U joints

[diesel4life]

I believe the 3rd gens have the plastic or nylon you have to melt to get the universal out but Ive never seen that on a 2nd gen. Should just be c clips on the inside of the ears that lock the universal to the driveshaft.pop them off wiith a flat tipped screwdriver and a hammer and you should be good to go

[dripley]

I mean the clips in the head of the ball joint ... Think they have plastic inside ..Not the bolted u frame that's holds it to the axle shaft ...

oops!! I have taken them out on other ujoints with a screw driver or maybe something else, but id ont remember them being very difficult. I am also assuming you meant the ujoints and not the ball joints.

[JOHNFAK]

ok any tips on how to get the 5/8th (~16mm) bolts out from the front driveshaft attached to transfer case without dropping the crossmember - its a tight fit in there even with a stubby wrench and then no leverage ....

[rancherman]

any tips ?? Quoteyes I do! I've used the shop vise/socket/mandrel-of-whatever-is-handy-at-time, hammer..... And the occasional press over the years.. No matter what method, make dang sure the cross is started squarely in cup before pressing cup into yoke... then slide the cross out of first cup a little to engage second cup as you start pressing on second cup ( but not far enough to have needles fall out of position on first cup).And, no matter what method I use, I always 'center' the cross: Invariably, the yoke ears will be pressured, in or out, and there will be tension on the cross. (tight) Take a hammer, and (while holding the shaft in your hand, NOT installed on the truck or in a vise) smartly smack the weld area of the yoke.. one or two whacks under each 'ear' will release and center the cross. DON'T STRIKE THE TUBE! Just above the weld and below where the ear is is your target areaI use a 1 1/2 pound hammer with a tapered head to minimize strike area.Don't need to 'wind up' like a major league pitcher, just a good ol 'ping' or 2 will do. If after 2 or three strikes, it doesn't 'free up'.. it's on the other side of center. Just go to the opposite ear you just whacked and give that one 1 strike.Why do I want em 'free'? Snug means heat.Heat and grease don't mix. And too soon they won't be snug at all! (NOT the way we want things to progress!)I thought there was a spot you could rotate the front shaft and with a couple of extensions, you could get to those flange bolts.. I used my son to hold the nut, and with several extensions.. found a spot where a breaker bar/ratchet worked.

[diesel4life]

Patience young skywalker, and let the force be with you. they are tricky to get at, but if you spin the driveshaft just right you can get one at a time. Keep turning the driveshaft until you see the best possible place to get in there and do each bolt in that position. Its been a long time since i had mine out but i seem to remember using a socket/swivel/extension combo

[JOHNFAK]

Ok kinda put this on back burner. Found I had to use a wobble extension to get front driveshaft off - PITA

Bought a battery powered impact wrench and like is so much easier with the ball joint press.

So I started pulling the joints out and then realized I didn't mark which side was connected to make sure all goes back on same - is this a big deal for front driveshaft ? If so how to tell ? Pic below

I will definately mark the rear when I start ... Just wanted to get the process down on the front shaft before truck is down for rear

Pic

Thx

[Mopar1973Man]

Well your suppose to mark it before taking it apart but since its apart now I would say go with it and assemble again. But mark the remaining ones.As a matter of fact I just replaced the other end just a couple a days ago about 15 minute job. Now as for getting the bolts out of the transfer case is easy. 16mm socket and do the top bolt. Spin do it again. Nearly impossible to do the bottom one.I just bought a new grease gun needle, hose and coupler. Mine is looking a bit wore out and the new joint has needle zurts...

[diesel4life]

Probably not as big a deal with the front but always a good idea to scribe a mark before you drop any driveshaft. While youve got that universal apart, are you rebuilding the double cardan joint? I had to rebuild the one on my truck at 68k miles was more from lack of use than abuse the 4wheel drive was almost never used by the original owner and the truck sat quit a bit too boot.

[tsmithnw]

Hey if your feeling like fixing u joints. Do I have a deal for you i blow my front drive line apart Sunday your more then welcome to come do mine also. I found out to much power and being really stuck equal broke front drive line. That why they sell chains I guess.

[JOHNFAK]

Probably not as big a deal with the front but always a good idea to scribe a mark before you drop any driveshaft. While youve got that universal apart, are you rebuilding the double cardan joint? I had to rebuild the one on my truck at 68k miles was more from lack of use than abuse the 4wheel drive was almost never used by the original owner and the truck sat quit a bit too boot.

Cardamom joint - didn't know it was rebuild able as such fill me in

[JOHNFAK]

Hey if your feeling like fixing u joints. Do I have a deal for you i blow my front drive line apart Sunday your more then welcome to come do mine also. I found out to much power and being really stuck equal broke front drive line. That why they sell chains I guess.

That sucks

[tsmithnw]

That sucks

Yeah it really sucks because it is horrible putting u joints in that front drive line. Where the two are right next to each other. That's compared to doing the rear drive line. Teach me to us spicer u joint in the front next time. I am running them in my rear and haven't had any issue. I was concerned not having them be greasable. But they are still in one piece so far.

[Mopar1973Man]

Every oil change I attempt to grease my front shaft up good. I sure don't want to change those two again...

[JOHNFAK]

Gave up on front shaft can't work out how to get joints out in one of the flnges will drive it to shop for bench work and install myself Started on rear - see video - all looks ok .... So not sure where squeal and vibration comming from Thoughts ? video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY822zrIrG4

[JOHNFAK]

Found it .... Feels smooth as theres not much left is why ...

[JOHNFAK]

Now have hit same issue as front shaft - grrrr Have pressed it as far as it will go but can't get end caps off which means can't get ujoint out Very tight even with vice grip pliers won't slip/pull off

[tsmithnw]

I would replace the carrier bearing while you have it all apart. I had to do it because of bad vibration and some nasty noises. That is if you haven't done it in a while. I took me couple time of taking the drive line out before it dawned on my to replace it.

[JOHNFAK]

I would replace the carrier bearing while you have it all apart. I had to do it because of bad vibration and some nasty noises. That is if you haven't done it in a while. I took me couple time of taking the drive line out before it dawned on my to replace it.

thanks i didnt as the bearing looked good and I think you need a proper press to get the beaing on and off ended up using a grinder and the balljoint press and it was still hard - but maanged to get them done and trucks is "smooth" again. Will take the front assembly to a shop and have them cut them out and press them in. Good learning experience my end - TOOLS are the biggest thing here - no way a BFH would have worked Grinder , imact wrench - really need a 350ft pound or above - I only have 250ft .... ball joint press

[diesel4life]

John do you have cut off wheels for your grinder? That is what i do right from the get go i will cut the old u joint just inside the ears. Once the center of the u joint is out, you only have to press one cup out at a time. At that point i can do it with just a vice i dont even need a press.