Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
Sign in to follow this  
bmac

Hard Starting with FASS 150

Recommended Posts

I just replaced my VP and although it starts much better, there is still the 5-8 seconds of cranking to get her going.... I have read that the fuel pump should not be running while cranking, but I'm pretty darned sure mine is...I don't want to hurt this VP. Should my FASS150 turn off while cranking and then pump once it fires up????I'm jealous of Mike's video where his truck fires in just 3-rotations....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mine hits that quick. it was a little slower before i changed the factory batteries out a couple months back(chasing the starter contact problem our trucks have) if you want, throw a cutoff switch in the cab... but that is an indicative of a torn diaphram...has your ecu been modified? maybe to much timing?

Edited by guesswho512
added question

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just replaced my VP and although it starts much better, there is still the 5-8 seconds of cranking to get her going.... I have read that the fuel pump should not be running while cranking, but I'm pretty darned sure mine is... I don't want to hurt this VP. Should my FASS150 turn off while cranking and then pump once it fires up???? I'm jealous of Mike's video where his truck fires in just 3-rotations....

Ummm... You might check the fuel pressure during cranking...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA

Excessive cranking pressure might be the cause of it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the engine still starting after a bit of an extended crank time? What is the fuel pressure the FASS is putting out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm jealous of Mike's video where his truck fires in just 3-rotations....

3 revs....Wow, My 02 has always hit the instant I turn the key, Only time it cranks a bit more is if it is below 20 degrees and unplugged. 110k miles with OEM batteries yet also. My 05 as with most CR engines crank at least a few revs before firing though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oooooooooooh! That is a really tough break. Sorry to hear about that. I just bought a 2009 Honda Element SC and my daughter backed it into a ditch and did about $1,500 worth of damage. :$: Didn't have the brand new car for a month and dinged it up. :mad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the line pressure from the fass is 25 or higher it pushes the diaphragm on the vp and it will start hard.20 is ok.some rebuilt vp's dont change the overflow valve.That will make a hard start also.My fass does this:Turn key no start,fass will run for 1 or 2 sec. start up fass runs.If i bump my starter ,fass will run for 1 min.

Edited by dually

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mike did a write up on making the pump stop while the key was forward i think...i'd look for thatmy truck cranks right most of the time, sometimes not even a full rev around

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same issue not to long ago. After a phone call to Mopar Man he suggested I check the connector tube o-ring seals. Sure enough a couple of them were dry rotted, cut, etc....replaced them all and been perfect everytime. Worth a look!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My truck starts literally within a second of cranking

MUST BE VERY NICE.... I FEEL LIKE I'M TRYING TO GET A TURBINE RACE CAR STAGED... :biggrin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MUST BE VERY NICE.... I FEEL LIKE I'M TRYING TO GET A TURBINE RACE CAR STAGED... :biggrin:

A couple of questions: 1. Are you getting good smoke while cranking for extended periods during start attempts? 2. If so, have you done a compression check? 3. Just to eliminate the static fuel leakage issue, I would suggest trying a start attempt in the following manner: a. Install a known accurate fuel pressure gauge on the IP schrader valve or some place on the fuel system where you can eye ball it during the start attempt. b. Turn of the ignition key switch being careful to listen for the fuel lift pump to be actuated for approx. .5 sec. as well as noting that the fuel system develops approx. 5 psi give or take fuel pressure. Turn the ignition switch off. c. Without starting the engine, bump the starter to trigger the 20 second fuel lift pump run. d. Once you can see that the fuel pressure has reached max. (it should reach approx. 18 -21 psi) and while the lift pump is STILL running, attempt to start the engine. Does the engine fire right up pretty much instantaneously or does it still require extended starter motor cranking? Do you get an unusually large cloud of diesel smoke upon fire off of the engine when extended cranking is required? I would think this would help to determine whether the problem is fuel pressure/leak down or compression related. If compression is weak, it woulds stand to reason that it takes several revolutions to develop enough cylinder pressure and heat to ignite the diesel fuel PROVIDED you are getting good fuel delivery. A diesel has to have food air, fuel, compression (heat) to start properly. Something is takeing one of these away. Mine starts instantaneously with a mild puff of black smoke and almost no smoke on a cold start. I am proceeding under the presumption that you have the propane disabled for troubleshooting purposes and the Edge turned off. Once and IF you get a proper start sequence, you can add these back into the system individually to determine if they are causing or effecting the problem. Hope this helps get you on the right track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LiveOak is right... you need yo be sure you fuel system is keeping the injection pump feed properly. If the system is leaking down over night and the line are full of air it might prove tough to fire up in the mornings... Stock fuel lines from the factory lift pump back are all suction line so they never leak outwards. But the sure do leak air inwards to allow the fuel line from the tank to drain back. fuel pressure gauge would verify this problem because there would be pressure and then the pump would fall. Watch at 37 seconds on the video you'll see I suck in a air pocket. At this point the test failed i had to go fix the air leak. (Loose fitting) Then I started the test over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



×