"built" 47RE woes

[JOHNFAK]

Well, I broke down this morning and took it to a transmission shop to get a diagnostics test ran on the trans. I'll let you know what the result(s) is/are, as soon as I hear back.

Ill almost guarantee they will say its leaking and needs a rebuild. Curious what the diagnosis is and what the estimate $$ is Try calling Frank at Revmax and have a chat with him. Same with Goerand. good luck

[Rogan]

DON'T SAY THAT!!!

[Baconbitsforu]

Lol

[JOHNFAK]

DON'T SAY THAT!!!

So What was the diagnosis ??

Any updates ??

[Rogan]

Diags was that the pcm was programmed with an unknown vin. So a complete test could not be done. Preliminary testing did point to the transducer though.

So here I go...

From the Galaxy S3

[JOHNFAK]

Diags was that the pcm was programmed with an unknown vin. So a complete test could not be done. Preliminary testing did point to the transducer though. So here I go...

Nice. Keep us posted. How much was the diag ??

[Rogan]

Diags were $30. Parts are in. I took s few videos of the process as I went through it. The only issue I had was removing the sensor it had a clip that I did not see. I keep getting the output shaft speed sensor error but I've replaced it so I don't know what the problem is. He said when he ran diagnostics he could see the output shaft speed sensor work all the time. So whatever is causing that code must be intermittent.

Mental note: remember and I repeat remember to replace the transmission pan magnet when you clean it. I had to drop the pan a second time to put the magnet back in because my stupid brain forgot.

Here, you can see how much bigger the heavy duty solenoid is versus the stock oe unit. The pressure sensors are identical.

From the Galaxy S3

[Rogan]

Ok I've been road testing it and checking/filling fluid level of trans. So far so good (other than the OSS code P0720), and it took right at 7 qts .Wish me luck. Now I need a clock spring for the srs/cc to work.. and kinda need the srs light to go out for state inspection pass.From the Galaxy S3

[Rogan]

update:trans still going strong!

[MnTom]

Something to check on the OSS is the plug on it. If it has an intermittent connection it will act up. Mine has been a PITA and needs to be replaced. The plug is available separately and is not difficult to replace. Generally when that speed sensor does not have a connection the computer wants to downshift or not upshift at all. FYI the computer on your truck looks at the TPS and the speed sensor to determine what gear to put the trans in.

[Rogan]

Something to check on the OSS is the plug on it. If it has an intermittent connection it will act up. Mine has been a PITA and needs to be replaced. The plug is available separately and is not difficult to replace. Generally when that speed sensor does not have a connection the computer wants to downshift or not upshift at all. FYI the computer on your truck looks at the TPS and the speed sensor to determine what gear to put the trans in.

Tom, do you have a scan guage 2? if so, what is your TPS reading at closed throttle (rest)

[MnTom]

I don't have a scan gauge. What I did on mine was just rotate the TPS as far counter clock wise (or was it clockwise?) as I could to raise the voltage as high as I could so the shift points were higher. Mine goes into O/D at about 47 MPH at light throttle and my daughter's truck goes into O/D at about 40 with the same throttle.

[Rogan]

Update:

So, I towed all weekend..

This morning, before work, I went out to disconnect the trailer.

Walking out into the street, I noticed this trail of big drops of fluid down the street.. Following them visually, they went straight into my driveway (where I was backed in, yesterday) to a big puddly wet spot.. I then looked under the truck on the street and BAM! Big puddle.. Went to unhook the trailer and noticed the front of the trailer, the tongue, chains, and back of the truck were all covered in trans fluid (initial inspection.)

I made a couple trips/deliveries, one being 118mi round trip.

Sunday morning, I checked the hitch, chains, etc., before setting off and all was dry/dusty.

So something happened over the course of yesterday, in making a second 118mi round trip and a couple short local ones..

I'll have to get under there and clean everything off so I can see where it's coming from...

:banghead:

- - - Updated - - -

UPDATE:

found the leak...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4506&d=1348536821

However, I can't seem to stop the leak. I've removed the fitting, checked it and the pipe. I don't see or feel any burrs or anything.. I reinstalled the line and tightened the hell out of it.. Still leaks..

So, tomorrow, I'm gonna have to bypass this block-mounted cooler..

Anyone (with an auto trans) ever bypass the block-mounted cooler and only run a front-mount trans cooler? Suggestions on doing so?

[JOHNFAK]

Thread on CF somewhere for doing it. Only downside I remember is if it's really cold as its an exchanger to help warm the tranny fluid

[Rogan]

well, we dip in to the single digits sometimes in winter, but not often. I'll cross that bridge when I get there, I suppose. ;)Amazing how hard it is to find 1/2" transmission hose... I used a piece of heater hose in the interim, until i find trans hose that big. Hopefully by the weekend. Otherwise, the truck was inoperable, as the leak was that bad!

[Rogan]

Apparently, by-passing the block-mounted heat exchanger was a bad idea.. Trans temps skyrocket at low speeds and especially sitting at stoplights.A 2 minute stoplight wait will cause the temps to go from 180*F to 210-230*F rapidly.The front-mount trans cooler is a Hayden tube & fin style and is apparently very inefficient. I mounted a 10" fan on it, and it doesn't seem to help. I just don't think the tube & fin style cooler exchanges heat well enough.I bought a new Hayden 11"x11.5" HD trans cooler (supposedly 33% more efficient) but I can't seem to find a pace to fit it. There's a round 'boss' on the driver's side of the intercooler tank that sticks out about 1-1.25" that restricts a front-mount placement. I'd rather not mount it in front of the AC condenser if I can at all get away with it.Ideas?

[CSM]

I have a low stall converter in my ATS trans, and if I am sitting at a long light I slip it into neutral to keep the temps happy.

[Rogan]

Mine, too, is low-stall. Slipping it into Neutral doesn't seem to help, as the pump is still engaged in neutral. Park stops the pump, at least from what I can tell. It can sit forever, idling in park, and the temps hardly move. Put it in neutral, or gear, and sit.. Different story..

[CSM]

Mine, too, is low-stall. Slipping it into Neutral doesn't seem to help, as the pump is still engaged in neutral. Park stops the pump, at least from what I can tell. It can sit forever, idling in park, and the temps hardly move. Put it in neutral, or gear, and sit.. Different story..

Yeah, mine will act similarly at idle. However (not an expert) but I believe the converter is creating most of the heat, and I can hear the trans lug the engine a bit in R,D21. but not in P or N. However, if I put it in neutral, and rev it, bringing air over the trans cooler with the fan, I will see a slow ticking drop in temp. Usually a couple degrees a minute or so... Not much, but some. I've often wondered what a separate radiator cooler with an electric fan on a thermostat would do for me. ATS did say that the valve body was modified so it would retain full flow even in park and neutral, by circulating the fluid through the converter like when driving.

[Rogan]

Yeah.. all I know is I need to figure this issue out sooner than later