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I bet it's gotta be frustrating. I've put an ad out on Craigslist a few times looking to do a swap with a manual trans truck just for the heck of it. I've had a few bites but nothing I was willing to seal the deal on. They were either really high mileage units, the one guy lost 2 gears and needed a clutch. It would be different if my trans needed work or even if it was stock I may have considered it, but I've got a solid unit and not willing to trade for something that I have to sink money into. It might be worth a shot for you to try though, it can't hurt. Especially if you advertise for an RH trans.

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Well Rick, I hate to say it, but you may want to look into parting out what you have and replacing it with another truck.......:banghead::banghead:

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  • 5 weeks later...

so, yeah, this is still on-going.. I haven't done much with it lately, however. 245/75-16s, 4.10:1 gears, In OD/Lockup: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5987&d=1375187051 Who else has 4.10s, and roughly same size tires with the 47re? What are you guys turning at this speed, rpm-wise? I'm really thinking it's in the OD section of the trans, now.. If I manually shift, it's a positive engagement and almost no slippage if I manually change 1-2-3 at 1800 or more.

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I got a couple gauges (0-100, 0-300) and a couple 1/8" NPT fitting, and tested the pressures per the chart above. I never heard back from Suncoast yet (go figure) on their specs.

So here they are:

Rear Servo:

Reverse - Idle/WOT = 130psi/300+psi

Front Servo:

Reverse - Idle/WOT = 0psi/0psi (PROBLEM!)

Accumulator:

L - Idle/WOT = 80-90psi/145psi

2 - Idle/WOT = 95psi/142psi

1st - Idle/WOT = 100psi/140psi

2nd - Idle/WOT = 100psi/145psi

3rd - Idle/WOT = 90psi/142psi

4th - Idle/WOT = 92psi/170psi

OD Clutch:

4th - Idle/WOT = 90-100psi/150-155psi

Governor:

This one was weird, and not anywhere like I was expecting. I understood it to be 1psi per mph (ex. 20mph = 20psi, 30mph = 30psi, etc.) It was NOTHING like that, nor was it linear..

Best I can tell is this:

10mph = 12psi

20mph = 40psi

25mph = 55-60psi

30mph = 70psi

When it went into 4th + Lockup, it jumped +30psi, and pegged my 100psi gauge..

Now, if I only knew where to go from here LOL

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I got a couple gauges (0-100, 0-300) and a couple 1/8" NPT fitting, and tested the pressures per the chart above. I never heard back from Suncoast yet (go figure) on their specs.

So here they are:

Rear Servo:

Reverse - Idle/WOT = 130psi/300+psi

Front Servo:

Reverse - Idle/WOT = 0psi/0psi (PROBLEM!)

Accumulator:

L - Idle/WOT = 80-90psi/145psi

2 - Idle/WOT = 95psi/142psi

1st - Idle/WOT = 100psi/140psi

2nd - Idle/WOT = 100psi/145psi

3rd - Idle/WOT = 90psi/142psi

4th - Idle/WOT = 92psi/170psi

OD Clutch:

4th - Idle/WOT = 90-100psi/150-155psi

Governor:

This one was weird, and not anywhere like I was expecting. I understood it to be 1psi per mph (ex. 20mph = 20psi, 30mph = 30psi, etc.) It was NOTHING like that, nor was it linear..

Best I can tell is this:

10mph = 12psi

20mph = 40psi

25mph = 55-60psi

30mph = 70psi

When it went into 4th + Lockup, it jumped +30psi, and pegged my 100psi gauge..

Now, if I only knew where to go from here LOL

When I checked the pressures on mine they were actually higher than that. With 4th locked up I was getting approximately 170 psi. The only one I didn't check was the front servo in reverse but if I'm thinking correctly through the powerflow of these transmissions the front servo doesn't have anything to do with reverse so 0 psi would be correct. I'm trying to find my service manual now to double check but not having much luck remebering where I placed it.

Found my manual, there is no fluid in the front servo when in reverse and no pressure specification listed for the front servo. However the rear servo minimum is 145-175 psi with a max of 230-280 psi.

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So I took a couple videos of the trans issues, and forwarded them to Ernie @ Suncoast. He reviewed them, but his pc has no sound, so he couldn't hear it.

He called me last evening and wants me to drop the VB out of the trans and verify it is a Suncoast unit. If it is, he's going to send me some springs and some instructions on what he wants me to mod/change on the VB, rather than have the downtime of shipping it back/forth to FL. Which is cool..Posted Image

As for the TC, that'll be a bird of a different color... Posted Image

This first video is 2 starts.. 1st is non-narrated.

This one is a manually shifted take off with demonstration of the TC "flash" at speed..

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Ya, it's because nobody can believe he is still putting up with this. :doh:

Can't afford NOT to.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 EDIT: So, I pulled the valve body out of the trans for the 2nd time in 4 days. I've been working with Ernie @ Suncoast Trans (Lead Dodge Tech for 20+ yrs) We found out that it is NOT a Suncoast VB (which sucks). But, Ernie has probably spent at minimum 8 hrs on the phone with me, over the course of 3 days, trying to help me troubleshoot/fix this trans. Let me add that he's doing this out of kindness and pure customer service. He could just as easily tell me to buy a new one or bug off, and I'd understand. But to go out of his way and help me work through a problem is totally awesome. We also determined that the nimrod that built the trans and VB (East Coast Diesel, no longer in business), was a moron. He put 2 valves in backward, and ground the wrong spots, drilled wrong holes, etc.. I'll hopefully have pictures up, maybe this evening.
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Valve body is back in. I've made some mods (per Ernie's direction) to also include a lockup in 1st and 2nd while I had it apart.

I test drove it. Technically, I should be able to start the truck, put it in gear, and flip the toggle to stall the truck when the TCC engages. Well, the only thing that happens is the RPMs drop about 50-75rpm. Turn the toggle off, and they raise back up 50-75rpm.

So now I'm wondering if the 3disc billet converter is fubar'd. I know the VB has circuitry that controls the TC engagement, via fluid path, but there's no real way I know of to test whether or not the valve is truly closing off all fluid flow to the TC, or whether the TC clutches aren't fully releasing, or whatever..

Some images:

Dismantled Valve Body:

Posted Image

trans pan after about 8000 mi. Fairly clean

Posted Image

Billet Accumulator piston:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/k1tv.jpg/

Borg Warner GPS and Pressure Sensor:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/esym.jpg/

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, this weekend, the trans, VB (again) and TC come out. TC gets shipped to Suncoast for diagnostics..

Posted Image

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This just made me laugh. Sorry, not at you, I just know you got to feel like a elephant with his head in the sand. Just struck me as funny. Stay away from guns and sharp objects. :smart:

No worries; it was meant to make someone laugh. Keeps us sane. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
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Valve body is back in. I've made some mods (per Ernie's direction) to also include a lockup in 1st and 2nd while I had it apart.

I test drove it. Technically, I should be able to start the truck, put it in gear, and flip the toggle to stall the truck when the TCC engages. Well, the only thing that happens is the RPMs drop about 50-75rpm. Turn the toggle off, and they raise back up 50-75rpm.

So now I'm wondering if the 3disc billet converter is fubar'd. I know the VB has circuitry that controls the TC engagement, via fluid path, but there's no real way I know of to test whether or not the valve is truly closing off all fluid flow to the TC, or whether the TC clutches aren't fully releasing, or whatever..

Some images:

Dismantled Valve Body:

Posted Image

trans pan after about 8000 mi. Fairly clean

Posted Image

Billet Accumulator piston:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/k1tv.jpg/

Borg Warner GPS and Pressure Sensor:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/esym.jpg/

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, this weekend, the trans, VB (again) and TC come out. TC gets shipped to Suncoast for diagnostics..

Posted Image

Feel like sharing the mods for 1st&2nd lockup? I'd be interested in doing this and testing mine to see if it stalls or the rpms just drop a little like yours did.

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