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fuel leaks at cylinder head


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I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

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  • Owner

Ok... When you installed the injectors did you tighten the connector tube first or the injector cap first? I found out that you should tighten the connector tube before the injector cap this always the injector to move into alignment to help seal the lines. So if it was me I would consider doing that it might help...

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Ok... When you installed the injectors did you tighten the connector tube first or the injector cap first? I found out that you should tighten the connector tube before the injector cap this always the injector to move into alignment to help seal the lines. So if it was me I would consider doing that it might help...

Well no. I tightened the injector cap first and then the injector tubes(cross over or connector tube)second. I can redo them. Should I replace the orings and is there any chance I would need to replace the copper sealing washers? I only want to do this twice:lol:.
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  • Owner

Don't need to actually remove the injectors but you'll need to wiggle the parts a bit so when you tighten again it will actually seal up. Dave from over at RamForum.com was the once that got me on the phone with the injecotr company and I listen to there conversation about leaking fuel lines. As I posted above was his suggestion and it seen to fix his problem as far as I know.

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I actually torqued 3, 4, and 5 the other week with a crows foot and torque wrench and was suprised at how much more they turned. In the past I just used a wrench and tightened them by feel with no leaks. We sill see what happens.

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i had this issue last year, a few things:did you put the orings on dry or lubed? they should be dry, mine were dry and i have no issues.did you use scotchbrite pads on the mating surfaces of the injector lines? i did this and there was a bunch of corrosion and crap on them, this will help seat the lines to the tubes. Also use the scotchbrite on the injector tube tips, just to get corrosion off. the pads are "abrasive" but not to metal. these are the green pads in packs of 3.I didnt touch the injectors so i cant say anything about that but like mike said there is a sequence to reinstalling them, seeing that the tube needs to align to the injector and not the other way around, do like he said and you should be good.You might want to check the banjo bolt on the back of the head for leakage as well. this is where most of mine was coming from and did the same coating as you mentioned.good luck mang!

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  • Owner

Ahh... I had the same issues but got crazier... :wow: I got out the 1,200 grit and a pencil and tuned the connector tube to fit the lines. I had 3 line that when in bad shape and cleaned them up really well and carefully. A small scratch or pit in the connector tube or the high pressure line could cause what you taking about. I got to admit it takes a lot of patience with the 1,200 grit but you turn out a very smooth and tight seal fitting. Like I said take your time and do it right.As for the cause of the funk is from wahing the engine and letting it sit to air dry. If you wash the engine and drive it dry you less likely to have that issue. I had to learn this myself...:duh:

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