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Early shifting and surging??

nkruse
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nkruse

nkruse

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Hi guys. I have a couple questions on what is going on with my truck. I noticed I am shifting too early where the RPM's are low and it surges or jerks until the RPM's get higher. It is shifting into 4th gear with OD off at 25mph and it happens also about 45mph where its shifting into high gear and doing the same thing with OD on. Tonight I was doing a couple road tests and I got on it alittle more than usual and when I got home because of how it was acting, I used my scangauge and I had a p0234 code. So I have been doing alittle reading about the wastegate etc which I do not understand and wonder how the code is related to what is going on with my truck. Is it something else with these symptoms??? The only thing I have done different recently is have an Airdog 100 installed and hooked my Quadzilla XZT up a month ago. Any suggestions or answers are appreciated!!

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JLandry

JLandry

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Regarding the transmission shifting issue...Try replacing the transmission output shaft speed sensor located in the tail housing and see if that fixes it. It's an inexpensive part available at most any auto parts store and literally takes 5 minutes to remove and reinstall.Regards,John L.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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As for the P0234 the wastegate is rusted shut and no longer functional. It will require you to remove the turbo and then remove the wastegate motor shaft and work the wastegate free with PB Blaster or simular. As for the shift problem I'm not certain on that... :shrug: I do our a automatic truck but its 46RE in the 96 Dodge and I've never worked on a Auto before... As for that truck I've had it 10 years now and never had a shifting issue yet... :shrug:

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nkruse

nkruse

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As for the P0234 the wastegate is rusted shut and no longer functional. It will require you to remove the turbo and then remove the wastegate motor shaft and work the wastegate free with PB Blaster or simular. As for the shift problem I'm not certain on that... :shrug: I do our a automatic truck but its 46RE in the 96 Dodge and I've never worked on a Auto before... As for that truck I've had it 10 years now and never had a shifting issue yet... :shrug:

I think the transmission question is probably something simple. Probably related to the Quadzilla or that sensor someone else mentioned. Who knows! Is there a thread on explaining what to do for rusted wastegate or some pictures? Not sure if its in the turbo or where it is? Thanks!
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nkruse

nkruse

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Here you go... Good ol' ISX to the rescue...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JXCO49H0Vk

Thank you for that video. I will pull the turbo and see what is up. So if that opens freely it is okay and if its rusted shut and wont open then you replace the turbo or what? Thanks!
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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If its rusted shut try freeing it with a light tapping from a small hammer and PB blaster... If you damage it trying then replace it. But either way you got nothing to lose... I would atempt to free it...But I give you something to think about the only way for that wastegate to rust shut is too much light driving. You might consider hitching up a trailer now and then and working the truck hard. That would build some good heavy boost enough to move the arm on a regular basis. I tend to do the same thing being conservative all wek long light driving and light boost. But about once a week I'll take the truck out warm it up and flog the hell out of it. Better yet when get the tags for the trailer soon I'll just hitch it up and haul it around for 10 miles. :whistle:

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retired01

retired01

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Hi I just went through all the same things as you, I also have the Quad xzt+, On the quadzilla website you can download some stuff to your module for free that actually gets rid of the surging, and if that doesnt work then you should check out BD diesel, they have an APPS noise isolator (only for automatics) that takes 10 seconds to install, it has to do with the tranny computer picking up some frequencies and making the tranny shift funny. I hope that helps you or anyone else for that matter.

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nkruse

nkruse

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Hi I just went through all the same things as you, I also have the Quad xzt+, On the quadzilla website you can download some stuff to your module for free that actually gets rid of the surging, and if that doesnt work then you should check out BD diesel, they have an APPS noise isolator (only for automatics) that takes 10 seconds to install, it has to do with the tranny computer picking up some frequencies and making the tranny shift funny. I hope that helps you or anyone else for that matter.

Sweet! I thought someone would be able to answer that question. Thank you for your response. Do you happen to know what the file I can download to help that is called? Thanks again.
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nkruse

nkruse

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Try this one, I just talked to Jeremy from Quadzilla and he said that should work. good luck. XZT+_1000 http://www.quadzillapower.com/products/index.cfm/p/XZT-Dodge-Trucks-USB-Updates

Thank you! Found that one last night but having problems installing it! The new hardware box won't pop up and try updating drivers cuz it was setup with windows xp adn I have windows 7 and it just won't work. Talked to three techs from Quadzilla and nothing! Still trying though, thanks for the help!
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nkruse

nkruse

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stacked shifts under light load could be a TV cable out of adjustment, or the VSS on the tail shaft of the tyranny is culprit. but if you wake up and your truck won't leave 1st gear then we know what the problem is.

Sorry but what do the initials stand for? TV I thought was maybe throttle cable but VSS? Thanks!
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nkruse

nkruse

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Yes TV is throttle valve cable. AKA kickdown cable. VSS is vehicle speed sensor.

Gotcha, thank you! I will have to look up the adjustment for the throttle cable and look into the speed sensor as well. I ordered the noise isolator and we will see what that does for start. Thanks!
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Gotcha, thank you! I will have to look up the adjustment for the throttle cable and look into the speed sensor as well. I ordered the noise isolator and we will see what that does for start. Thanks!

:doh: If you need a noise filter then you got a alternator / ground issues... Remember most of these truck ran for 10 years now without this stuff and now it needs a filter... Something has failed. Don't cover it up with filter, extra ground or wiring mods... :smart:
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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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Gotcha, thank you! I will have to look up the adjustment for the throttle cable and look into the speed sensor as well. I ordered the noise isolator and we will see what that does for start. Thanks!

with a built transmisison your TV cable should be about 1:1 at WOT, so a stock trans will have about 3/16's inch of play, rather a fully built one like my DTT is tight when your at WOT. The noise isolator is crap, i wouldn't waste my time with it. All a noise isolator does is cancel out the RF noise coming from the alternator, ide best to load test the alternator then the batteries....Otherwise your PCM and ECM will also fail when the RF gets bad enough to cause them to go nuts as well.:smart:
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nkruse

nkruse

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:doh:

If you need a noise filter then you got a alternator / ground issues... Remember most of these truck ran for 10 years now without this stuff and now it needs a filter... Something has failed. Don't cover it up with filter, extra ground or wiring mods... :smart:

I understand the truck 10 years ago didn't need anything. When the truck was mostly stock when I bought it, it didn't need anything either but people do suggest everyday lift pumps, air intake, gauges, etc. Maybe this is another defect? haha. kinda being sarcastic. It didn't do it till I added the airdog and quadzilla.

Thanks guys!

--- Update to the previous post...

Yes the filters just mask another problem. Only thing is connectors should be checked as corrision can start and become an issue.

Here some TV adjustments pages:

http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/TV Cable Adjustment v1.0.pdf

http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Dodge_Ram_Truck_Transmission_Adjustment.pdf

Thank you, appreciate the help!!

--- Update to the previous post...

with a built transmisison your TV cable should be about 1:1 at WOT, so a stock trans will have about 3/16's inch of play, rather a fully built one like my DTT is tight when your at WOT.

The noise isolator is crap, i wouldn't waste my time with it. All a noise isolator does is cancel out the RF noise coming from the alternator, ide best to load test the alternator then the batteries....Otherwise your PCM and ECM will also fail when the RF gets bad enough to cause them to go nuts as well.:smart:

Wow! I need rosetta stone for that comment! haha. Just kidding but it is alittle on the past my understanding. I am going to change the batteries for sure and I will have to load test the alternator also just to make sure. Thank you!
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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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Wow! I need rosetta stone for that comment! haha. Just kidding but it is alittle on the past my understanding. I am going to change the batteries for sure and I will have to load test the alternator also just to make sure. Thank you!

the skinny is that the alternator makes electricity, as the brushes wear out the electricity becomes "dirty" by emitting RF noise(similar to static on the radio). As the RF noise increases then other electrical components start to become affected, the first is the TC lock up mainly because you can feel it, the other components will over time degrade as the RF noise starts to wreek havoc on them. I have had two trucks with the Tc/lock up issue that were as a result of a worn alternator, somewhere between 130,000-200,000 miles is when they start to go, and this of course depends alot on idle time.
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