to learn this myself...:duh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



×