Bleeding two fuel lines?

[02cumminsdude]

I just got out there tonight after work. I pulled the #4 and 5 nuts, reset them and I am now just getting slow weep from the #5 injector. It's getting dark out in the street so I stopped and left it at that for now. You guys think I should replace the o-ring at #5? What exactly does that require? Like i said it was getting dark and I only had a flashlight between my neck and shoulder as I was working so I couldn't really see too much detail.

[02cumminsdude]

I took at look at my Haynes manual. They say pulling the connector tube requires removing the whole bank of fuel lines, is this true? Also, I remember reading a thread somewhere about the o-rings and someone said you can actually purchase an o-ring from the hardware store that will fit for cheap... I did a little searching and couldn't find the thread but does that sound right? I will be off work tomorrow and I want to see if I can knock this thing out without ordering o-rings and having to wait for them... any tips are appreciated, thanks.

[98whitelightnin]

Check your local cummins shops, they arent cheap but they are the correct o-rings. You do not have to remove the lines, just move them out of the way.

[jlwelding]

Yea I have heard the samething, here's the thing, if your luck is anything like mine and you really only want to do this one time, get the right ones for a few extra bucks. Besides how are you going to know if the orings they hand you will hold up to the heat?When you go to pull the crossover tube make sure you mark the crossover tube with a scribe or something so you can get it close to the same as it was when you go back with it.Somepeople will say it dont mater but the tip of the crossover tube is a softer metal than the inj.it is seating against to make a seal tight fit. Just my worth.You dont have to pull all the lines off, you should be able to take the hold down bolt out that holds the line. Just dont take the blue clamps off leave those alone.

[02cumminsdude]

Well I guess tomorrow I will break out the scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner and try re-torquing the nut one last time before I order o-rings and go pulling out injector tubes. I'd hate to remove it only to find that o-ring is perfectly fine and all I managed to do was break a perfectly good seal to the injector. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

Well I guess tomorrow I will break out the scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner and try re-torquing the nut one last time before I order o-rings and go pulling out injector tubes. I'd hate to remove it only to find that o-ring is perfectly fine and all I managed to do was break a perfectly good seal to the injector. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

they may "appear" fine but in fact they to get worn from thermal re-molding along with compression and lose their ability to press against the walls of the tube and housing. the 2 that were leaking on mine looked fine but i replaced all 6 and had zero issues. dont go cheap on these and replace them all, if one or two are weeping the rest will follow in time. and remember put them in dry.

[02cumminsdude]

they may "appear" fine but in fact they to get worn from thermal re-molding along with compression and lose their ability to press against the walls of the tube and housing. the 2 that were leaking on mine looked fine but i replaced all 6 and had zero issues. dont go cheap on these and replace them all, if one or two are weeping the rest will follow in time.

and remember put them in dry.

All I need to do at this point is just stop the leak. I will be replacing injectors with some rv275's and that's when I will do all new o-rings, tubes, the whole deal. I just really don't have the money to upgrade everything right now "just to upgrade". I mean, if something broke and I had HAD to replace it, I could put it on credit or something, but I like to save the money for the whole job before I spend it. Plus I will only have to tear it all apart once and done.

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No luck. In fact, I made the leak worse. I don't know if running the truck with a weeping injector can cause any damage, but I'm going to let it sit for a while, buy all the parts I need on credit and just take it to my shop to have the job done, injectors and all... I wish I could do the job myself, but I just don't see it happening. Starting to get cold and dark early and I just don't have the motivation to work out in the street anymore. I'm not sure how much my shop will charge to do the job, but I know they will do it right for me. Thanks for all the help though guys, I wish I had better news to report back.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

a weeping injection line wont hurt, just makes a mess. and i understand the money thing... took a year to do everything i had to on my rig...

[Mopar1973Man]

a weeping injection line wont hurt, just makes a mess. and i understand the money thing... took a year to do everything i had to on my rig...

That might be true but the fact the fuel is already pre-heated on the manifold all it needs is a spark to ignite the fuel. You would have a nice un-hood fire. Personally I don't like the idea of diesel fuel pre-heated to 180-190*F which is well above flash point waiting to be ignited.

[02cumminsdude]

Thats a good point Mike, I'm going to suck it up and get this job done as soon as possible also for the fact I'm wasting $4 dollar a gallon fuel on the streets... In the meantime I have my Camaro to drive and will only use the truck for short trips if needed (less than 5-6 miles roundtrip)